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That part is beyond my control.

With everyone starting to take time off for the holidays, I don't think I'll be seeing any finished parts until early next month.

I might be able to find a few other things to work on while I'm waiting...


:usaflag:
 
Merry Christmas!

Thanks Santa!

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so is that for onboard air or for your paint spraying booth you will build to paint your truck.:D
 
thats a nice one Greg... I eyeballed those... hopefully my Binks unit will be here tues/wed in time to paint... if not, i brought the one from work home...
 
2010.12.27 - UPDATE! - EXAXT MOG 404 DISK BRAKES...

After a massive crush of activity in the house to get ready for the new baby and all of the commensurate shopping and wrapping for Christmas, there was finally some time to just relax and NOT work on the house for a change! :woot:

I'm trying to wait as patiently as I can for the axle adapter parts to arrive, but in the meantime it made sense to try those new Ford brake parts to see how much effort it would be to get them installed on the Mog portals.

Like any "custom" part, there were plenty of opportunities to adjust and grind things to fit. Here's a high-level image showing the basic design.... basically a lower hanger bolts to three existing portal box holes to establish the caliper position:

DSC04227.jpg


I'm not sure if you guys will really get the visual impact of these calipers relative to the size of the portal (which isn't small either!) but these things are HUGE and clearances are really tight everywhere. Here is a shot of some minor grinding that had to occur to allow the caliper to swing into position next to the portal housing. The housing around the large lower gear was just a wee bit too large for this to fit unmodified. Nothing surprising here, this was documented in the Exaxt instructions and the amount of metal removed was less than 1/8" at the deepest point.

DSC04229.jpg


When it came time to drop the rotor into place, there wasn't enough room to clear the shoulder of the wheel studs. The center hole of the rotor is EXACTLY the same dimension as the machined 404 hub, so the "overhang" part of each wheelstud had to be dressed-down to match the diameter of the hub. This one wasn't expected, but it wasn't really a big deal to resolve.

DSC04235.jpg


The upper caliper mount uses a factory "ear" that used to hold the drum brake assembly. The bracketry locates the upper mount slightly further out away from the portal housing. A bit of grinding was required on the portal box "ear" and the oval-shaped brackets needed to be flattened on one side to get all the bolt holes aligned. This was due to the MSI portal being a little "beefier" than the stock part and having some extra material in that area.

DSC04242.jpg


After a LOT of test fitting and fussing around, the caliper bolts all lined up and dropped into place perfectly. So I unbolted the lower caliper bolt, swung the caliper out of the way and dropped the impressively large rotor into position.....then brought the caliper back down where it belongs.

DSC04255.jpg


About this time, I really started to appreciate how heavy this entire portal/brake assembly had become. It was not the sort of thing I could just "throw" around on the workbench anymore.... it was SOLID, and a bit awkward to handle.

The final test was to drop it into the H2 wheel to see if the caliper would actually clear everything as I'd hoped. There isn't a LOT of extra room, but it does fit without interference. :thumb:

DSC04265.jpg


The really nice part is that I did this clearance test without the 1" Exaxt spacer added to the brake assembly. I guess there are plenty of wheels that won't clear a brake assembly this large, so the spacer is an "optional" part of the Exaxt assembly that can be added (or deleted) depending on the specific application.

Unfortunately the Exaxt hub is about 5.125" across, and the centerhole of the H2 wheel is about 4.75", so although I was able to put the lugnuts on it and draw the two part together without interferences, the wheel was only being held there by a small amount of contact area where those two parts overlapped.

The good news is that I should be able to get a much thinner spacer machined (maybe 3/8" thick) and leave those 1" spacers on the shelf instead. Pulling the wheels in by 5/8" per side may seem like a small victory, but it will help reduce the scrub radius to very reasonable levels.

1 down.....3 more to go. :doah:


:usaflag:
 
Greg have you reached a point yet to where using aftermarket new portals actually would have been cost effective? Or do these have a big enough beef advantage to where you would not have considered them at all?
 
I can appreciate the "adjustments" needed Greg. Seems like a lot of aftermarket parts need those adjustments.
Parts are looking sweet.
 
Greg have you reached a point yet to where using aftermarket new portals actually would have been cost effective? Or do these have a big enough beef advantage to where you would not have considered them at all?

Shawn,

Do you mean something like the PortalTek ones...?

Those "seemed" expensive at first glance but if I were willing to add my receipts up they would have probably been cheaper than where I'm at now.

Then again, who's got a bank account with the full "nut" all at once? Most of us scrape up a couple thousand at a time, buy something "cool" then start saving again for the next part we want...

Not saying it's the most cost-effective way but it seems to be how my build is going to be completed.


:usaflag:
 
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Shawn,

Do you mean something like the PortalTek ones...?

Those "seemed" expensive at first glance but if I were willing to add my receipts up they would have probably been cheaper than where I'm at now.

Then again, who's got bank account with the full "nut" all at once? Most of us scrape up a couple thousand at a time, buy something "cool" then start saving again for the next part we want...

Not saying it's the most cost-effective way but it seems to be how my build is going to be completed.


:usaflag:

Yes those are the ones.


You make a great point though:doah:
 
Yes those are the ones.


You make a great point though:doah:

According to the threads over on Pirate, Portal-Tek went bankrupt about a year ago.... but not before taking $5000 and $10,000 deposits from numerous customers. They locked the doors, turned off the phones and apparently went into hiding from customers and creditors. :eek1:

At this point, I don't think there is a single US-based company building hybrid portal axles. The only choice if you want them is to make it a personal DIY project. Guess I was on the right track after all... :thinking:


:usaflag:
 
2011.01.07 - UPDATE! - 3 YEARS LATER.....

Today marks a moment for introspection and reflection. It was exactly 3 years ago today that I drove the K5 for the last time. I pulled it into the garage and put it up on jackstands to rebuild it the way I'd been imagining it in my own mind for several years.

This date also marks the 10 YEAR anniversary (give or take a few weeks) of the day I first bought this truck and drove it home from Oregon.... time sure flies! :eek1:

It seems hard to believe that this project has been going for that long.


In my own defense, I will say that this journey has not been solely about rebuilding a truck. Looking back to the garage photos from those earliest days of the build, I didn't own a lot of the nice tools that I have now and the shop itself was poorly insulated, with very limited storage space. A great deal of time has been spent acquiring new knowledge and skills that I'd never had before.

Metalworking - I have to admit that learning about rust repair was one of the more humbling aspects of the build so far. Doing this type of repair is very tedious and time consuming and really tested my patience. Becoming familiar with hammer and dolly work proved to be a very satisfying part of that process, and even though I've only learned the basics so far it has greatly expanded my confidence and ability to tackle future projects.

Tube Bending - The building of the hydraulic bender attachment and the acquisition of the BendTech PRO software was another huge step in my personal development toward more professional-type rollcage fabrication. Being able to land my bends EXACTLY where I wanted them and with the exact number of degrees was a huge victory. Now I know that if I can imagine something, I can truly render it with tubing.

Suspension - I made a major revision to the old "ExcelCAD" program about a year ago when I was home with the flu. That allowed me to refresh my memory about suspension design considerations and allowed me to start on the bracketry for the rear 4-link setup. Getting the axle and links in place was a huge inspirational step in the build.

Mog-9 Axles - These have been probably the single most expensive and scariest part of the build so far. With so little information available on the web, there is almost nobody to get answers from or builds to study. This has forced me to learn a lot of it myself with VERY slow, deliberate studying of parts, diagrams and simply taking stuff apart to see how it was designed. Lots of specialty tools were required as well....large sockets, 20-ton press, breaker bars, metric wrenches and custom-made pullers. The final result will be awesome, but I will certainly have "earned my stripes" by the time they are complete and operational.

Frame - The time spent welding two complete frame together to form a boxed one was something I'd never thought of prior to actually getting into the build. I guess you could say it was one of those things that just happens during an inspirational moment during the build process. It wasn't nearly as difficult as I'd first thought, and I'm really glad I just went for it when the thought came to me.

Build Supplies - Over these last few years, I was slow to embrace the idea of having "extra" stuff stockpiled for convenience. For at least the first year, I'd go into an old box of grubby, rusted take-off bolts to find fasteners I needed for the build....and then one day when I finally had enough, I went online and spent $500 on a complete starter set of GR-8 bolts, nuts and washers, and probably another $200 for nice bins to hold them all. I can't express what a difference this has made in the satisfaction of the build, and how much time it saves me on a "build day" by not having to stop and make a trip to a hardware store for bolts I don't have. Lately, I've also stockpiled flapdiscs, red Scotchbrite pads, Roloc discs, Brakeleen, and those boxes of blue mechanics towels. Having a surplus of consumables really keeps things moving along more effiently.

CK5 - Of course the single most important aspect of this build has been getting support and advice from the guys here. Long-term builds can be a real test of patience and it is easy to get frustrated and burnt-out when the dollars are pouring out and the project just seems to be going nowhere. It's always inspirational to see other people's builds moving along, and to share photos. Sometimes just getting a few encouraging words or getting some tips that will save time or frustration is enough to get me fired up again. So thanks to all of you who have participated in this thread over the past 3 years.... I've got no idea how many more years we'll be gathering here, but I'll keep posting the photos if you'll keep checking in. :deal:


I'm sure the lingering question on everyone's mind is: "When will it be finished?". The simple answer is that it will be done when I've done each step as correctly and completely as I know how. That is not a date-constrained target, it is a quality-constrained one.... the truck needs to be completely assembled, then completely disassembled for all the final painting and plating work. THEN, I can reassemble it for the last time and take it for a drive.

I've said it many times: For me, this build is as much about the journey and the enjoyment of the build and time spent in my shop, as it is the final product. I hope that those of you watching don't get too frustrated at the slow pace at times... because in reality I'm enjoying this every step of the way.

I hope that in a few years time, my own son will be able to come out to the shop and help me put the final touches on this build, so that when the sun is shining and the weather is warm, we'll be able to roll up the garage door and finally take it out for a drive! :thumb:




:usaflag:
 
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Mog-9 Axles - These have been probably the single most expensive and scariest part of the build so far. With so little information available on the web, there is almost nobody to get answers from or builds to study. This has forced me to learn a lot of it myself with VERY slow, deliberate studying of parts, diagrams and simply taking stuff apart to see how it was designed. Lots of specialty tools were required as well....large sockets, 20-ton press, breaker bars, metric wrenches and custom-made pullers. The final result will be awesome, but I will certainly have "earned my stripes" by the time they are complete and operational.

...and now that trail has been blazed for other to follow! :bow::bow::bow:

Even people like me who are only doing moderate builds fulley understand how long it takes. I'm nearly 2 1/2 years into mine and it is a far less ambitious project.

Keep up the good work! :waytogo:
 
Seriously dude... You're an inspiration to all of us who are doing a build on our trucks. I just wish I had the time to do mine as well as you're doing yours. God speed!!!
 
Keep going Greg. I enjoy reading up on the build as well as taking good ideas and using them myself. My favorite learnings from professor Greg72 so far include:

1. Keeping the shop area organized and clean. it sounds dumb, but in the past, I'd only clean up the area after a task was done. After seeing how clean your space always looks, I've made it a habit to clean up every day when I'm done. This has made it so much more enjoyable going out the next day and not stepping on metal shavings and being able to find all my tools.

2. The stock of nuts and bolts is really helpful as you said, although my stock isn't nearly as extensive as yours. For other people reading this, you can buy grade 8 hardware "by the pound" at most Tractor Supply stores for waaay cheaper than most hardware stores.

3. Taking lots of pictures: I've got tons of pictures that are fun to look at as well as helpful in remembering what parts looked like and how they were assembled.

So keep it up, I'm sure I can steal more helpful ideas as you go. :)
 
Greg, seeing your work on the site, and then coming to meet you in NH, was an eye opener. Your truck is trick. The suspension fab blew me away to see it, and articulation....get outta here, that's rediculous.
Anyway, your build is one reason I've jumped in to my build (over my head sometimes too) but I'm getting through it.
Thanks for the inspiration.
 
2011.01.18 - UPDATE! - FRONT KNUCKLE PARTS....

I'm still waiting on my west coast bling to arrive, but even as I tease Scott about the delays it's obvious that there's still PLENTY for me to do before I'm ready to use those parts anyway.

So I put on my dust mask and face shield and spent some quality time in the shop with a wirewheel removing layers and layers of OD green paint from the factory front knuckles and smaller parts to get them ready for a zinc basecoat and a final coat of Eastwood "Spray Gray".


Even an old pizza box can be useful one last time... to catch a little overspray! :D

DSC04321.jpg


The front axle uses a rather complicated CV-style setup in the front knuckle.... two trunnions (with 60 needle bearings each). Here is a shot of the bolt on caps.

DSC04326.jpg


A shot of some cap seals I need to find replacements for...

DSC04327.jpg


This is a shot of the large center chunk of the CV setup and the small rubber o-rings that allow all the needle bearings to get greased through some recessed zerk fittings. There is a rather elaborate pathway that the grease travels through to reach all the internal parts from just two external fittings.

DSC04329.jpg


After a day of cleaning and painting. I decided to paint the trunnion Chevy orange so that I'd have a contrasting color buried in those CVs. If something ever breaks, it's good to be able to detect if the damage is at the inner axle shaft or the outer one.

DSC04334.jpg


There is still another complete trunnion assembly that needs to be stripped apart (can be seen still assembled to the inner axle in the upper right portion of the photo), cleaned and painted to give me a complete set of parts to re-assemble for this RF knuckle assembly... and of course I also need to locate a few of those smaller gaskets, and o-ring seals so that I can rebuild with fresh parts.


:usaflag:
 
It's amazing how much time actually goes into just cleaning on one of these builds. I still to this day can come in the house completely filthy from taking off 40 year old grease and grime from a hidden little nook a good year into the build. :doah:

I would have never thought about how much money is tied into flap wheels, cut-off wheels, wire wheels for the grinder and drill, roloc disks with every grit from 36 up to red scotch brite and the list goes on....:rolleyes:

It sure is nice having clean parts though. :D
 
looks great Greg...Norcal your right, cleaning alone is neverending it seems like.
It is so nice to have clean stuff to work on though.
 

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