Block got a little cosmetic work done tonight.
CK5
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'72 K5 - AJ's Gray Matter Build
- Thread starter AJs72K5
- Start date
Amazing how neon it looks when freshBlock got a little cosmetic work done tonight.
Damn that's pretty
It was still wet when I took the pic.
Uh-OH!!!!
Looks like the can says it's only rated up to 500HP!!! That's not going to be good enough....
-G
Dammit! I picked up the wrong can.
Just put a small block of wood under the gas pedal..... you don't need that extra 100HP anyway.
-G
Finally showed up....
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Finally showed up....
Specs?
Race Rite BB-O. 115cc combustion. Big oval intake ports. 270 intake volume. 2.25" intake, 1.88" exhaust valves. 1.550 Roller Valve Spring – GA 1000, 0.700 Maximum Lift
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Nice.
6/4/16 - The long block - Got a good days work at the shop yesterday.
Started the day off feeling kinda studly.
Copper coated the head gaskets, set the heads in, and torqued them down. Long block done. Looks damn good.
Solid rollers
Poured some ZDDP over the cam and lifter galley. Added some assembly lube and dropped in the lifters
Ordered up some lash caps to protect the valve stems from mushrooming. Those'll be here in a couple of days, then I can put on the rockers and measure for pushrods.
Started the day off feeling kinda studly.
Copper coated the head gaskets, set the heads in, and torqued them down. Long block done. Looks damn good.
Solid rollers
Poured some ZDDP over the cam and lifter galley. Added some assembly lube and dropped in the lifters
Ordered up some lash caps to protect the valve stems from mushrooming. Those'll be here in a couple of days, then I can put on the rockers and measure for pushrods.
Don't give me any credit, you picked everything out yourself, I just helped confirm your dynamic compression was right with the heads, cam, pistons and rods. But the engine is all you, you picked the cam, the heads, already had the intake, etc. You really wanted a solid roller, which is actually pretty mild for a solid roller, but should run real good.
10 lb increments is a little overkill, that is a lot ot torqueing! 3 steps I what I usually do, from the middle out. I would of gone 40, 75, 110 after snugging them up with a 3/8" ratchet, which is kind of like 4 steps I guess.
I agree with beags, I think the dyno sim is wrong too, the torque is probably a little high on the low side and your hp may be good or might be a tad low, depends on the tune.
Although with that cam and intended RPM range I don't think the heads are a limiting factor, they flow enough for almost 700 hp and should have very high port velocity. If you were revving it higher that might be different.
You would of done the same thing at the track, 38 degrees is where I had my old small block at after a few test passes. My uncle always says, "you can't take a dyno down the track". Plus way too many people dyno stuff and then install it in the car completely different such as the headers, air cleaner, fuel system, exhaust, etc. Dynos are great if you want to learn numbers, but tuning it in the car at the track is what really matters, and thats what you feel. Plus with his EFI being closed loop his A/F is going to be pretty darn close.
Forget old school snug down ring compressors. These guys are the way to go. Ridiculously easy and way smoother. Wish I woulda stopped to get a pic of one going in...
Buttoned it up with the timing cover, oil pan, and freeze plugs.
Now we wait on Brodix.
Those ring compressors are awesome aren't they? I switched over to using them too, I like the total seal units, a long gradual taper, I ruined a set of rings using one of those wrinkle band compressors, scratched the rings all up because of wear at the ends where the clamp connects. I shot that thing, literaly, blew it to pieces with a Henry lever action. The thing is, if the piston to valve clearance on that motor wasn't too low, so I had to take it back apart again, I would of never known the rings were damaged. Then you try one of those one piece tapered units and start laughing at how easy it is.
Speaking of that, did you check your P-V clearance?
Copper coated the head gaskets, set the heads in, and torqued them down. Long block done. Looks damn good.
Poured some ZDDP over the cam and lifter galley. Added some assembly lube and dropped in the lifters
Ordered up some lash caps to protect the valve stems from mushrooming. Those'll be here in a couple of days, then I can put on the rockers and measure for pushrods.
The engine looks awesome! Those timing bolts are going to rust, nevermind, you live in TX.
The ZDDP isn't required with the roller cam, but can only help.
I don't think you need lash caps these days, I would only run them if you need them for clearance.
Did you check your camshaft endplay?
BTW, if you have any trouble getting the rockers on the center of the valve, the Dart adjustable guideplates work awesome. Obivously the corrrect pushrod length will get your rocker geometry correct. But sometimes you can't get the roller centered on the tip with both rockers in the pair because the quidplate is one piece. Well, the Dart guideplates are two piece and they work excellent. Highly recommend them.
Also, don't forget to check the pushrods for clearance to the head, sometimes you get some that rub and you need to clearance the head with a die grinder.
The engine is looking great AJ, nice work, it's going to run real good! You buy extra tires yet?
The engine looks awesome! Those timing bolts are going to rust, nevermind, you live in TX.
In Texas......he should spend more time worrying about getting a snorkel that will work on that setup!!!
-G
Speaking of that, did you check your P-V clearance?
The engine is looking great AJ, nice work, it's going to run real good! You buy extra tires yet?
No we didn't check the piston / valve clearance yet. That's on the list for this weekend.
I'm planning on pretty much blowing all the rubber off of these tires. Already have the next set in mind.
Big, smoky burnouts pretty much guarantee a gold medal podium finish for MPS....
-G
-G
Did you check the cam endplay? Might need to shim the buttom or file a little off of it for it to be perfect. Or you can always dent the timing cover a tiny bit.
What kind of tires you going to?
We did check the cam end play. It was just under .010"
Either BFG MTs or ATs possibly in the 37" flavor. Still deciding on wheels. The 16" wheels will get sold for either 17s or 18s.
S
Sounds perfect, the annoying thing about the cam endplay is guessing how much the gasket will compress when you tighten everything down.
Tires sound nice, those will be expensive to roast.
Sounds perfect, the annoying thing about the cam endplay is guessing how much the gasket will compress when you tighten everything down.
Tires sound nice, those will be expensive to roast.
