Not sure the wife would find the humor in that!
CK5
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5.3L Toyota 1994 FJZ80 Land cruiser
- Thread starter ssyork
- Start date
Here is the chunk I had to cut off the 4l60. To make this kit work a 2wd 4l60 is required because it is longer than the 4wd one.
Here is the 1 3/8" freeze plug for the egr block off. Also the cut down evap solenoid. I used some right stuff on both to make sure they are sealed up. Not as bling as what's available, but for under $1 it works for me. And will be under the votec plastic cover anyways.
Here is the improved racing baffle and new GM oil pan kit that came in today. Stock setup 
Difference in tops, slits and fins for oil drain back
Difference in bottom of baffles. 3 trap doors.
Installed. Nice fit and finish.
Difference in tops, slits and fins for oil drain back
Difference in bottom of baffles. 3 trap doors.
Installed. Nice fit and finish.
Here are some of the truck pan vs the f body pan pics.
Does anybody know if kert @ diy4x is still making the bling diff breather setups? They're not listed on his website.
I was looking for them a month or so ago as well. I ended up ordering the curries....
Last I saw he hasn't been. Do the Can-am bellows, super simple and cheap.
Made some great progress today. Got the motor mounts welded in! I used the advance adapters universal ls mounts and I think they worked out great. I cut the engine side down so they would fit between the frame rails. Then had to cut them down some more because I flipped the frame side upside down. I did that because I had the engine sitting nice and low and I could get more area to weld on the frame mount upside down. It was really close from frame rail to rail so I pushed it to the passenger side which left a 1/8" gap between the mount and drivers frame rail. Instead of enlarging the engine mount hole, I made a plate that I spot welded to the back of the mount. Pulled the engine back out and got them welded in solid. I'm going to add a guesset to the top of the mount still. I also clearanced the firewall on the passenger side. I have it sitting low enough that the a/c lines mount is only 3/8" at most off the frame rail. If these mounts flex side to side much I might have to notch the frame a little. The power steering clears great on the other side. I had to bend the lines around a little but not a big deal 
Here is the engine side mounts cut down
Thanks I will probably go that route then.
I read up some on the bellows and some guys are having problems with Highway and big Altitude changes unless they poke or cut a hole in them. Did you put a pin hole in yours?
Looking good. Get it done so we can hit some trails this summer since we were not able to do it last summer. Did you finally end up selling the s10?
Yeah, I cut a little slit in mine with a razor after reading same things. From my reading the can-am ones were the most pliable ones too. I guess some are pretty stiff.
Here is where I got mine but I paid $5.33 each in 2013: http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/can-am-rubber-bellow-705400352-part.html
Here is where I got mine but I paid $5.33 each in 2013: http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/can-am-rubber-bellow-705400352-part.html
I'm working on it! The S10 is sitting in a pile of snow right now. Figured I would hit the sale again as soon as it's nice.
Thanks, the front diff, tranny and t-case are all easy, but will probably use on on the rear.
Got some more done today. I modified the stock sending unit so it would hold a twin turbo supra fuel pump. Had to notch the bottom out and run some new wires. Finished it off with some stainless clamps for good measure. If someone is looking for an intank pump for a LS swap I think this would be easy to adapt to the Chevy sending unit also. It's just two post on the top, negative & positive. I also put on the 14mm inverted flare to - 6AN fitting so I can use the stock fuel supply line. Sounds easy enough, but was hard to find. It's listed for some ricer car. Others guys have been making all new lines or cutting the hard line and putting a new fitting then reflaring it. I found this fitting, it was $20, but makes life way easy and cheaper than buying all new or a flare tool. 
Rerouted the gas tank vent line. Used to goto a charcoal canister, but we won't be running that anymore. There was already a circle on the back of the insert like it was made for this!
Between a birthday party Friday night and soccer games Saturday and Sunday there wasn't much time left for working. I did get the fuelab filter mounted and the line made from the stock fuel supply line to the filter. 
Got the engine set in hopefully for the last time, second pic is of how close it is between the pwr steering pump and gear box. I flipped the frame side engine mounts upside down so I had more to weld. Then had to cut the end of the motor side down so it would fit between the frame rails. Other swaps I've seen they sit the engine side mounts down to the frame rail, but I wanted mine to set down as low as possible. Got it down another inch or so. The red hoses are for the factory rear heater. 
