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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build

This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Overview Gallery Discussion
It won't be anything store-bought....

I have been watching AJs troubles getting his engine crossmember to work, I'm not sure that one is designed to work with BBCs :dunno:

Anyway, with no more "C" channel on the frame to hang crossmembers in, everythings is going to end up custom-made. I might end up doing a mounting "ear" on the crossmembers so that they will rest on the top edge of the framerails to help support the weight. That way I'm not counting on the through-bolts shear strength to hold the motor and driveline.

I'm probably about a week away from dealing with crossmember designs, you'll have to stay tuned in.


:usaflag:
 
Well, I did ask if you going to do something similar, not exactly the using the DIY4x cross-member. I knew the lack of channels would be a problems for their cross-member.
I'm always watching this thread, so I won't be missing what you come up with the cross-member issue.
 
Greg72 said:
It won't be anything store-bought....

I have been watching AJs troubles getting his engine crossmember to work, I'm not sure that one is designed to work with BBCs :dunno:

Anyway, with no more "C" channel on the frame to hang crossmembers in, everythings is going to end up custom-made. I might end up doing a mounting "ear" on the crossmembers so that they will rest on the top edge of the framerails to help support the weight. That way I'm not counting on the through-bolts shear strength to hold the motor and driveline.

I'm probably about a week away from dealing with crossmember designs, you'll have to stay tuned in.


:usaflag:
Click to expand...

The DIY4x crossmember will work great with a BBC...until you want to put Hooker headers on with it :D Who knows, the Doug Thorleys Burt has (you have a set too, right??) may have cleared better, but I want / need 2" primaries. There's just so many variables to work with here...
 
Greg, here is a link to my website where I have a bunch of pics of the headers I'm using on my bbc. They aren't 2" tubes, but at least you can see one of Dynomax's offerings.
 
Hey Yukon Jack, What transfer-case do you have in your 69? That thing is an odd ball but it looks like it has a factory adapter on it and 69 (maybe 68) was the first year of the SM465( I think.)
 
2009.12.07 - UPDATE! - OH MAN, I'VE GOT SPIDERS IN THE MANSPACE!!!

What a nice surprise.... I was just minding my own business tonight in the shop, welding and welding and welding on that 2nd framerail, when the UPS truck backed all the way up my driveway and right up to the rollup doors...

I guess he wasn't feeling strong enough to carry these from the street.....two Spidertrax 9" fabricated housings (@ 80Lbs each) for the Mog-9 axles:

DSC02232.jpg


There was no way I was waiting until Christmas morning to open these...

DSC02234.jpg


And certainly no way I wasn't going to take at least ONE of them out of the box to really check it out!

DSC02238.jpg


Those 3.5" axle tubes look BEEFY in person....

DSC02239.jpg


One step closer....

This makes me really want to get the frame finished soon, so that I can get it back underneath the chassis and get the axle housings in position. It won't be long now until I'm doing some suspension mock-ups! :saweet:



:usaflag:
 
Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamn. I'm speechless otherwise.
 
Dead sexy Greg, and I gotta say a bit intimidating too! I am assuming the Volvo portal boxes get attached to the ends, then custom shafts made from the center section to the portal inputs?

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
Dead sexy Greg, and I gotta say a bit intimidating too! I am assuming the Volvo portal boxes get attached to the ends, then custom shafts made from the center section to the portal inputs?

Rene
Click to expand...

Volvo??!?!???? Bite your tongue! :D (Ford owns Volvo, how embarrassing)

No Volvo parts on this rig....good ol' fashioned German engineering. Mercedes-Benz Unimog 404 portals my friend! :deal:


It's a bit daunting to have such "nice" parts sitting in the shop, but it just forces me to bring my "A-Game" and really move this build to the next level.


:usaflag:
 
JDNobodi said:
And yet you are going to put aftermarket Ford 9" housings in your rig?
Click to expand...

There's one in every crowd... :haha: Sorry guys, the Ford 9" is a defacto standard in performance circles. Occasionally even Ford gets one right! Just look at their stamped steel shock towers... :D


ryoken said:
absolutely bad arse... :bow:

mind if I ask the price?
Click to expand...

They were $100 off apiece in the "Outlet" section of the Spidertrax site which I believe dropped the price to $499 ea. I haven't got the final invoice yet, but even with all the extra oil seals I ordered I was out the door for around $1100. Not super cheap, but not "unobtanium" pricing either... sort of like buying 4'x8' sheets of composite fiberglass, eh? :wink1:



:usaflag:
 
amen brother.... :haha::doah::haha:

thats not bad at all... Do you have all the mog stuff?
 
I've got a complete set of 404 axles (one fixed axle, one steer axle) and an aftermarket set of MSI CNC-machined portal boxes.

The parts I still need are the Ford 3rd members, lockers and axle shafts made to fit whatever width I end up with... some of the 404 shafts might end up re-splined to work, but at least some of them will probably be custom-built.

:usaflag:
 
When are the camera crews arriving for this build?

AWESOME build! And such talent.
 
Scotty,

Good info... That nodular centersection was recommended by a few other guys who build Mog-9 conversions, so I was already pretty sure that was the direction I was headed.

The problem in the portal application is that the 3rd has to be flipped to make the wheels turn the right way and that creates a high pinion setup that unfortunately doesn't oil very well. PortalTek makes a pinion support with an integrated oil slinger so I think I may have to go that route.

By the way, what is the method to check the bolt hole pattern on a 9" centersection? Is there something obvious about the hole pattern on the center chunk that tells you which side is UP and which side is DOWN? I want to double-check that I got the right housings.... obviously I can always flip the housing to make it work but then the existing fill plug will end up being a "drain plug" instead....

:usaflag:
 
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