My kid has a whole stack of Pokémon cards I can steal from him that I'll trade for it.
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
I'd be interested in the ORI's and maybe the motor too. Is the mock-up fuel tank up for sale too?
Man.....this is working out beautifully. I'll be out of this hobby and back to having a clean garage in no time!!!
-G
-G
Then you would be bored 30 seconds later and the remorse would set in. Then your son would kick your ???
Speaking to the topic of altered fender wheel well arches, check out the Scott's Hot Rods Goodguy's 2015 giveaway build on the 67-72 Chevy trucks forum, pages 8-11. I think they did a great job of raising the arches while maintaining good proportions.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=605823&page=8
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=605823&page=8
Yeah, we talked about those arches a dozen pages back....
There is no doubt that Scotts HotRods does nice work, but aesthetically I don't like the final product. As you can see in those build pics, they made NO adjustments to the radius at the TOP of the arch... 80% of the arch is left alone, and they just straightened and extended each side of it after raising the arch a couple of inches.
Ultimately, I don't think that style of arch works well on large offroad tires that stick out past the body. It only works when you are fitting tires completely BEHIND the fender lip.
Anyway, I prefer the look of a "stock" arch space that is simply enlarged by a few inches "all-the-way-around". It's more pleasing with the big offroad tire, and honestly I think the ability to add a 2" flare (like the NoLimit flare does) balances the body with a beefy look that is better matched to the tires/stance.
-G
1. WOW.
2. Many MANY PROUDS.
3. Living in New England (Vermont side of the upper valley) Vermont says no more than a half inch stick out per side for inspection, but they won't stop you for it. New Hampshire pretty much mirrors Vermont on that one the last time I checked.
4. Again. This is Awesome. I just read the whole thing over the last few weeks. And ya, I waited till @Greg72 posted.
EDIT. Just checked the VT and NH inspection rule books, they are really lax and unclear about a lot of modifications. That being said, yours fits vermonts standards for an antique as well as a few other categories. New Hampshires rule book is even more vague. So as far as annual inspection, you should be totally free and clear. Also, not sure where in New Hampshire you are, but I know a few shops if you run into issues.
2. Many MANY PROUDS.
3. Living in New England (Vermont side of the upper valley) Vermont says no more than a half inch stick out per side for inspection, but they won't stop you for it. New Hampshire pretty much mirrors Vermont on that one the last time I checked.
4. Again. This is Awesome. I just read the whole thing over the last few weeks. And ya, I waited till @Greg72 posted.
EDIT. Just checked the VT and NH inspection rule books, they are really lax and unclear about a lot of modifications. That being said, yours fits vermonts standards for an antique as well as a few other categories. New Hampshires rule book is even more vague. So as far as annual inspection, you should be totally free and clear. Also, not sure where in New Hampshire you are, but I know a few shops if you run into issues.
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A FEW SMALL UPDATES.....
Over the last week or so, a few small bits of progress happened.
First, I pulled the truck off the monster-jackstands and rolled it back outside. I will probably re-think the way I had it lifted up and center it properly under the mezzanine next time so I can do proper bump/droop experiments at full suspension travel in all positions.
Here's a 3/4 shot of that quick-and-dirty 44" arch and flare....kind of shows the "beefier" look that the truck has while still trying to keep everything "subtle and stock":
This one is a bit harder to see, but this rear shot shows the fenderlip stickout vs. tire stickout.
The other thing I wanted to tackle was getting the tank design 100% mocked-up based on the 29.75 Gallon design that I'd drawn up with PencilCAD. That meant that I needed to get the 5.5* taper across the bottom of the tank and lower it so that it was 10-1/2" deep on the bumper side and 12" deep on the axle side. This leaves me with about 1/2 of room underneath for a small air gap under the tank and a strong skidplate to protect it....while still staying hidden from view (side view) by the taper of the rear quarterpanels.
I also wanted to add the small "wings" underneath the framerails. This adds a trivial amount of extra fuel capacity (maybe 1 gallon?) but it does give me a nice flat surface to draw up against the underside of the framerails (with a traditional type tank strap setup). I can run the straps all the way around the bottom of the tank, and straight up both sides of the tank and anchor them at the very top of the framerail with some kind of solid welded bracket in 4 or 6 spots....
With the new tank design installed, it passes the "visual test".... as nothing can be seen from the side. No ugly corners poking down to spoil the view!
This was all important to accomplish and get finalized because in the back of my mind I still need to get the exhaust routing figured out... and it needs a "path" to escape out the rear corners of the truck (ideally) since that's the "stock" look for the truck.
This photo shows the aggressive 45-degree tapers that I put on the tank create a small "window of opportunity" where I should be able to sneak the exhaust from the inside of the framerails, back to the outside of the framerails where they ultimately need to go.
.....and to spell it out more clearly, here's a peek-a-boo shot of a piece of 3" diameter exhaust tubing approaching that area to give a sense of the space and scale.
Some of you who are on BookFace already saw this photo... but Cone Engineering delivered the remainder of the 304SS tubing (all 3" diameter) so that I can extend the headers all the way through to the back of the truck.
Now the only thing left is to find a nice source for stainless exhaust hangers that will work well and look as nice as the rest of the system.
Anyone have a link?
-G
Over the last week or so, a few small bits of progress happened.
First, I pulled the truck off the monster-jackstands and rolled it back outside. I will probably re-think the way I had it lifted up and center it properly under the mezzanine next time so I can do proper bump/droop experiments at full suspension travel in all positions.
Here's a 3/4 shot of that quick-and-dirty 44" arch and flare....kind of shows the "beefier" look that the truck has while still trying to keep everything "subtle and stock":
This one is a bit harder to see, but this rear shot shows the fenderlip stickout vs. tire stickout.
The other thing I wanted to tackle was getting the tank design 100% mocked-up based on the 29.75 Gallon design that I'd drawn up with PencilCAD. That meant that I needed to get the 5.5* taper across the bottom of the tank and lower it so that it was 10-1/2" deep on the bumper side and 12" deep on the axle side. This leaves me with about 1/2 of room underneath for a small air gap under the tank and a strong skidplate to protect it....while still staying hidden from view (side view) by the taper of the rear quarterpanels.
I also wanted to add the small "wings" underneath the framerails. This adds a trivial amount of extra fuel capacity (maybe 1 gallon?) but it does give me a nice flat surface to draw up against the underside of the framerails (with a traditional type tank strap setup). I can run the straps all the way around the bottom of the tank, and straight up both sides of the tank and anchor them at the very top of the framerail with some kind of solid welded bracket in 4 or 6 spots....
With the new tank design installed, it passes the "visual test".... as nothing can be seen from the side. No ugly corners poking down to spoil the view!
This was all important to accomplish and get finalized because in the back of my mind I still need to get the exhaust routing figured out... and it needs a "path" to escape out the rear corners of the truck (ideally) since that's the "stock" look for the truck.
This photo shows the aggressive 45-degree tapers that I put on the tank create a small "window of opportunity" where I should be able to sneak the exhaust from the inside of the framerails, back to the outside of the framerails where they ultimately need to go.
.....and to spell it out more clearly, here's a peek-a-boo shot of a piece of 3" diameter exhaust tubing approaching that area to give a sense of the space and scale.
Some of you who are on BookFace already saw this photo... but Cone Engineering delivered the remainder of the 304SS tubing (all 3" diameter) so that I can extend the headers all the way through to the back of the truck.
Now the only thing left is to find a nice source for stainless exhaust hangers that will work well and look as nice as the rest of the system.
Anyone have a link?
-G
I'm seeing a few ideas from StainlessWorks, etc. I kind of like the idea of a hanger that uses a through-bolt and bushing as opposed to those chunks of rubber that you just poke and hang metal rods through... I'm not sure how much room I'm really going to have, so low-profile hangers are probably going to be my best bet.
-G
I think I saw the ones u are talking about from summit racing. They use bushing similar to what peterbilts use for mounting there stacks to the cabs.
Hey Greg, I had an idea for your fenders. Remember John and Kelly's Power wagon? They used tubing under the flare to give it shape but also structure. It was very well executed and looked factory. Not sure if that's the direction you want to go but I figured I'd bring it up.
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/wifes-67-power-wagon-build-cage-complete.302765/
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/wifes-67-power-wagon-build-cage-complete.302765/
I use rubber isolators found under my 11' cts-v, they're short with not a lot of air gap. Not to say you can't get a tight fitment with standard isolator.
First picture is a 70' split bumper Camaro, 3" tube with the cts-v rubber exhaust hanger. They are the rubber isolators at the very rear of the car holding the mufflers, I really like using them
Rest is a exhaust I built for a TVR, one of 50 in the US, It has a very low ride height so the exhaust hung 1/2" off the bottom, made the hangers so the isolator sit next to the tube. Standard rubber hanger
the bolt throw isolators your talking about arent my favorite, I think a traditionally mounted exhaust looks better, easier to make hangers out of solid round for the perfect fit.
click image upload
First picture is a 70' split bumper Camaro, 3" tube with the cts-v rubber exhaust hanger. They are the rubber isolators at the very rear of the car holding the mufflers, I really like using them
Rest is a exhaust I built for a TVR, one of 50 in the US, It has a very low ride height so the exhaust hung 1/2" off the bottom, made the hangers so the isolator sit next to the tube. Standard rubber hanger
the bolt throw isolators your talking about arent my favorite, I think a traditionally mounted exhaust looks better, easier to make hangers out of solid round for the perfect fit.
click image upload
Put a hose clamp around the doughnut to help it survive a bit longer. Takes some of the stress off the rubber.
I heard Greg was going to put stacks on?!
Hater pipe through the hood would be good!
@folkenheath
@ClassicStyle
@EveryoneElseInterested
Here's my research thus far for mufflers and resonators:
The top line is the current placeholder in my framerails (Flowmaster 70-series). It a huge mother, and since it fits...pretty much anything else I choose should fit also.
I'm trying to stay focused on 3" (center in / center out) mufflers since those will be the simplest to connect to other exhaust tubing and if I end up building flanged connectors for everything it will make "swaps" between different muffler types a cinch!!!
I think I've captured the majority of stuff that is supposed to be "QUIET" and relatively free-flowing, but if I'm missing something let me know.
Since I've got all the tubing to build the entire exhaust system (front to back) I want to select a resonator first....then graft that in as far away from the header collector as I can fit it (while still staying inside the torsion box area)... then I need to make a crazy 90-degree turn to get to the inside of the framerails, and another 90-degree turn to hit the inlet side of the mufflers... I'm using 3" tubing throughout with a 6" CLR bend, so I'm hoping the restriction will be minimized. Throwing a few turns into the mix will probably help to quiet things down a bit so that's a nice side-effect.
-G
@ClassicStyle
@EveryoneElseInterested
Here's my research thus far for mufflers and resonators:
The top line is the current placeholder in my framerails (Flowmaster 70-series). It a huge mother, and since it fits...pretty much anything else I choose should fit also.
I'm trying to stay focused on 3" (center in / center out) mufflers since those will be the simplest to connect to other exhaust tubing and if I end up building flanged connectors for everything it will make "swaps" between different muffler types a cinch!!!
I think I've captured the majority of stuff that is supposed to be "QUIET" and relatively free-flowing, but if I'm missing something let me know.
Since I've got all the tubing to build the entire exhaust system (front to back) I want to select a resonator first....then graft that in as far away from the header collector as I can fit it (while still staying inside the torsion box area)... then I need to make a crazy 90-degree turn to get to the inside of the framerails, and another 90-degree turn to hit the inlet side of the mufflers... I'm using 3" tubing throughout with a 6" CLR bend, so I'm hoping the restriction will be minimized. Throwing a few turns into the mix will probably help to quiet things down a bit so that's a nice side-effect.
-G
You gonna just build your own resonator?
Nope. It seems like I can just buy a "Race Bullet" style muffler for around $70ea that will do the job....
I'm conflicted about which way to build this system during my "experimental" phase.
On the one hand, I could run straight piping (with V-Band clamps strategically placed) all the way to the mufflers and try the system with mufflers only to see how it sounds. If I can't stand the noise, I just unclamp a couple of V-bands and remove a straight section of 3" pipe....and swap in the resonators.
Conversely, I could build the system with the resonators from the get-go.... Then maybe go with a more aggressive muffler than I might otherwise choose since the resonator will chill-out some of the gnarly raspiness. If I still can't stand the noise I can keep swapping in quieter and quieter mufflers (while leaving the resonators in place) until I get a sound that I like.
Obviously, option #2 would make for the most simple trial-and-error experiments since the mufflers are easy to get access to, and would be a 5-minute job to unclamp and replace.
-G
Most factory systems have resonators, to help keep them quiet. You did want quiet didn't you?
Also, resonators if big enough can change the tuning of the system.
Also, resonators if big enough can change the tuning of the system.
