big pappa b
3/4 ton status
I want you to post the video of you trying to install the distributor with that bar in place at the firewall 
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Why? The dizzy gets installed FIRST, then the motor gets installed.... You want me to build a little trapdoor on the inside (behind the dash)???? 
-G
-G
Great progress there bud. Always nice to check in on your build and see some cool stuff going on. Props as always. 
Great progress there bud. Always nice to check in on your build and see some cool stuff going on. Props as always.
Cough...... billet wiper knobs....cough.....billet headlamp switch knob.... [cough].... billet radio knobs.... [achoo!] billet OEM-style dash bezel.
Oh, hey Rob.... nice to see you. Anything coming out of that HAAS yet?
-G
Cough...... billet wiper knobs....cough.....billet headlamp switch knob.... [cough].... billet radio knobs.... [achoo!] billet OEM-style dash bezel.
Oh, hey Rob.... nice to see you. Anything coming out of that HAAS yet?
-G
Soon. I have 15 things going on all at once. Have the air system 95% finished, just have one more section of tube to get installed and then test for leaks. If that all goes well I'll be firing it up and getting the coolant tank filled. Picked up coolant today. It was suposed to be deliver Monday. Finally called and just picked it up today. I have only five more days to build our materials shed out of the machine pallet it came on.
It's a super heavy duty pallet perfect for a shed base. Will end up being a 6 1/2' X 10 1/2' x probably 7' tall walls with a barn style roof. I have our new shop lights to wire and hook up and hang still too. The list is LOOOONG and I have 10 days off to get it ALL done in, actually only 5 left as of tomorrow Thursday. Not much play time on the mill yet, but I'm working toward nothing but machine time. If I stop and just play with the mill, NOTHING will get done. Priorities are a MUST! I have every item you mentioned on my Parts to make list already
. Keep adding to it if you like too! I have plenty of ideas but always welcome more. I could keep countless cnc mills running with all the parts I want to make.
Greg,
My 02 duramax has 4 wheel disc's and factory Hydroboost... that may be another option.
But then again it almost looks identical to the one in my k20thingy
My 02 duramax has 4 wheel disc's and factory Hydroboost... that may be another option.
But then again it almost looks identical to the one in my k20thingy
MC clearance
How about a rolled tube spanning across the top of the engine adjacent to the firewall? Harbor Freight tube roller + SWAG Offroad braces = greater MC clearance. Just a thought.
You can search for engine cages for inspiration (racedezert, dezertrangers, dezertsilverados).
How about a rolled tube spanning across the top of the engine adjacent to the firewall? Harbor Freight tube roller + SWAG Offroad braces = greater MC clearance. Just a thought.
You can search for engine cages for inspiration (racedezert, dezertrangers, dezertsilverados).
How about a rolled tube spanning across the top of the engine adjacent to the firewall? Harbor Freight tube roller + SWAG Offroad braces = greater MC clearance. Just a thought.
You can search for engine cages for inspiration (racedezert, dezertrangers, dezertsilverados).
After 5 years of lurking my thread inspired your 1st post? I'm honored.
I've put the brake solution on hold for now. I've got a couple of workable options that don't require me to extensively modify the existing cagework. At this point I'm trying to stay focused on only one thing... Getting the front suspension completed. That includes upper shock mounts, a working idler steering setup, and final bracketry for all heims. Also on that list is full cycling tests in all possible travel and steering positions.
It's a tall order, but that's where my brainpower is being focused for next couple of weeks.
-G
By the way....
Valve overs come off just fine with the new engine cage tubing..
-G
Valve overs come off just fine with the new engine cage tubing..
-G
focus mode: macro.
just sayin' :P~
just sayin' :P~
Those hands are to pretty and clean to be working on this rig....
Maybe your wife was holding the valve cover while you worried about the focus..... Yeah, that's it.
Maybe your wife was holding the valve cover while you worried about the focus..... Yeah, that's it.
After 5 years of lurking my thread inspired your 1st post? I'm honored.
I've put the brake solution on hold for now. I've got a couple of workable options that don't require me to extensively modify the existing cagework. At this point I'm trying to stay focused on only one thing... Getting the front suspension completed. That includes upper shock mounts, a working idler steering setup, and final bracketry for all heims. Also on that list is full cycling tests in all possible travel and steering positions.
It's a tall order, but that's where my brainpower is being focused for next couple of weeks.
-G
Lurking? I much prefer "silently observing."
I understand finishing the front suspension. When you do revisit the engine cage, maybe check out Sandking's "Here's a 'Not Your Typical' 4wd Blazer Build" on 67-72chevytrucks. He's able to fit a MC w/ vac boost.
BTW - love the lines on your rollcage.
Is there a setting like that on an iPhone?
Those hands are to pretty and clean to be working on this rig....
Maybe your wife was holding the valve cover while you worried about the focus..... Yeah, that's it.
My hands always look good at the start of the garage day... And I do wear Mechanix gloves when I work on tubing and metal plate.
Lurking? I much prefer "silently observing."
I understand finishing the front suspension. When you do revisit the engine cage, maybe check out Sandking's "Here's a 'Not Your Typical' 4wd Blazer Build" on 67-72chevytrucks. He's able to fit a MC w/ vac boost.
BTW - love the lines on your rollcage.
I think I know the build you are referring to. It's the ochre-colored one that was actually offered for sale a few months ago IIRC?
Nice, very nice... I remember bookmarking that build so I could watch the progress.-G
Three things
Looks good
Tube clamps if needed down the road for the over engine cross bar, I think your fine myself.
Wilwood 7:1 reverse swing pedal assembly and manual brakes with brakeman calipers on some bling mounts.
Edit 4 things;
I just cost you about $3,000 but you will thank me on the first good hard stop after the pads are beded in
Looks good
Tube clamps if needed down the road for the over engine cross bar, I think your fine myself.
Wilwood 7:1 reverse swing pedal assembly and manual brakes with brakeman calipers on some bling mounts.
Edit 4 things;
I just cost you about $3,000 but you will thank me on the first good hard stop after the pads are beded in
Three things
Looks good
Tube clamps if needed down the road for the over engine cross bar, I think your fine myself.
Wilwood 7:1 reverse swing pedal assembly and manual brakes with brakeman calipers on some bling mounts.
Edit 4 things;
I just cost you about $3,000 but you will thank me on the first good hard stop after the pads are beded in
Brandon,
As always, thanks for your input. I'll definitely look into that. Any chance I can run my existing dual-piston Ford calipers with your Wilwood pedal (and MC)? It would be a lot simpler if I didn't have to re-engineer the caliper and eXaXt mounts that I already have....
-G
2013.09.10- UPDATE! - MORE PHB ISSUES...
Win some, lose some.
I have been systematically going through all of my cobbled-together link mounts and replacing them with "real" beefy usable mounts that will be part of the final front 3-link solution...
Some were wins: The frame-side PHB mount, and the lower DS link mount have been transformed into their final iterations (hopefully) with very little drama... however, as I started to move to the PS to rework the axle-side PHB mount and build it into a single large mount that integrated the lower link mount, things started to get dicey.
The following images will illustrate the struggles, and what I hope will be a solid solution....
Opening shot: Here is the lower plate being re-cut to integrate the lower link mount.
Here's a shot of the new plate as it was put into position on the passenger side.... yes, I managed to get a speed hole on this side as well!
This mount seemed like it was going to be slam-dunk. Unfortunately, what I didn't notice was that the PHB mount (when finally placed into double-shear mount) does not have the clearance it needs to allow the PS to droop down more than a few inches (while simultaneously turning hard right on the draglink) before a collision occurs.... take a look. You can see how the draglink is poised to collide with the mounting brackets unless something is changed:
The long plate that supported the PHB (and the two relatively long mounting tabs) were cut-down in an effort to gain clearance during droop...
Unfortunately, this only gains a few additional inches of droop but does not allow the draglink to move under that PHB mount the way I need it to. It was becoming clear that the axle-side PHB mount simply cannot be supported from underneath..... instead, I needed to think more creatively about a way to effectively "hang" that heim from a mount from above.
So... it was time to cut a substantial amount of the plate away to create the necessary clearance. From this point I would need to envision a new way to build an overhead double-shear mount:
To drive these loads back into the pumpkin area and support the PHB adequately, I built a single large vertical tab, and then triangulated a second plate to join with it..... as seen here:
Now, imagine an upper plate that locks those two triangulated plates together. This paper template represents that idea...
This plate will create an edge where the other heim mounting tab can be hung-down on the opposite side. Still unresolved is my desire to add some additional triangulation from the underside of the bracket to the pumpkin in a way that doesn't create the original interference issues during PS droop...
Here's a shot of the axle at it's "full stuff" position (that's 27.5" from the floor to lower link mount bolt)....while also cranked hard-right against the steering stops. I finally made it to a full 6" of bump travel, with maybe 1/8" to spare!!!
Next Up: How about a steering linkage and steering box?
-G
Win some, lose some.
I have been systematically going through all of my cobbled-together link mounts and replacing them with "real" beefy usable mounts that will be part of the final front 3-link solution...
Some were wins: The frame-side PHB mount, and the lower DS link mount have been transformed into their final iterations (hopefully) with very little drama... however, as I started to move to the PS to rework the axle-side PHB mount and build it into a single large mount that integrated the lower link mount, things started to get dicey.
The following images will illustrate the struggles, and what I hope will be a solid solution....
Opening shot: Here is the lower plate being re-cut to integrate the lower link mount.
Here's a shot of the new plate as it was put into position on the passenger side.... yes, I managed to get a speed hole on this side as well!
This mount seemed like it was going to be slam-dunk. Unfortunately, what I didn't notice was that the PHB mount (when finally placed into double-shear mount) does not have the clearance it needs to allow the PS to droop down more than a few inches (while simultaneously turning hard right on the draglink) before a collision occurs.... take a look. You can see how the draglink is poised to collide with the mounting brackets unless something is changed:
The long plate that supported the PHB (and the two relatively long mounting tabs) were cut-down in an effort to gain clearance during droop...
Unfortunately, this only gains a few additional inches of droop but does not allow the draglink to move under that PHB mount the way I need it to. It was becoming clear that the axle-side PHB mount simply cannot be supported from underneath..... instead, I needed to think more creatively about a way to effectively "hang" that heim from a mount from above.
So... it was time to cut a substantial amount of the plate away to create the necessary clearance. From this point I would need to envision a new way to build an overhead double-shear mount:
To drive these loads back into the pumpkin area and support the PHB adequately, I built a single large vertical tab, and then triangulated a second plate to join with it..... as seen here:
Now, imagine an upper plate that locks those two triangulated plates together. This paper template represents that idea...
This plate will create an edge where the other heim mounting tab can be hung-down on the opposite side. Still unresolved is my desire to add some additional triangulation from the underside of the bracket to the pumpkin in a way that doesn't create the original interference issues during PS droop...
Here's a shot of the axle at it's "full stuff" position (that's 27.5" from the floor to lower link mount bolt)....while also cranked hard-right against the steering stops. I finally made it to a full 6" of bump travel, with maybe 1/8" to spare!!!
Next Up: How about a steering linkage and steering box?
-G
Lawdy lawdy lawdy! Ain't that some travel!!!!
Lawdy lawdy lawdy! Ain't that some travel!!!!
Fark Yeah! That's what happens when you go with a (chain) link suspension!!!
-G
Fark Yeah! That's what happens when you go with a (chain) link suspension!!!
-G
I hear those are flexy as all getout!!!
