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3D Printing Projects - Truck parts and tools

PTEG-CF, carbon fiber infused PTEG. The carbon helps produce a better surface finish and slightly stronger material properties than the base PTEG alone. I can get stronger parts printing in ABS or ASA, but I need to add external ventilation or move my printer out to the shop before I can run that material.
 
I plan to run any interior parts out of ASA because of the UV resistance vs ABS. I have designed a angled mount for my Holley ProDash that is a two piece sandwich style. I just need to tweak the dimensions.

However, I am at the point where I won't run PLA or PETG, or any plastic 3D print, without external ventilation either. I don't feel it's safe after getting scratchy throats and mild headaches from PLA even with a HEPA filter on the exhaust. I think a lot of the fumes also come from the purging. I plan to put an enclosed purge container on the back instead of the chute, unless I just put the whole printer inside an enclosure and exhaust that outside.
 
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I plan to run any interior parts out of ASA because of the UV resistance vs ABS. I have designed a angled mount for my Holley ProDash that is a two piece sandwich style. I just need to tweak the dimensions.

However, I am at the point where I won't run PLA or PETG, or any plastic 3D print, without external ventilation either. I don't feel it's safe after getting scratchy throats and mild headaches from PLA even with a HEPA filter on the exhaust. I think a lot of the fumes come from the purging. I plan to put an enclosed purge container on the back instead of the chute.
I don't know if you think the HEPA filters take out anything other than particles. Your throught is scratchy from the fumes, you need to see what can if any filter these out.
Outside ventilation is the only real safe solution.
 
HEPA doesn't remove fumes correct, it also an active carbon filter that supposedly removes fumes as well, but despite this it is still unhealthy from my experience. I am going to exhaust it outside, no matter what material I print. In fact the printer has been off until I exhaust it.
 
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@kennyw Any chance you would revisit your original method back on the first page of this thread? I love this design and how you've iterated it, but in it's current form it is too large for my printer (230x150x150mm area). If you made a version that could be printed in 2 pieces and glued together that would allow me to print it myself on my old printer :)
 
@kennyw Any chance you would revisit your original method back on the first page of this thread? I love this design and how you've iterated it, but in it's current form it is too large for my printer (230x150x150mm area). If you made a version that could be printed in 2 pieces and glued together that would allow me to print it myself on my old printer :)
That is easy enough. But it helps that the new version was based more square and less round.

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@kennyw Any chance you would revisit your original method back on the first page of this thread? I love this design and how you've iterated it, but in it's current form it is too large for my printer (230x150x150mm area). If you made a version that could be printed in 2 pieces and glued together that would allow me to print it myself on my old printer :)
Try it out and let me know how it works for you.

 
I went back through and organized everything better on that latest version. I have also added a version that is a map pocket without cup holders.
Screenshot 2026-02-06 230750.png

v5.0 - one-piece map pocket cup holders

This is a one piece design, 250.5 mm length on the long side and the best print results if it fits on your printer bed.

Plate 1: v5.0 MPCH, left and right w/ small cup holder, plus 4x dowel pins

Plate 2: v5.0 MPCH, left and right w/ large cup holder, plus 4x dowel pins

v5.1 - two-piece map pocket cup holders

If your printer bed is too small for the one-piece design, you can now print in two pieces and join them with dowel pins and glue.

Plate 1: v5.1 MPCH, left w/ small cup holder, plus 5x dowel pins

Plate 2: v5.1 MPCH, right w/ small cup holder, plus 5x dowel pins

Plate 3: v5.1 MPCH, left w/ large cup holder, plus 5x dowel pins

Plate 4: v5.1 MPCH, right w/ large cup holder, plus 5x dowel pins

v5.2 - map pocket without cup holders

Plate 1: v5.2 MP without cup holders (2X)


v5 - badges

Plate 1: Squarebody CHOP SHOP Bowtie

Plate 2: GMC Sierra Classic

Plate 3: CHOP SHOP

Plate 4: Chevy Bowtie

Plate 5: blank for custom text or design
 
I went back through and organized everything better on that latest version. I have also added a version that is a map pocket without cup holders.
View attachment 521735

v5.0 - one-piece map pocket cup holders

This is a one piece design, 250.5 mm length on the long side and the best print results if it fits on your printer bed.

Plate 1: v5.0 MPCH, left and right w/ small cup holder, plus 4x dowel pins

Plate 2: v5.0 MPCH, left and right w/ large cup holder, plus 4x dowel pins

v5.1 - two-piece map pocket cup holders

If your printer bed is too small for the one-piece design, you can now print in two pieces and join them with dowel pins and glue.

Plate 1: v5.1 MPCH, left w/ small cup holder, plus 5x dowel pins

Plate 2: v5.1 MPCH, right w/ small cup holder, plus 5x dowel pins

Plate 3: v5.1 MPCH, left w/ large cup holder, plus 5x dowel pins

Plate 4: v5.1 MPCH, right w/ large cup holder, plus 5x dowel pins

v5.2 - map pocket without cup holders

Plate 1: v5.2 MP without cup holders (2X)


v5 - badges

Plate 1: Squarebody CHOP SHOP Bowtie

Plate 2: GMC Sierra Classic

Plate 3: CHOP SHOP

Plate 4: Chevy Bowtie

Plate 5: blank for custom text or design
Care to modify how you uploaded the stl files? It looks like you uploaded them as multiple pieces in one stl file and for whatever reason the slicer I'm using does not like it. I was expecting more of a 5.1_MP_LH.stl and 5.1_CH_Lg_LH.stl to be able to load them individually and move them around as unique objects in the slicer. As it is now, I can't do anything with it :(

It merges them into some odd single object. This is my attempt to open v5.1_MPCH_RH_Large.stl
1770516165938.png

1770516197218.png
 
When I view the uploads in the 3D viewer it looks to be one piece as well. So maybe I'm missing something as someone not in the Bambu ecosystem that enables splitting items?
1770516566538.png
 
Care to modify how you uploaded the stl files? It looks like you uploaded them as multiple pieces in one stl file and for whatever reason the slicer I'm using does not like it. I was expecting more of a 5.1_MP_LH.stl and 5.1_CH_Lg_LH.stl to be able to load them individually and move them around as unique objects in the slicer. As it is now, I can't do anything with it :(

It merges them into some odd single object. This is my attempt to open v5.1_MPCH_RH_Large.stl
I can do that. Give me a few minutes. Although, I may modify things differently to look like what I just did for the 77-80 version.
 
I have updated all of the files with some updates. Try again.
That's a slick update on sticking the two parts together. Thanks for sharing it!

After some more poking around I figured out what I was missing with the files. I joined the 3d printer scene back in 2016 and everything then was stl files. I'm just a hobbyist and boot up my printer a few times a year and haven't stayed up to date as the technology as progressed. The stuff you've uploaded is 3MF and is a newer format than I am used to and contains different info than the old stl files did. My old slicer software only works with stl and I couldn't decipher how to break down what you uploaded into individual stl files.

For anyone else not used to the 3MF format you can load it up in Bambu Studio and export individual parts as stl files to print them out one by one.

1770566232084.png
 
Pulling usable geometry from an STL graphic model and turning it into something real that I can build from is a whole new level of tedious. But I think the results will be much better fit and look when I am done than trying to blindly measure parts with traditional methods when they have complex geometry like this.

The gray circles represent the center location and max height for the gauge without any interference with the stock bezel (surface of the clear plastic cover on the stock cluster assy).

The blue surface is the back plane of the gauge cluser converted into a flat surface (green around edges is the rough geometry copied from the scan).

I still need to add two more dash bezel mounts and connect the dots and make a printable pair of plates that can be bolted together as it is too large for one print on my printer.

View attachment 521045

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Very cool. When the stock design is completed it would be interesting to add other mounting points for a b&m tranny temp guage.
 

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