'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build

[Greg72]

You get all kinds of credit with this build but it sure does appear that there's been some "heat" in that factory tie rod hole.

OK, that makes more sense now. The discoloration you see is just from all the grinding I did on that steering arm to make it match up to the other parts I built.

Jeebus this thing will be ridiculous when finished.

Nevermind, it's ridiculous already!

Thanks Sean. Got the PS arm done tonight, and started using my templates to cut out the DS "horseshoe", etc. Cant wait to get that side finished so I can stop using bungee cords to hold up my tie rod.....and the wheels flopping around each in their own direction is getting old too.

More photos tomorrow. Ive got to go wash all this metal dust stink off me and get some sleep!

-G

 

[4X4HIGH]

You just going to remove that factory arm entirely once you're done?

 

[Greg72]

You just going to remove that factory arm entirely once you're done?

Heck no!

The factory steering arm provides some much needed double-shear bracing for the new steering system. Blue Torch Fab designed a set of aftermarket steering arms for the 404 and they were a simple "high steer" design using a horseshoe plate but with no additional support. I've seen pictures where they became completely twisted and wrecked from the leverage. Given that I'm incorporating the tie rod into the same area, the loads will be even higher. I've seen a few successful arm designs on the 404, but unfortunately they all seem to be massive and a little clunky-looking.

I tried my best to make the steering arm as strong as it needs to be, while still making it as attractive as possible. There was one final thing that was added to give additional support. A new 3/8" boomerang shape was added to the backside of the arm to stiffen it and act like "I-beam". It didn't seem like the angled plates by themselves were going to have enough strength to resist bending/twisting...

This gave me as much material as possible while still allowing the wheel to bolt back into place without interference.

-G

 

[chulisohombre]

You got some very good fab goinon there. Remember when Dana 60 with crossover was tough to do. You are reinventing the wheel.

 

[NorCal69]

Nice new backbone.

Are you going to add a some gussets to it? Three on top and two on bottom looks like it would really lock that thing in there.

 

[Greg72]

Nice new backbone.

Are you going to add a some gussets to it? Three on top and two on bottom looks like it would really lock that thing in there.

I was thinking about one final laminated diamond-shaped plate across the top. Put a few speed holes in the part so I can weld the perimeter (and inside each hole) and I think that will be enough overkill on the overkill.

-G

 

[NorCal69]

I think that will be enough overkill on the overkill.

-G

QFT..

Serious question..... Do you get worried about welding over the Dykem or for that matter the mill scale? All that I've ever heard is Clean..Clean..Clean for your prep on metal.

I've seen on some of the vids (Metal something something on youtube) and that guy will not even worry about the mill scale. Was just curious, as it sure would save on some consumables.

 

[4X4HIGH]

How is the factory arm going to help any at this point since it doesn't appear that you can even incorporate it into your new arm? Is there enough room left that you're going to drill a hole through your new mount and bolt the factory arm to the new mount?

 

[Greg72]

QFT..

Serious question..... Do you get worried about welding over the Dykem or for that matter the mill scale? All that I've ever heard is Clean..Clean..Clean for your prep on metal.

I've seen on some of the vids (Metal something something on youtube) and that guy will not even worry about the mill scale. Was just curious, as it sure would save on some consumables.

Mike,

I don't worry about welding on the Dykem.... the only thing that makes me nervous is welding on top of chlorinated brake cleaner (for obvious reasons!) Honestly, I try to remove mill scale ahead of time when I can but there have been times when I've welded right over it. This 3/8" plate stuff is ludicrously thick and it can take a LOT of heat without issue. I've been cranking up the welder into the 22.0V range (vs. 19.0V for most other things) and really letting the heat penetrate... I suspect that the mill scale doesn't survive, and I haven't seen any evidence of porosity or those little bubbling "growths" that you get when you weld contaminated metals. You are right though, cleaning mill scale takes a lot of effort....it's stickier than the contents of a baby diaper!

How is the factory arm going to help any at this point since it doesn't appear that you can even incorporate it into your new arm? Is there enough room left that you're going to drill a hole through your new mount and bolt the factory arm to the new mount?

The plan is to open-up that lower corner and insert a really thick-walled piece of DOM (maybe 2" long and 1" O.D. x .375 wall??) which can be tapped for threads and then when the steering arm hole get redrilled to a simple straight hole (to remove the tapered hole it has now) I should be able to run a nice beefy bolt up through it and into the threaded sleeve..... a little hard to explain, but I'll post photos once it's done and it will make sense.


-G

 

[76zimmer]

needs more triangulation...


seriously sick Greg!

 

[bp71k5]

Hey Greg,

Are you not worried about the whole "heims are not DOT approved for steering" issue in some states?

 

[ktmoutfront]

Shhhhhhhhh.

Mine is not dot legal at all. That's why I carry a $1mil personal liability policy. When you remove the leafs, all street legal compliance is gone.

But if you build a full custom car, with new VIN, it is OK.

 

[Greg72]

Hey Greg,

Are you not worried about the whole "heims are not DOT approved for steering" issue in some states?

I suppose not.

This is all built from the Evolution Machine "medium" heims....something like 150,000 psi (I'd have to look it up but it's huge) so from a strength perspective they will not be a weak point. It may not meet the letter of the law in some states, but it won't be because its unsafe.

-G

EDIT: from original post 937...

Evolution Machine heim ratings:

Smalls (3/4 shank) = 50,000 psi
Medium (1.25" shank) = 120,000 psi
Large (1.25" shank) = 250,000 psi
Frankenheim (??? shank) = 500,000 psi

 

[bp71k5]

Is New Hampshire like Ca in that there's no yearly inspection to worry about? Since yours is supposed to be street driven across country in a couple years, I thought maybe you had some slick way of dealing with that stuff.

 

[Chevy305]

Is New Hampshire like Ca in that there's no yearly inspection to worry about? Since yours is supposed to be street driven across country in a couple years, I thought maybe you had some slick way of dealing with that stuff.

That and are you going to register it as an antique?

 

[Greg72]

We've got annual inspections here, but a friendly shop wouldn't have a problem with what I'm building..... They want "safe" first and foremost. I think there are some special "antique" registrations available, but they don't really offer any value (like being able to skip inspections). Mostly just a fancy plate and stupid restrictions on annual mileage you can drive. It didn't seem all that interesting last time I looked into it.

There are WAY to many interested people here locally that want to see this thing on the road, so I'm sure we will find a way to get a set of legal plates on it.

-G

 

[blazinzuk]

Just tell the inspection guy they spherical tie rod ends. You know race car stuff. LOL


Cause that's the tie rod and those a spherical ends

Makes me love Idaho sometimes even more. No inspections ever where I am ( only some places in Boise do smog) Horton still has normal license plates and always will

 

[Greg72]

2013.07.07 - UPDATE! - KNUCKLE TWO...

Didn't get a whole lot of time to spend on the truck, but was still able to knock out a few new pieces. Here's a shot of the drivers side steering arm tacked together...

Ignore the extra heim in this assembly. I decided to build the arm as a mirror-image of the passenger side, and obviously there isn't a draglink on this side. The idea is to just swap in a thick slug of DOM to replace that upper heim so that I can run a long bolt down through the entire thing and torque it down. This will allow me to weld the boomerang shape on this side as well and it will carry the loading correctly. Keeping that "placeholder" in the steering arm will give me an option to connect my hydro-assist ram to that spot if I want to. It's not my preferred location but we'll have to see how the packaging works out later on..... it's nice to have options.

As Colby observed previously, there are a LOT of heims (and zerks) in this front suspension... And I still have quite a few to buy to finish things up. I really like the idea of using the Evo heims for everything, but at ~$100 each, it's really starting to add up! I'm debating whether I should use the "medium" size heims (like you see almost everywhere) for the panhard bar ends, or go one step larger (like the ones in my lower links)...

My hatred for the Hummer H2 wheels has not subsided, and I'm not giving up on the idea of eventually ending up with a classic white-wheel / 12" Chevy hubcap configuration. Turns out a newer Dodge Ram wheels are 17" and use the Chevy 8 x 6.5" lug pattern with a substantial amount of backspacing.

Some quality time spent welding up those 10 "windows" on the wheel, and coming up with a clip system to hold the factory 1-ton hubcaps and we should be golden!



-G

 

[NorCal69]

Very impressive work, Greg.


I'm glad that your dislike for the H2 on a 1st gen is still strong.

 

[Z71paramedic]

Very impressive work, Greg.


I'm glad that your dislike for the H2 on a 1st gen is still strong.

I still like them...but I guess it's good that I haven't seen any for cheep around here at all lately