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3D Printing Projects - Truck parts and tools

Yes I absolutely hate the whole software subscription models, they are even trying to do that with printers now! You can pay a monthly fee and they will supply all the ink, but if you stop paying your printer stops working! No thanks, I think I'll buy my own ink!

I avoid them everywhere I can. Windows, office, solid modeling, etc.

I don't have a single monthly subscription for software, I always buy the permanent, or at least annual one at a minimum.
I had the permanent office suite from Microsoft and 3 years ago it wiped all my office and asked me to subscribe. I stopped using it until last year when I needed it for my work and I got 1 year for $99.
I am soon switching to Linux platform, I am done with Microsoft
 
The only reason people still use MS Office and Acrobat is because that's what they are familiar with. The alternatives are plenty well capable of cranking out the same documents for >99% of the users. I hate to say it, but even i'm getting old and somewhat set in my ways and I struggle to remain adaptable, but non-tech people over 40 will basically have a complete melt down if you tell them to use anything other than MS Office in their work environment. Most have a bitch fit when you make them use the web versions and demand the local install, the licenses for which are more expensive.
 
The only reason people still use MS Office and Acrobat is because that's what they are familiar with.
A lot of business still uses MS, so people have it on work laptops and such, so no need to install an alternative. For personal machines I just load up Open Office. 90% the same once you learn where stuff is and is better in some aspects (why is Word so horrible at doing layered numbered headings? It goes back to the 1980's!)
I hate the web versions of ms office. Especially outlook. And I’m only 40.
There's no horror quite like Visio in a web browser.
 
I've been drawing files of all outputs in Adobe & Vectric (CNC) along with large art designs with varying practices mixed together for ease of use and effects. I'm using my downtime to teach myself Fusion360 and build some badass work computers. Gone are the days of stacks of disc with a program you owned. Been paying use ransom for years unfortunately.
 
I'm slowly picking away and pulling the mounting points out of the scanned model and converting them to useable geometry. Most of the effort to reduce the number of triangles makes files that load faster in SolidWorks, but loose too much detail to actually use for reference in modeling. So I'm working with the original scan directly.

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An update on my 3D printer experience, and a fair warning to others.....

I am not going to keep printing anything, even PLA, until I hook up an exhaust to outside at a minimum.

I have installed a HEPA/Carbon filter on the exhaust, and only printed PLA thus far, and I still get these side effects. PLA is supposed to be the safest filament to print.

It has been giving us mild headaches and making peoples throats a little strange, like you need to hack up something, it feels like something but nothing you can observe ever comes out, this is with the HEPA filter that supposedly filters over 99% of particles.

I shut it off for a few days and everything went away, then I start printing again and the symptoms come back. Something feels very unhealthy with this stuff. I moved the 3D print setup to the opposite corner upstairs, so I can exhaust it outside. However, not sure if the wife will let me cut a hole in the wall.

If so it may go in the shop and I will cut a hole in the wall there. If I do that, I may put it in an external enclosure, and exhaust that outside. Because Exhaust only the printer exhaust outside won't work when that's off such as with ABS, ASA, PC, PPA, PPS or any other high temp material where the chamber is closed and heated. It also won't work with filament drying as its external to the printer. The printer is not sealed, which is why I haven't printed any of those materials yet even though I have a need and they are sitting there, I am afraid to breathe the much worse fumes, or worse, let my kids breathe the fumes.

This additional enclosure method would also allow anything emitted during filament drying to go outside, I could also prefilter some of the fumes. However, it will take more HVAC energy any time you exhaust something outside while the heat (or AC if you have it) is on.

Here is a link to two options for HEPA filters.

Purchase, or print one...

These guys sell them for multiple printers, just find the one you need.


Or print one of these if you have the Bambu H2 series...then buy the filters. I'm sure you can find similar on makerworld for your printer.


Keep in mind, in my experience, this is not enough, you still get harmful fumes and particles that get out elsewhere, such as purging, etc. The factory enclosure is not sealed, it has other vents in the back. It definitely reduces them.

I have several ideas to exit through a dryer vent on the outside wall, add an external fan, remove one of the flaps for the factory external fan and use that at low, maybe 10 - 20% during heated chamber materials, but I would need to add a blocker for the top vent as that automatically opens any time you turn the exhaust fan on and you shouldn't do that with a heated chamber, you just want to create a tiny negative pressure so fumes go out the exhaust and not anywhere else. If you draw in so much air the internal temp drops it can cause quality issues.

I think the ideal thing is to put a HEPA filter on the exhaust, then put the entire 3D printer setup, it in its own separate enclosure (or room), along with the AMS, filament dryers, etc, and vent that entire enclosure outside. You can have a smaller entry than exit to create a small negative pressure in that entire enclosure. You could also filter the inlet o keep the 3D printer itself cleaner. You could even go as far as routing the entry and exit through an exchanger to reclaim some of the lost HVAC energy you are pumping out.
 
Pulling usable geometry from an STL graphic model and turning it into something real that I can build from is a whole new level of tedious. But I think the results will be much better fit and look when I am done than trying to blindly measure parts with traditional methods when they have complex geometry like this.

The gray circles represent the center location and max height for the gauge without any interference with the stock bezel (surface of the clear plastic cover on the stock cluster assy).

The blue surface is the back plane of the gauge cluser converted into a flat surface (green around edges is the rough geometry copied from the scan).

I still need to add two more dash bezel mounts and connect the dots and make a printable pair of plates that can be bolted together as it is too large for one print on my printer.

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I watch this guy on the YouTube. I just saw he sells 3D printer files for dimple dies and also an oil catch can. As well as some other things. Never though of dimple dies being 3D printed.
 
I watch this guy on the YouTube. I just saw he sells 3D printer files for dimple dies and also an oil catch can. As well as some other things. Never though of dimple dies being 3D printed.
I would guess 3D printed dimple dies can only last a few uses before they need replaced or something?
 
I watch this guy on the YouTube. I just saw he sells 3D printer files for dimple dies and also an oil catch can. As well as some other things. Never though of dimple dies being 3D printed.
lots of bead rolling dies are plastic . depending on use the plastic holds up real good .
 
I jumped over to the dash cam mount on my Toyota to finish it up. Adding the small detail serrated lines to lock rotation required changing nozzles to the smaller 0.2mm size. With a successful test print in PLA, I jumped to ABS since I was going to be outside working, then aired out the house before the wife got home. But I won't be doing that again, it lingered a bit.

I'll need to make a externally ventilated space in the shop that can also be heated to do any more with ABS. I only tried one print since I had it on hand already and needed to wait a day for plain PTEG to arrive.

Today, I've adjusted some settings for better quality and I'm running PTEG.

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Starting a print on the new cup holder design. This one is deeper with a tapered cup holder that better matches common drinks like a 12 oz can, 20 oz bottle, or 20 oz fast food cup, and my favorite coffee cup. I also added better watermarking on the front but kept it easy to use the same style badge if someone wants a custom badge. The filament usage goes up to 750 g from 600 g on the original design, but I think this one matches the 80s door panels better.

I just kicked off my first test print and it is going to run over 30 hours due to the settings biased towards quality this time using variable layer heights to improve details like the top radius surfaces.

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I jumped over to the dash cam mount on my Toyota to finish it up. Adding the small detail serrated lines to lock rotation required changing nozzles to the smaller 0.2mm size. With a successful test print in PLA, I jumped to ABS since I was going to be outside working, then aired out the house before the wife got home. But I won't be doing that again, it lingered a bit.

I'll need to make a externally ventilated space in the shop that can also be heated to do any more with ABS. I only tried one print since I had it on hand already and needed to wait a day for plain PTEG to arrive.

Today, I've adjusted some settings for better quality and I'm running PTEG.
I fought with getting good prints out of PTEG for a couple days and couldn't figure out the issue. Overhangs were just failing but everything else looked great. I finally swapped back from my 0.2mm nozzle to the 0.4mm nozzle and the material started printing perfectly. I think I had a partial plug in the small nozzle and wasn't doing a good job trying to clear it. But I did get good parts finally, just not with the fine level of detail I wanted for this small part.

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Another feature I wanted to add to the badge were tabs that would allow them to snap in place. So I printed a test piece and a blank badge. First attempt didn't work as the tabs were too large on the badge, second attempt was a success with slightly smaller tabs.

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