How are those wheels? I was thinking of that exact one but in an eight lug for my F350 tow rig.
CK5
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70 Jimmy--Rusty Rebuild
- Thread starter toomany
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They seem like they are a quality piece. Nice finish on all of them. Will be a while before I use them so no comment on durability just yet.
The rest of my wheels came in. Will need to pick up two "open" center caps for the front. Should be able to get my tires mounted next time I'm out there.
Picked this up for a steal too. Not going to use it in the Jimmy, may end up under my 02 Duramax. It's a 94 Ford Dana60. Ball joint, high pinion, 4.10's. Came from a tow truck at the yard my friend works at. Finding SRW hubs is a little easier for a Ford axle, but I've already got a line on a guy who wants to trade my dualy's for his singles. Paid $130 for it....yes, one hundred thirty dollars. May try flipping it for some cash or hold on to it for a future project, either way it was too good of a deal to pass up.
Picked this up for a steal too. Not going to use it in the Jimmy, may end up under my 02 Duramax. It's a 94 Ford Dana60. Ball joint, high pinion, 4.10's. Came from a tow truck at the yard my friend works at. Finding SRW hubs is a little easier for a Ford axle, but I've already got a line on a guy who wants to trade my dualy's for his singles. Paid $130 for it....yes, one hundred thirty dollars. May try flipping it for some cash or hold on to it for a future project, either way it was too good of a deal to pass up.
I feel like they are a good updated version of the older MT Classics. Most everything now is either black or has stupid offset/backspacing.
Forgot to add in the previous post that my lugnuts won't be here till Tuesday so I can't put them on till then.
Those rims seem like good quality. I bought a set when they started selling the current ''III" version. It's been a few years I guess. The truck hasn't been used a whole lot, but has spent this whole time outdoors and they've only been washed a time or two. They have lost some shine, but still look good.
Got a few hours out in the barn last night. Not much got done though. Put the tires on the wheels. Lug nuts came in, either need a thin wall socket, or longer one...I bought some of the longest ones I could find that weren't super cheap.
Tires went on without hassle. They should clear fairly well as they are pretty much a 33x12.5, just the metric equivilent.
Drill a few holes in the cab floor to finish bolting down the transmission cover. Before I finish welding the floor in I want to get the brass door wedges installed, so that'll be next on the list.
Tires went on without hassle. They should clear fairly well as they are pretty much a 33x12.5, just the metric equivilent.
Drill a few holes in the cab floor to finish bolting down the transmission cover. Before I finish welding the floor in I want to get the brass door wedges installed, so that'll be next on the list.
Good to see progress dispite the really crappy weather we have been having. I hope to head or to my shop tomorrow.
When it's single digit temps I don't really like to go out there unless I can be out there all day. Woodstove heats the place up, but it takes awhile. When it's 20* or above, it does just fine, gets it up into the 60's.
Wish I could have a stove in my shop. Insurance won’t allow it. Hopefully next year I can insulate the walls and get Nat gas heater and heat all winter. Till then the electric and torpedo get the job done
Tracked down a thin wall socket. It works, but just barely. I think I'm going to get some spline drive lug nuts as it's a little too close for my liking right now.
This is at "ride height". Minus the tire being off the ground ofcourse. I believe the front is a tad higher on the stands right now too. Moving the axle back 1" was the right choice and about the perfect amount.
This is at "ride height". Minus the tire being off the ground ofcourse. I believe the front is a tad higher on the stands right now too. Moving the axle back 1" was the right choice and about the perfect amount.
Installed my door wedges. The new quarters had holes already drilled for them. Passenger side was spot on, drivers side the holes were a touch too far appart. Had to drill both doors for their piece as they are both truck doors apparently.
Shimmed the two body mounts behind the drivers door. Not sure if it is the replacement metal, my frame or what, but I put almost 1/2" on the first one and close to 3/8" in the second one. From what I've read about shimming these, that's not uncommon, just found it odd. The shims opened up the door opening so the gap at the top is acceptable now (top of door rubbed on quarter before). Bottom ofcourse got closer, but I should be able to adjust that out at the hinge side.
Cut a strip to start filling in between the stepup panel and the cab floor. Used some of what I cut off the end of the floor when I originaly fit it, so it's same thickness as both pieces. Sprayed some weld through primer on it before getting it in.
Reminder of what I started with. Black thing in the middle is a magnet to hold the filler.
Test fitting.
And welded in. I don't claim to be the best welder, but they look better in person than what this picture shows. Not sure why it's out of focus here.
Ordered some stuff from Summit this morning. Should be here tomorrow (actually today 2/15). Will wait till box shows up before telling everything I bought.
Shimmed the two body mounts behind the drivers door. Not sure if it is the replacement metal, my frame or what, but I put almost 1/2" on the first one and close to 3/8" in the second one. From what I've read about shimming these, that's not uncommon, just found it odd. The shims opened up the door opening so the gap at the top is acceptable now (top of door rubbed on quarter before). Bottom ofcourse got closer, but I should be able to adjust that out at the hinge side.
Cut a strip to start filling in between the stepup panel and the cab floor. Used some of what I cut off the end of the floor when I originaly fit it, so it's same thickness as both pieces. Sprayed some weld through primer on it before getting it in.
Reminder of what I started with. Black thing in the middle is a magnet to hold the filler.
Test fitting.
And welded in. I don't claim to be the best welder, but they look better in person than what this picture shows. Not sure why it's out of focus here.
Ordered some stuff from Summit this morning. Should be here tomorrow (actually today 2/15). Will wait till box shows up before telling everything I bought.
I love these blazers but apparently if I ever plan on having one I better either budget to pay someone to do all this or find a mint condition rust free one cuz I have no patience for all this body work you are doing. This will be one nice rig when you are done.
I took the easy way out by just replacing all the bad parts. Cost more up front (about 5k between panels/supplies from what I remember), but even putting that towards a cleaner rig in my area wouldn't get me into something very clean. Could have gone out west for one, but I'd still be into it for more than I am now.
Yeah I grew up in WI and everything is really rusty back that way. Out west here though even the stuff people claim as rusty is still nice to work on and not very bad at all.
Ups showed up.
Somehow I only ordered one open center cap, guess I'll have to remember to put another one on my next order.
Lugnuts arrived too. Should have no problems with these ones.
Big news/purchase was the Holley Sniper system. Was a toss up between this and the FiTech. Decided on the Holley for a few reasons. Have heard of people having better luck with this one over the FiTech and any problems that come up, Holley has a better support system. I'd like to think Holley will be around in a few years should the need for parts come up. Last I looked, FiTech didn't offer timing control (believe they do now though). The FiTech is slightly lower priced, but in the big picture it's just a drop in the bucket.
I wanted EFI for varrious reasons. Drivablitiy is the main one (have heard the Holley is a bit better out of the box on this too). I'm not counting on it, but I'd imagine milage will be better over a carb too. The self tuning is what really brought me in. Dealing with carb issues tuning my buddies 454 in his 68 K20 made me want that. While I don't expect it to be just bolt on and go, I hope it's somewhat trouble free.
Everything came packed in a compact(ish) box. Did have to buy an extra harness for the distributor for timing control.
Nice foam surround holding the throttle body and a few sensors. Rest of wiring was undetneith.
Went with the "classic gold" finish. Still sort of looks like a Holley carb. Even though I'm upgrading quite a few things to modern equipment (brakes, wheels/tires, efi) there are some things I am particular about on the looks. Once the aircleaner goes on, it should blend in nicely.
Even though it's a ways off from needing it, it was one of the bigger items I still needed. Body work, wiring, interior, etc... still need to be done. Hope to get out again tomorrow to finish some of the welding on the floor.
Somehow I only ordered one open center cap, guess I'll have to remember to put another one on my next order.
Lugnuts arrived too. Should have no problems with these ones.
Big news/purchase was the Holley Sniper system. Was a toss up between this and the FiTech. Decided on the Holley for a few reasons. Have heard of people having better luck with this one over the FiTech and any problems that come up, Holley has a better support system. I'd like to think Holley will be around in a few years should the need for parts come up. Last I looked, FiTech didn't offer timing control (believe they do now though). The FiTech is slightly lower priced, but in the big picture it's just a drop in the bucket.
I wanted EFI for varrious reasons. Drivablitiy is the main one (have heard the Holley is a bit better out of the box on this too). I'm not counting on it, but I'd imagine milage will be better over a carb too. The self tuning is what really brought me in. Dealing with carb issues tuning my buddies 454 in his 68 K20 made me want that. While I don't expect it to be just bolt on and go, I hope it's somewhat trouble free.
Everything came packed in a compact(ish) box. Did have to buy an extra harness for the distributor for timing control.
Nice foam surround holding the throttle body and a few sensors. Rest of wiring was undetneith.
Went with the "classic gold" finish. Still sort of looks like a Holley carb. Even though I'm upgrading quite a few things to modern equipment (brakes, wheels/tires, efi) there are some things I am particular about on the looks. Once the aircleaner goes on, it should blend in nicely.
Even though it's a ways off from needing it, it was one of the bigger items I still needed. Body work, wiring, interior, etc... still need to be done. Hope to get out again tomorrow to finish some of the welding on the floor.
Started tonight by getting the rear wheels/tires on. Only put one front one on because I'm still working up in that area where the firewall/floor meet and I can use the extra space. Only put it on because I wanted to see how it looked (and I only have one "open" cap). Still on the jackstsands, but one step closer to roller now.
One more shot of the clearance behind the front wheel around the caliper. The last couple I took, the wheel wasn't seated all the way against the rotor.
With the 88+ axle in the rear, the track width is pretty close to the same front and rear. Front is a bit wider still. I blame that on the slip on rotors, normal pinned style would be narrower. Tires have just a hair of stickout from the fenders.
Finished welding the rear seam of the cab floor. That seemed to stiffen the tub up some as my doors close better now. Before I had to lift the passenger one a touch to get it to shut smoothly. Started on the front seem under the dash too. Only got a few tacks in before calling it a day on that though.
Last, I put the tie rod on the front axle. Didn't really clean it up much, just shot some paint on it. Figured if I do need to move it anytime soon, having the front wheels linked together will make it easier. This picture also shows how much dust has settled on parts of the truck...the axle is painted with the same color as the tie rod.
One more shot of the clearance behind the front wheel around the caliper. The last couple I took, the wheel wasn't seated all the way against the rotor.
With the 88+ axle in the rear, the track width is pretty close to the same front and rear. Front is a bit wider still. I blame that on the slip on rotors, normal pinned style would be narrower. Tires have just a hair of stickout from the fenders.
Finished welding the rear seam of the cab floor. That seemed to stiffen the tub up some as my doors close better now. Before I had to lift the passenger one a touch to get it to shut smoothly. Started on the front seem under the dash too. Only got a few tacks in before calling it a day on that though.
Last, I put the tie rod on the front axle. Didn't really clean it up much, just shot some paint on it. Figured if I do need to move it anytime soon, having the front wheels linked together will make it easier. This picture also shows how much dust has settled on parts of the truck...the axle is painted with the same color as the tie rod.
Jumped on a deal I couldn't pass up.
Picked up a short block fresh from the machine shop. Fresh .030 overbore, .010/.010 crank, new cam/rod/main bearings. Guy was asking $600, traded another short block I had (he goes through, machines, re-sells them) and $500. For that price I couldn't have one of my blocks machined and buy the new pistons/bearings. I really wanted to do a roller motor, but I may hold off on that now. Not sure I'll spend the money for the retro fit cam parts.
My heads and intake also got dropped off earlier this week. Nothing special, just some stock 062 Vortecs and Performer RPM intake. Heads were at the machine shop recently getting checked for cracks and skim cut to flatten the surfaces. They need a good cleaning, but only have a few 1000 miles on then since then.
Picked up a short block fresh from the machine shop. Fresh .030 overbore, .010/.010 crank, new cam/rod/main bearings. Guy was asking $600, traded another short block I had (he goes through, machines, re-sells them) and $500. For that price I couldn't have one of my blocks machined and buy the new pistons/bearings. I really wanted to do a roller motor, but I may hold off on that now. Not sure I'll spend the money for the retro fit cam parts.
My heads and intake also got dropped off earlier this week. Nothing special, just some stock 062 Vortecs and Performer RPM intake. Heads were at the machine shop recently getting checked for cracks and skim cut to flatten the surfaces. They need a good cleaning, but only have a few 1000 miles on then since then.
Finished welding the floor in along the front edge. Made some filler strips to cover the gap.
Up next will be dealing with the lower A-pillars. Can see the light shining through in the last two pictures. The passenger side is worse, but both sides need attetion. Most likely I'll make my own patch pannels for these areas.
Also started pulling the dash apart. It was all coming out eventually, but I mainly wanted to check the condition of the lower windshield and rest of firewall areas. Have a few small spots that need fixed, but nothing major considering the condition the rest of the truck was in.
Will need to order rocker boxes and their parts before too long. Once those are in I can move away from the major body work for awhile.
Up next will be dealing with the lower A-pillars. Can see the light shining through in the last two pictures. The passenger side is worse, but both sides need attetion. Most likely I'll make my own patch pannels for these areas.
Also started pulling the dash apart. It was all coming out eventually, but I mainly wanted to check the condition of the lower windshield and rest of firewall areas. Have a few small spots that need fixed, but nothing major considering the condition the rest of the truck was in.
Will need to order rocker boxes and their parts before too long. Once those are in I can move away from the major body work for awhile.
It's starting to become a K5 again. Very nice!
