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'72 K5 - Where do I go from here?
- Thread starter Dirsuper
- Start date
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- #onionclub
Here is the upper radiator hose I found which works just fine:
In the interest of helping someone in the future - Is the alternator internally or externally regulated? Do I need a voltage regulator?
When I put the battery back on the charger last Sunday I noticed that it was pretty low for the small amount I had used it. So I kicked this around all week and started messing with it this morning. I'll try to explain this, but hope someone who knows more than me will clear up anything I state in an incorrect or confusing manner........
Right around '72 is when they were switching from external to internally regulated alternators. Also, '71-'72 alternators can be found with the newer frame, yet still be externally regulated. This confused the hell out of me for hours as I scoured this and many other websites. One of the things that threw me off is that it (the alternator I have) has a '1' and a '2' marking the connections, instead of the 'R' and 'F' (or whatever letters it is on the internally regulated one).
I ran to Napa and got a voltage regulator (Napa part # VR142), found a wiring diagram in this site, and changed all of the wiring. I started it up and I am getting ~14.6V across the battery, which I believe is about perfect. When I tested it before I made this change, the voltage across the battery was the same running or not. The wiring is basically (looking at the connectors on the VR, #1 being the left most one, through #4 on the far right), jumper #s 3 & 4, off of that jumper runs the wire which is from the ignition (telling the alternator that the vehicle is running (AKA "excitor")). Then #1 goes to #1 (one on the right looking at it from the back) of the alternator, and #2 goes to #2 (the one on the left looking at it from the back). There is also a diagram in the Painless Wiring directions, which I found AFTER searching the Internet forever.......
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I took it for a cruise up and down my street. Assuming I get to work on it next weekend, I am hooking up the power steering......steering this thing right now is a bitch! Regardless, I am still super stoked that it actually runs and drives - I can just reach in, turn the key, and it fires right up!
I am looking to buy a hardware kit (bolts, washers, nuts, screws, spacers, etc.) for the front clip. If anyone knows of a good one, please let me know. Also, any lessons learned.....brackets I may have forgot about, things I might need, etc., please let me know. I really don't want to pay this guy to come help me put the front clip on only to be missing one key thing. I already bought a new hood latch assembly, and tonight I am ordering new hinges....as well as whatever else on the 'Truck Shop' website which looks like a no-brainer. Regardless, I appreciate any tips you are willing to pass along.
When I put the battery back on the charger last Sunday I noticed that it was pretty low for the small amount I had used it. So I kicked this around all week and started messing with it this morning. I'll try to explain this, but hope someone who knows more than me will clear up anything I state in an incorrect or confusing manner........
Right around '72 is when they were switching from external to internally regulated alternators. Also, '71-'72 alternators can be found with the newer frame, yet still be externally regulated. This confused the hell out of me for hours as I scoured this and many other websites. One of the things that threw me off is that it (the alternator I have) has a '1' and a '2' marking the connections, instead of the 'R' and 'F' (or whatever letters it is on the internally regulated one).
I ran to Napa and got a voltage regulator (Napa part # VR142), found a wiring diagram in this site, and changed all of the wiring. I started it up and I am getting ~14.6V across the battery, which I believe is about perfect. When I tested it before I made this change, the voltage across the battery was the same running or not. The wiring is basically (looking at the connectors on the VR, #1 being the left most one, through #4 on the far right), jumper #s 3 & 4, off of that jumper runs the wire which is from the ignition (telling the alternator that the vehicle is running (AKA "excitor")). Then #1 goes to #1 (one on the right looking at it from the back) of the alternator, and #2 goes to #2 (the one on the left looking at it from the back). There is also a diagram in the Painless Wiring directions, which I found AFTER searching the Internet forever.......
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
I took it for a cruise up and down my street. Assuming I get to work on it next weekend, I am hooking up the power steering......steering this thing right now is a bitch! Regardless, I am still super stoked that it actually runs and drives - I can just reach in, turn the key, and it fires right up!
I am looking to buy a hardware kit (bolts, washers, nuts, screws, spacers, etc.) for the front clip. If anyone knows of a good one, please let me know. Also, any lessons learned.....brackets I may have forgot about, things I might need, etc., please let me know. I really don't want to pay this guy to come help me put the front clip on only to be missing one key thing. I already bought a new hood latch assembly, and tonight I am ordering new hinges....as well as whatever else on the 'Truck Shop' website which looks like a no-brainer. Regardless, I appreciate any tips you are willing to pass along.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
My 71 was externally regulated until I changed it over to the better style.
My '72 was internally regulated when I got it, but it was not an unmolested truck, so may have been changed at some point.
Got the power steering working today. I also did about a two mile round trip with it (longest non-trailered journey it's had in 2.5 years). I noticed that at low speeds it feels as if one tire is......oblong. Weird. I am sure the caster and camber are way out. I plan to have a local shop do a basic alignment on it, and then dig into that caster/camber adjustment info Greg posted in this thread. It would be awesome to just find a shop to align it all...........I'll stop at the body shop this Friday (worked too late the last two Fridays) and see if one of his guys is willing to work a weekend to help me put on the front clip. As much as it's going to make doing......anything....much harder, I am ready for that step.
Does anyone know if we need the windshield seal for a Custom or Standard cab? Today I finally got a chance to dig up all of the little pieces parts for installing the front clip......not much. I have a cart going both at the Truck Shop and LMC.......
Don’t quote me but the CST has the stainless trim around the windshield which will require a different seal (to hold the stainless from the outside)
-G
That kinda sounds like custom then........?
Interesting.....looking at this "before" picture, I did not have the trim, but, if I want to stay true to the CST heritage, it would.........I need to kick this around. I am not a fan of flash, I like simple......however.....
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I’ve read that windshield trim is pretty tough to install, especially if you use aftermarket trim. Just beware...
Good to know - thanks man!
Get the custom. It just has a slot in it for the trim. If you decide not to install the trim, you'll still be fine.
Thanks man, that's what I did. I have 4 boxes of parts sitting on my welding table ready to be unmasked this weekend...........Guy at the body shop estimated two days to put the front clip on, does that sound right to you guys? Hell, cowl, 2 fenders, hood, tailgate. I just want the body dude to ensure that all of my alignments/gaps are correct, I can't imagine that taking more than 8 hours. And no, I'm not trying to be cheap, it's just that I can take one day off without too much pain, 2 days would be tough since I start a new job (same company, HUGE promotion) the same week I planned to have the dude come over (week of the 23rd) and do this........taking two days off is not plausible. I'll do the grill, fenders, etc. later, right now I just want the basic shit on and aligned properly.
Shouldn't take more than 1 long day, but if I was estimating, I'd say 2 as well just in case.
Having missing bolts or spacers, etc, will eat up a ton of time. If you truly don't have to go searching for or buying anything it's pretty quick and simple.
Hard to plan for everything in advance though.
Having missing bolts or spacers, etc, will eat up a ton of time. If you truly don't have to go searching for or buying anything it's pretty quick and simple.
Hard to plan for everything in advance though.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Seems like less than one day or work, as long as all the holes still line up and parts aren’t missing.
If the tub and door gaps are all good, the only work is hood alignment and gaps. Assuming all your parts are good and straight, complete front clip should only take a few hours.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Kinda what I was thinking. Of course everything take double what you expect, so maybe we’ll see what reality is.
I appreciate the information on install times for the front clip. Things changed a bit when, after the announcement about my new job went out, I got about 15 meeting invites for next week........including 4 from my new boss who is based in San Francisco..........no day off for me! The body dude was not available this weekend, but as of right now I plan to ask him to come over next Saturday. I will only have Saturday as I have to help friend move (Solana Beach to Downtown......I think he's insane, but whatever) that Sunday. I was hoping to get him to put (or me help him put) the windshield in as well, but if I have to wait it's not a big deal.
I am starting to look for all of the door parts, vent windows (old ones are nasty and are not going back in), etc. - Same question, Custom or Standard? It's different just for all of the window channel rubber and stuff......I probably have about $1000 of 'wrong' parts sitting around the shop, so I hope to get it right the first time. As always, any assistance is appreciated.
Today I got out the fuel filler neck so that I could install the rubber gasket that goes kinda under the gas cap......what a PITA! With the floors Rhinolined it took me hours with exacto knives, razor blades, etc......3 good gashes and a few hours later, I got it out - only to learn that the gasket I got is for a '72 truck, not a '72 Blazer.........Whatever. I also put in the new dipstick (that fancy looking aluminum one I got is a POS and leaked (finally figured out where my oil leak was coming from).....cleaned up some wiring (putting them in the covering I bought from Painless).....
I think I am going to remove the Zero Rate. I hate that the ass end is higher than the front, and I did some measuring (and math) today and determined that removing the Zero Rate should make it sit just about perfectly level. The last thing I want is for it to sit even higher, so my options are limited. The wife decided to just use the box and string method (for the 3-4 times a year she might ride in it), so no need for a nerf bar on the side.
Smashed the shit out of one of my fingers putting in the dipstick.....I hope the damn finger nail does not come off!
Oh, I also put the springs on the new hood hinges......that was freaking scary! Those springs are no joke.
Forward.........
I am starting to look for all of the door parts, vent windows (old ones are nasty and are not going back in), etc. - Same question, Custom or Standard? It's different just for all of the window channel rubber and stuff......I probably have about $1000 of 'wrong' parts sitting around the shop, so I hope to get it right the first time. As always, any assistance is appreciated.
Today I got out the fuel filler neck so that I could install the rubber gasket that goes kinda under the gas cap......what a PITA! With the floors Rhinolined it took me hours with exacto knives, razor blades, etc......3 good gashes and a few hours later, I got it out - only to learn that the gasket I got is for a '72 truck, not a '72 Blazer.........Whatever. I also put in the new dipstick (that fancy looking aluminum one I got is a POS and leaked (finally figured out where my oil leak was coming from).....cleaned up some wiring (putting them in the covering I bought from Painless).....
I think I am going to remove the Zero Rate. I hate that the ass end is higher than the front, and I did some measuring (and math) today and determined that removing the Zero Rate should make it sit just about perfectly level. The last thing I want is for it to sit even higher, so my options are limited. The wife decided to just use the box and string method (for the 3-4 times a year she might ride in it), so no need for a nerf bar on the side.
Smashed the shit out of one of my fingers putting in the dipstick.....I hope the damn finger nail does not come off!
Oh, I also put the springs on the new hood hinges......that was freaking scary! Those springs are no joke.
Forward.........
