CK5
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
x2!
bronc3buster842001
1/2 ton status
Them are the ones I have been looking at. Was goning to buy a crossmember and all. Decided to build my own cross member. Just need the mounts now.
Seeing your crossmember and mounts made me change mine.
2010.10.11 - UPDATE! - MORE UNIMOG TEARDOWNS AND CONVERSION STUFF...
I spent two long days working around the house getting ready for Charlie's arrival, so the missus sent me out to the garage today as a thank you present for all my efforts. Knowing that I had a lot to accomplish I hit the shop at around 8AM.... did some cleaning and organizing and was ready to get started by around 9AM.
Here's a shot of my "operating table" at the start of the day. Hot coffee? Check! Tools? Check! iTunes music playing in the background? Check. OK...good, time to begin.
I've still got one messed up UniMog hub assembly from last weekend that I need to pull apart and re-do, but there are still three others that needed work. Here are the initial parts for the 8-Lug conversion.
Eight wheel studs, a labyrinth seal cover and the hub itself.
The studs get pressed on first, followed by the seal cover....the cover ends up in the way of the studs, so if you press the seal on first you get to start over. I actually learned this before actually making the mistake.
After a couple relaxing hours of careful assembly and anti-seize, I had all the parts together and looking good. I put them next to my almost-right hub assembly...
I cleaned up the other rear backing plate and painted it. No point posting up more photos of that...it looks the same as the last one I did a few posts back.
Once that was done and drying, I decided to dig in on the front knuckle assembly.
There is a strange non-OEM looking machine pattern on this one....looks not quite centered on the casting either. Weird.
That's about all the progress to show for a single day.... like always, the first one is always slower than the second one.
I spent two long days working around the house getting ready for Charlie's arrival, so the missus sent me out to the garage today as a thank you present for all my efforts. Knowing that I had a lot to accomplish I hit the shop at around 8AM.... did some cleaning and organizing and was ready to get started by around 9AM.
Here's a shot of my "operating table" at the start of the day. Hot coffee? Check! Tools? Check! iTunes music playing in the background? Check. OK...good, time to begin.
I've still got one messed up UniMog hub assembly from last weekend that I need to pull apart and re-do, but there are still three others that needed work. Here are the initial parts for the 8-Lug conversion.
Eight wheel studs, a labyrinth seal cover and the hub itself.
The studs get pressed on first, followed by the seal cover....the cover ends up in the way of the studs, so if you press the seal on first you get to start over. I actually learned this before actually making the mistake.
After a couple relaxing hours of careful assembly and anti-seize, I had all the parts together and looking good. I put them next to my almost-right hub assembly...
I cleaned up the other rear backing plate and painted it. No point posting up more photos of that...it looks the same as the last one I did a few posts back.
Once that was done and drying, I decided to dig in on the front knuckle assembly.
There is a strange non-OEM looking machine pattern on this one....looks not quite centered on the casting either. Weird.
That's about all the progress to show for a single day.... like always, the first one is always slower than the second one.
you are like ocd organized 
Its nice to have a clean bench to start assembly on though. I appreciate your prep work Greg.
Good looking hubs.
Do you think that the "off center" machining marks are just because the casting is inconsistent in thickness in the area that was machined? It looks like it is the same distance from the bushing in the center of the knuckle to where the machining starts. Maybe I'm seeing it wrong but it looks like the thickness of the casting may be thinner on one side, than the other?
Good looking hubs.
Do you think that the "off center" machining marks are just because the casting is inconsistent in thickness in the area that was machined? It looks like it is the same distance from the bushing in the center of the knuckle to where the machining starts. Maybe I'm seeing it wrong but it looks like the thickness of the casting may be thinner on one side, than the other?
Greg, I sent you an e-mail, you should have some uber badass press plates hopefully next week on your doorstep to replace that "chiwaneese" plate you shattered. 
I was going to ask "What's up with the uber long wheel studs" when I saw them above, but after continued reading, Scott beat me to the "uber" term on the same page.
So I'll keep it simple, why are the wheel studs so long? Are you using the drag type lug nuts or something?
So I'll keep it simple, why are the wheel studs so long? Are you using the drag type lug nuts or something?
The wheel studs are long because of the uber-backspacing required to get a decent scrub radius. 
With the portal assemblies, the WMS spaced a lot further away from the steering pivot. Ideally, you center the wheel so that half of the wheel is in front of the WMS and half is behind it. To accomplish that with a portal box, you'd need something like 9" of backspacing on the wheels and a small miracle to avoid hitting the brake calipers with the backside of the wheel.
I'm going fairly aggressive with the backspacing as it is. The H2 wheels are around 5.56" of backspacing with a 17" diameter. IF the wheels actually fit without any interferences then yes, the wheel studs will be unusually long. However more likely I'll need to use the included 1" thick wheels spacer (I think that is shown in previous kit photos) to move the wheel outward.... and obviously that will reduce the available stud length to something more reasonable.
With the portal assemblies, the WMS spaced a lot further away from the steering pivot. Ideally, you center the wheel so that half of the wheel is in front of the WMS and half is behind it. To accomplish that with a portal box, you'd need something like 9" of backspacing on the wheels and a small miracle to avoid hitting the brake calipers with the backside of the wheel.
I'm going fairly aggressive with the backspacing as it is. The H2 wheels are around 5.56" of backspacing with a 17" diameter. IF the wheels actually fit without any interferences then yes, the wheel studs will be unusually long. However more likely I'll need to use the included 1" thick wheels spacer (I think that is shown in previous kit photos) to move the wheel outward.... and obviously that will reduce the available stud length to something more reasonable.
Zim,
I think you're right....I'll have to study the part a bit more, but it looks like all of the machined circumferences are aligned correctly (nothing is cut offcenter) but the casting seems to have a lot more material removed on one side vs. the other.
The other thing that concerned me initially is that the machining seems to have "chatter marks" in it which made me wonder if it was something that was done my a mechanic or service person instead of the factory...and if so, why did they need to do it?
There's plenty more to study and figure out.... this Mog stuff isn't exactly commonplace, so there are bound to be some mysteries to solve along the way.
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Keep up the "uber" work 
Don't forget that the rotors will slip over those studs also so that will take up some length (.500 i'd guess).
Oh yeah brakes...... I should TOTALLY do some of those!
Hey whats wrong with extra long wheel studs?
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supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
I'm begining to think this is gonna be one of those projects where you keep finding cool stuff to do to it and never actually finish it. 
I thought that was how all projects went.
True, it's never ending.
