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73 K20....crossmember time

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dremu said:
Well, I went nuts with brand new everything, incl wiring harness, in a kit from Howell. If you get junkyard / used parts, then yeah, you can be a ton cheaper. I'm sure that for what I spent I coulda got a used L-whatever motor and then gone through all kinds of pain and hassle trying to make it work. (Look what RJFguitar went through with a "turnkey" setup from Pacfab, who are generally supposed to be a good vendor.)

Versus I set up my TBI, double-checked everything, and turned the key. It promptly started, and that was that. Not spectacular horsepower or zoomie noises, but she starts every time without excitement and runs good every time without excitement.

You might look at the various TBI conversion sites ... IH8MUD has a bunch of tech, actually, that I found informative even though I don't have a (fill in the blank: Heep, Yota, Binder.) My particular setup has no EGR, basically nothin', so you'd have to have more stuff to pass the test.

-- A
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Ok cool thanks! I love the idea of new stuff. The last thing i want is to get stranded again lol.


I need to do a few tests on the motor and see where im at as far as its health. That will determine what i do.
 
Well I finally found what I was looking for....



Had to drive to friggin Placerville to get it but its the first 32 spline ive seen in a few months. Everything seems tight but free spinning. Kinda contemplating putting it in once I check it all out.

Its out of an 83 apparently. I think its a 208 but didnt have time to look. Im curious to know if its similar length to what I have now. If its right on the money ill start yanking the auto and sick 208 out for this stuff....
 
It is an NP208. That setup will swap directly in place of a TH700R4/NP208. You can reuse your current driveshafts. If you have the correct crossmember, they are also a direct swap.

Martin
 
You don't even have to move your transfer case shifter. I have done it twice now where the transfer case shifter didn't even have to be adjusted.

Martin
 
82355 said:
It is an NP208. That setup will swap directly in place of a TH700R4/NP208. You can reuse your current driveshafts. If you have the correct crossmember, they are also a direct swap.

Martin
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Ok good to know. hmmm I have the non swoopy flatter crossmember...

82355 said:
You don't even have to move your transfer case shifter. I have done it twice now where the transfer case shifter didn't even have to be adjusted.

Martin
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That is awesome. im definitely throwing this thing in. might have to get custom with the pedals. Im gonna definitely do the hydro thing too.
 
Just find a set of 1985-1987(1991) pedals. They can come out of a 2wd.

Martin
 
82355 said:
You don't have a picture of the other side of the bellhousing.

Martin
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I dont but I can get one tomorrow morning. ive been seeing the pedals go for like 250 bucks on ebay. I think ill check out pick n pull since most people dont know there worth anything and theres quite a few squares there.
 
Anyone have a clutch recommendation? 12 inch is apparently where it's at. Which means a 168 tooth flywheel?

Does anyone run a heavier flywheel to keep bucking down to a minimum?
​
 
Just FYI, pretty sure that is a mechanical clutch bellhousing, not a hydro one. Hydro bellhousing has slave cylinder on the passenger's side. Not that it really matters since it's a matter of personal preference but you also have the cast iron top plate/shifter instead of the more desirable aluminum top plate/shifter. What did you pay for the combo? Hope it wasn't more than $300 or so.
 
truck-oholic said:
Just FYI, pretty sure that is a mechanical clutch bellhousing, not a hydro one. Hydro bellhousing has slave cylinder on the passenger's side. Not that it really matters since it's a matter of personal preference but you also have the cast iron top plate/shifter instead of the more desirable aluminum top plate/shifter. What did you pay for the combo? Hope it wasn't more than $300 or so.
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Yeah its not hydraulic. It will be though. not sure of the difference in top plates. As far as I know the guts are the same. I paid 200 bucks for the setup. Ive been looking for a 32 spline 465 for months so I jumped on this one as soon as it came up. For some reason there very hard to find out here.
 
Ok, that is a fair price. The hydro bell housing and pedals are where the main expense is. The later model aluminum top plate has a shorter throw shifter that is moved forward several inches. It is the one in my build.
 
truck-oholic said:
Ok, that is a fair price. The hydro bell housing and pedals are where the main expense is. The later model aluminum top plate has a shorter throw shifter that is moved forward several inches. It is the one in my build.
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Yeah it seems very fresh for how old it is. I know the pedals arent cheap...gonna try the local yard first then ill get custom with it.
 
82355 said:
People want the aluminum top covers??? I've tossed a few.

Martin
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I guess from what I read online the transmissions that had the alum cover were smoother shifting and had some bearing differences. I dont really care about that stuff for my junk but maybe for a more street driven truck it would make a difference.
 
Just ordered a clutch kit. Got the LUK gold pro for $86. Seems like it should be perfect for what i need.

Now onto the flywheel. Trying to decided between ductile iron and steel. Ill probably get the steel one.

Might do a small wheeling trip through slick rock in october. Its a super short trail. maybe 2 hours long so im hoping to make that if i get what i need to done.

Work on the truck has been basically halted due to starting my instrument tech program. I have to play catch up on the weekends.

Im watching a bellhousing on ebay right now, while also watching craigslist. Hopefully i dont get railed on the price.
 
82355 said:
I still can't understand how that got in there.

Martin
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There is a line that runs from the gas tank to the cannister, then from the cannister to the carb. More than likely when the tank got hot it pressureized the cannister and shot the charcoal into the carb. been lurking .
 
82355 said:
Not into the fuel bowl.

Martin
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yup... I haven't posted but, that makes NO sense. :dunno: that's a vac port it runs to, not a bowl feed of any sort...


I don't just chock that up to "oh well, it happened!" :whistle:
 
ryoken said:
yup... I haven't posted but, that makes NO sense. :dunno: that's a vac port it runs to, not a bowl feed of any sort...


I don't just chock that up to "oh well, it happened!" :whistle:
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Possible the hose was connected to the wrong port. Hard to say without looking at the whole carb with the hoses attached.
 
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