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My 2003 base Chevy 1500 has that same track on both seats.

Corbeau makes many different mounts, you might take a look at theirs.


Yeah, so it looks like the correct "term" for the style that I like is "double locking seat track".... The single locking versions have a lever on just one side, but the ones with the front U-shaped bar actually have locking mechanisms on both tracks which should make the whole thing stronger and failure-proof.

There seem to be tons of companies who make Double-Locking sliders.... the question becomes: What is the distance between the rails (vs. the OEM seat mounting holes on the underside of the seat frame) and how much "throw" is in the slider assembly itself....???

Presumably, if I could find a slider with a REALLLY long throw...... (especially for the passenger side) I could get the seat far enough forward, that I might not even need it to tilt forward. Maybe. :thinking:



-G
 
Why not just make it a latched style kind of similar to the oem? Seems simple enough to implement on whatever bases you use?
 
Greg,

I looked for weeks for sliders longer than 4-6" of slide and didn't come up with anything. Maybe you'll have better luck. The problem with simple sliders is that they have to be more than twice as long as the amount of slide they offer to work right.

You might look at some newer hatchback cars (VW golf comes to mind) that use a more complicated mechanism like a 4-bar link to swing the seat up and forward on a pivot to get farther than 6" of movement. If your axles are 4-linked, why not the seats? :D
 
No matter what you find its gonna need modded. Which is no biggie in my mind.

The sparco or Jeep style you posted are probably your best bet.

I don't remember if you are using a low back seat? With a fixed back seat you might want to see if it's even worth it to do a flip up style. I have attempted to do a couple and they just don't work out well enough to justify the work.
 
I don't remember exactly how they're set up but the geo trackers have a lot of travel. Just throwing that out there. Seems like they are double locking too. I have been wrong before so don't yell at me if they're not right
 
Why not just make it a latched style kind of similar to the oem? Seems simple enough to implement on whatever bases you use?

PS is a simple latch and flip-forward design from the factory, but since I need to rework the DS anyway, I thought I'd add sliders to both sides. An immovable seat is weird to me, even if there's plenty of legroom...... it's nice to set the seat where you actually want it for comfort, leg support, etc.


You might look at some newer hatchback cars (VW golf comes to mind) that use a more complicated mechanism like a 4-bar link to swing the seat up and forward on a pivot to get farther than 6" of movement. If your axles are 4-linked, why not the seats? :D

I'll check that out. I have a feeling that a VW solution like that is going to be a lot more expensive unless I get lucky and find a junkyard set. EDIT: I also think the newest Jeep JK tracks offer a slight "lift up" effect (about 1 or 2") once the seat is all the way forward on the tracks.... :thinking:


No matter what you find its gonna need modded. Which is no biggie in my mind.
The sparco or Jeep style you posted are probably your best bet.
I don't remember if you are using a low back seat? With a fixed back seat you might want to see if it's even worth it to do a flip up style. I have attempted to do a couple and they just don't work out well enough to justify the work.

My logic is to use a "mainstream" seat track and modify the bracketry that holds it to the seat and floor. That way if it ever goes bad (unlikely) I can swap out an easy-to-find part and don't have to cut/re-weld a whole new fully custom assembly. Plus, I figure that with something like a Jeep part... they've done all the durability testing and have the mechanism perfected. No rattles, wobbly tracks or sloppiness.... After selling a gajillion Jeeps they certainly found any weaknesses years ago and refined and refined and refined those parts and now they'll basically go forever.

The tilt seat is kind of a stupid idea but that's how the factory did it. The seatback hits the dashpad and windshield and doesn't really create very good access to the rear seat area, which is why I wanted to mess around with sliders too... perhaps with some combination of those two methods I can get decent ingress/egress to the backseat area.


-G
 
The tracks you posted look almost identical to the tracks on the 2000-2007 Silverado bucket seats. The handle is a match as well as how the mechanism locks the tracks. If you want I can get a couple of pics in the daylight tomorrow and post them up.
 
Garage door trim and siding is all new too. I did a small "reveal" on the trimwork to give it some extra visual appeal.... Fluffy Jarchow is always watching, so I've got to keep my construction skillz sharp!


-G

Fluffy Jarchow rules when it comes to explaining building stuff!

Ahhh. you guys are making me blush. :o

Greg, I hope you come up with a nice slider system. I'd seriously go back and cut out those track things I installed for a better system. No need for the flip pass seat though, as the fat guy has recliners installed. lol
 
So not been the best day head wise for me so I get bored and look at seat sliders all day.

I think your way better off trying a universal type set. The kind that has the large bar in front.

For a while there some years back. I'm pretty sure someone put an add up I never saw that said hey this guy can fit any seat in anything cheap!

Hyundai seats in a Toyota. Toyota seats in a bronco. Jeep seats in a chevy pickup. Chevy blazer seats in a later model bronco. Eclipse seats in a samurai, Durango, and a burb. BMW seats in a jeep. Mercedes seats in a land rover.

That's just what I can think of off the top of my head.

The aftermarket stuff will take the least modifications I think
 
backiing up a bit to the exhaust and bracketry....if it hasn't been brought up already try to keep in mind that if you need to work on the truck from underneath, how those parts will be accessible for removal...its much easier to design from the top, but in real world, your under the truck on the trail.
nice stuff Greg, congrats on getting the concrete work handled.
 
backiing up a bit to the exhaust and bracketry....if it hasn't been brought up already try to keep in mind that if you need to work on the truck from underneath, how those parts will be accessible for removal...its much easier to design from the top, but in real world, your under the truck on the trail.
nice stuff Greg, congrats on getting the concrete work handled.



Very good point Zim...

I've been spending a small fortune on Vibrant v-band clamps so that I can remove the exhaust in smallish sections... As needed. I should definitely try to remove everything from below just to confirm though. :)


-G
 
Might want to think about making the floor removable in certain section also.

Though much harder than just undoing a clamp as I'm sure you want to be fairly well seperated from the heat/noise going on underneath
 
MADE AN EXECUTIVE DECISION:


Instead of making the selection of seat tracks into a weeks-long subproject.... I just ordered a pair of Sparco #00493s from Summit Racing today.

Sparco%2000493%20Seat%20Track.jpg



Simple, Low-Profile Design... Good User Reviews... Reputable Company. Done! :deal:

They should be here in time for the weekend so I can keep making forward progress on this build.......tick-tock, tick-tock!!!!



-G
 

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