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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build

This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Overview Gallery Discussion
FOR MUD said:
No word on the mouse hunt?....I also noticed one of the above picts didn't have a HD bucket in it..I hope they don't drop your sponsorship because of it.
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Mouse count is still at 0..... no traps have been touched yet either, so I'd call that a temporary standoff and not really a loss or victory for either side. :)

superbuickguy said:
corrugated? I don't think anything on this build could be described as convoluted.... perhaps how you arrive at a design, but not as its finished product.
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Perhaps I should have said "involuted"...??? :haha:


Corrugated to me will always mean "cardboard"... just a mental block, I suppose.


UPDATE:

Today while I wait for @ryoken to lay down his expertise about seam sealers and foams, etc. I ordered up a new fabricated "step up" panel from a local sheetmetal shop (the vertical part between the front floors and the bedfloor. They have a HUGE brake and can put the bend in 3/16" sheet that I'd never accomplish on my own.... Also, called High-Angle Driveline and got some background info on a new front driveshaft and how to fit it into a VERY limited space I've got left..... and sent a message to Strange Engineering for some help with part numbers for their HD Pro Aluminum 3rd Members, Pinion supports and bearing install kits....

Time to spend some $$$ and get this build into a higher gear!!! :saweet:


-G
 
I use thick and tan seem sealer, flows really nice, bites hard and you can paint over it.

I otherwise fully support the progress made hah
 
ok, i'm sorry Greg, I'm really stretched right now and i just super briefly know whats going on... on an aside... while most just assume, the lower the grit, the burlier, more it will cut, not always the case.. while i do flatpad with the DA and 36 to hog out fillers, I'll take 60 gold for most rippin duties over the 36.. it's THAT good... NOTHING beats it for mechanically stripping paint..


anyway... i didn't actually see the pics in the thread, but i think I saw what was going on in FB.. i'm just gonna reply here, got a ton flying tonight... THE most importnat factor is making sure that internal channel area is as well douched as possibly be with whatever, priming/paining system you are going with... people will go thru the trouble of creating paint "wands" to run thru cavities to coat them... that will be BY FAR you're best approach to rust control... that said, i would douche the sh*t out of the insides, than just seam seal the joints.. do it in 2 or 3 pass's if need be.. tho it is pretty slow drying, might take ya a week to do 3 fat beads...one side, the other, than a single wide overall outer..
 
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oh, and i wouldn't bother with a 2-part foam.. while i use it a ton on the boats, i don't see a need here... i think the intial thought was to help with gap filling... but the seam sealers are pretty thickbodied... also, you can control/dam beads once pumped with 2" blue painters tape, if they are starting to weep back out... peel once dry.....


and you could do drainholes, but if it's well-coated inside, i usually don't bother, unless it's a rig that's going to be submersed a bunch.... if you do, make sure you coat parts AFTER drilling them...
 
I like the idea of really flooding the inside of each cross-sill with paint to prevent rust.... :waytogo:

Maybe I'll drill some extra holes first to make it easier to get inside those cavities?

:thinking:

531DE929-DE2C-471B-8D92-D7680097B68B.jpg
 
Do you plan on driving this thing in the winter ? lots of rain ?

What would be the purpose of trying to rust proof it to that extent ?
 
most of the times my method for such is to put the gun in jetstream fan right at the end and blast away till it's dripping out the bottom in various places....
 
I've seen guys pour dp90 into doors before to prime and seal the inside Seams here in the land of dryness I use thick and tan, two part, sets up paintable in like 30 minutes. Can sand it, feather it, leave it alone. We use it in the collision side for body repairs.
 
ashman said:
Then you'll have to dimple them or @Deuling will be so disappointed.
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I was trying to figure out how to fit the dimple die inside that little area somehow.... if I could make it fit, it would definitely be a cool detail. :waytogo:

-G
 
2017.05.10 - UPDATE!! - "STRANGE" DEVELOPMENTS...!!!

A bit of research published here for your information (but mostly for my own, later on)
@folkenheath @miniwally

I can't really wait any longer, so it's time to spend some money and get more of the REAL parts into position so I can check clearances of the suspension / drivelines at all possible bump/droop combinations.

This is the one I'm gravitating towards:

STRANGE HD PRO ALUMINUM CASE KIT w/ 3.062" BORE (# P3200)

StrangeAL.jpg



https://www.strangeengineering.net/...case-tapered-support-shims-tail-brg-ret.html/

This kit contains:

Bare Case: #N2300 (3.062" Bore)
Pinion Support: #N2322 (Tapered Bearing for 28-Spline)

Still Needs:

Install Completion Kit: #R3200ST (28-Spline)

https://www.strangeengineering.net/...th-28-spline-tapered-brg-pinion-support.html/


1350-Style Yoke: ??? Maybe this Chromoly one... :dunno:

https://www.strangeengineering.net/product/9-yoke-28-spline-1350-strange-chrome-moly.html/

And "Might As Well" throw in a cool set of HD Caps...

https://www.strangeengineering.net/product/hd-cap-kit-for-strange-1350-rear-end-yokes.html/



Seems like I'm pretty well on my way to getting the 3rd's built..... Final piece is a 31-Spline ARB.... or maybe that Yukon Air Locker that Shawn @supersize75k5 mentioned a few thousand posts ago....


-G
 
I get air locker in the front, but, why not do a Detroit in the rear?
 
AJs72K5 said:
I get air locker in the front, but, why not do a Detroit in the rear?
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Detroit sucks for street driving.... especially if I ever got into snowy weather. BTDT...

An open diff drives nicer for "regular" street driving and no weird bangs or pops. No sway on the highway either as you dip in and out of the throttle...

The Detroit used to be the "cheap but indestructible" option.... but the prices have been steadily climbing over the years. I think I paid around $350 for mine way back in the day... now they more than double that. Not really all that much cheaper than an ARB anymore.... :thinking:


-G
 
AgDieseler said:
This is probably why I don't hate mine. What is this "snow" you speak of?

David
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Head north about 1500 miles....!!! :)

You never notice the "sway effect" on the highway when you get in or out of the throttle? That was a rather unsettling effect even in good weather conditions.... I'm sure my soft suspension made it more noticeable than it might have been with stiffer springs, but it was another thing I never really liked about running the Detroit in my 14BFF...


-G
 
Greg72 said:
Head north about 1500 miles....!!!

You never notice the "sway effect" on the highway when you get in or out of the throttle? That was a rather unsettling effect even in good weather conditions.... I'm sure my soft suspension made it more noticeable than it might have been with stiffer springs, but it was another thing I never really liked about running the Detroit in my 14BFF...
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I remember this "snow". It's usually in small drifts up around 12,000 ft, but I'm only there June-August.

Maybe the longer wheelbase dampens the sway effect, but "getting on it" for my 6.2L means winding all the way up to a screaming 3,000 and a whopping 250ish hp. I probably just don't make the power to upset the balance. No drama diesel.

David
 
Greg72 said:
Head north about 1500 miles....!!! :)

You never notice the "sway effect" on the highway when you get in or out of the throttle? That was a rather unsettling effect even in good weather conditions.... I'm sure my soft suspension made it more noticeable than it might have been with stiffer springs, but it was another thing I never really liked about running the Detroit in my 14BFF...


-G
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Now that I have a detroit, I definitely feel that. It feels like the thrust angle changes when you get on it. It's not horrible, but it's unsettling at times. Since you are way into "Might as well" I'd do the arb out back too to avoid it.
 
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