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73 K20....crossmember time

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Yeah seems like its pretty clear. Just have to make the rear cab body mount, which isnt hard and its another good opportunity to tie the frame together...

I think im gonna do it. Im borrowing a plasma cutter monday...cant wait I have so much crap to cut off like the old shock mounts. Should make getting rivets out easier. I started sawzalling the crossmembers out this weekend. Looks like the crack is actually 2 cracks. The idiot who did the steering box frame support didnt weld it at all on the inside.

What do we think about me cutting off a section of the k20 frame and replacing the front section with it? As long as its plated and welded in properly it should be as strong as it gets.
 
Wrt patching the frame, measure both to ensure they're of similar thickness and such. Depending on year and who you talk to, there may be an appreciable difference or there may not. The 1/2 and 3/4 ton's are supposed to be close if not identical (the 1-ton frames are different), but I've heard horror stories, and you don't want to get two trucks cut up and then realize you're in a pickle.

Also, you'll wanna make sure they're square and such when welding back together, which you know, but you may not know that the Brochures page has a whole book of body shop stuff, including frame dimensions from various points, specifically to keep the front end square when you're working on it. See http://brochures.slosh.com/ and go to "frame & body dimensions".

-- A
 
Hey thanks Dremu!

Skunked im seriously thinking about it. Im balls deep. May as well try to stretch that last millimeter out lol.

The frame is seriously double the thickness as mine. Its got some surface rust but thats no big deal. I really want the short wheelbase of the blazer though. I can just move the springs up in the rear to match the blazer and hack off what i dont need. Just have to coordinate how im going to do this. My garage isnt very tall and its not a full 2 car. i doubt anyone will buy the blazer body...i could be wrong. Maybe i should try to sell it with the frame? damn thing is cracked anyway. Maybe ill just plasma the whole thing apart...
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
Hey thanks Dremu!

Skunked im seriously thinking about it. Im balls deep. May as well try to stretch that last millimeter out lol.

The frame is seriously double the thickness as mine. Its got some surface rust but thats no big deal. I really want the short wheelbase of the blazer though. I can just move the springs up in the rear to match the blazer and hack off what i dont need. Just have to coordinate how im going to do this. My garage isnt very tall and its not a full 2 car. i doubt anyone will buy the blazer body...i could be wrong. Maybe i should try to sell it with the frame? damn thing is cracked anyway. Maybe ill just plasma the whole thing apart...
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If you're thinking of going Trazer anyway, why not simply put the K5 body, frame, and misc. parts back together, sell that, and build the K20? Sounds easier than hacking 2 frames apart *and* you'll have something that's at least mostly sale-worthy. And did I mention that the new frame isn't cracked? :whistle:
 
@dremu, I want to thank you (again) for hosting that brochure page. It has been a help to me, and I appreciate having them available. (and I'm sure many others enjoy them as well.)


:bow: :bow:
 
campfire said:
If you're thinking of going Trazer anyway, why not simply put the K5 body, frame, and misc. parts back together, sell that, and build the K20? Sounds easier than hacking 2 frames apart *and* you'll have something that's at least mostly sale-worthy. And did I mention that the new frame isn't cracked? :whistle:
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Well i dont have enough parts to make the k5 a roller and youd have to kill me to get my dana 60 lol. So i think i should just build the k20 frame. I think the k5 may have to be scrap. Not many people are going to want a cracked k5 frame in the winter. It sucks but i got the k20 cab and frame for $150 so its not really a loss.
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
Well i dont have enough parts to make the k5 a roller and youd have to kill me to get my dana 60 lol. So i think i should just build the k20 frame. I think the k5 may have to be scrap. Not many people are going to want a cracked k5 frame in the winter. It sucks but i got the k20 cab and frame for $150 so its not really a loss.
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Would it be worth throwing a set of stock axles at it and calling it a roller? Or will the price increase be negligible? :dunno:
 
campfire said:
Would it be worth throwing a set of stock axles at it and calling it a roller? Or will the price increase be negligible? :dunno:
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I don't think it would make much of a difference. Still has to be sold as "parts" without a smog cert....
 
Yeah if anything its more of a pain to try and sell as opposed to scrapping it.It sucks that it has to go that way but it is what it is. I guess i saved one truck from going to scrap so its not a total squarebody loss.
 
Why not shorten the K20 frame to Blazer wheelbase or a little longer and use all your existing parts?
 
jekquistk5 said:
I did the same. K20 long bed took 2 feet from the middle. With the 63's it puts me at 115" wheelbase irrc. I go everywhere Blazers go.
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I always wondered about your avatar lol!

I think I'll copy what you did. Im pretty sure my k20 is short box. I'm guessing that I'd need to move the rear forward most spring hanger up to k5 level then chop out what I need to to make the shackle flip line up with the rivet holes...
 
No such thing as a K20 short bed

BTW, now would be a perfect time to go with 63" springs
 
Chevy305 said:
No such thing as a K20 short bed

BTW, now would be a perfect time to go with 63" springs
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Shows how much I know lol.

Yeah I think I'll stay with 56s since Ive got my bastard pack figured out. My 47 inch fronts are limiting my flex for the most part. I'd like to enter the coilover world next year anyway.

Do k20 use 47in fronts?
 
Looks like they do use 47s in the front. Thats convenient.

I noticed the frame didnt have the front spring bushing thingies, just a hole.

Ive looked at DIYs...they look nice but say theyre for 52s, which i think are a bit narrower than my 47s....I wonder if its a matter of swapping the bushing out on the hanger?
 
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