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'73 K5 - Stevoandaredk5's Build - [Pre-Summer Update - (4/5/11)]
- Thread starter StevoandaRedK5
- Start date
StevoandaRedK5
1/2 ton status
The brotherhood comes thru yet again. 
Changed the oil to 20w50 tonight. She idles hot at 30-35psi. Nice! Thanks guys. Also have narrowed down and think that slight oil leak is up near the front seal, where the timing cover meets the oil pan. Made sure all the bolts i could get to were tight, so hopefully that'll take care of it.
For me to remember, and for your viewing enjoyment, a quick, don't-spend-much-money to do list:
-Exhaust tick(probably header gasket)
-Fuel sender ground, get fuel gauge working
-Install matching tach, since i've already bought it
-Paint and reinstall rear receiver hitch
-Strengthen front seat mounts
-Cupholders
Other stuff to do:
-Soft top
-Drivers side door hinges(mine are probably original, and thus completely wallowed out)
-Locking rear storage for tools and such
-Recover rear seat(preferably to match gray front seats)
-Find some donor rear fenders to modify/repair the current ones(want to stretch em a bit to keep a stock style lip, but have a larger opening)
-Slight possibility of a lift(2-4"), though I want to keep it as low as I can, cause I like the look.
Changed the oil to 20w50 tonight. She idles hot at 30-35psi. Nice! Thanks guys. Also have narrowed down and think that slight oil leak is up near the front seal, where the timing cover meets the oil pan. Made sure all the bolts i could get to were tight, so hopefully that'll take care of it.For me to remember, and for your viewing enjoyment, a quick, don't-spend-much-money to do list:
-Exhaust tick(probably header gasket)
-Fuel sender ground, get fuel gauge working
-Install matching tach, since i've already bought it
-Paint and reinstall rear receiver hitch
-Strengthen front seat mounts
-Cupholders
Other stuff to do:
-Soft top
-Drivers side door hinges(mine are probably original, and thus completely wallowed out)
-Locking rear storage for tools and such
-Recover rear seat(preferably to match gray front seats)
-Find some donor rear fenders to modify/repair the current ones(want to stretch em a bit to keep a stock style lip, but have a larger opening)
-Slight possibility of a lift(2-4"), though I want to keep it as low as I can, cause I like the look.
StevoandaRedK5
1/2 ton status
the '73 is still running great. Need to fix the vacuum line to the trans so it will shift on it's own. But for now I'm just enjoying it.
Went to see the grandparents in Nacogdoches yesterday. Grandfather hooked me up with an aluminum toolbox that will fit down in the bed behind the rear seat(below the bedsides). Looks almost exactly like this:
It'll need to be set up off the floor a bit to fit and be where i want it, but it's light, lockable storage for all my tools and parts and such. Grandparents are the best! haha
need to rotate my tires soon too....hmmm
Went to see the grandparents in Nacogdoches yesterday. Grandfather hooked me up with an aluminum toolbox that will fit down in the bed behind the rear seat(below the bedsides). Looks almost exactly like this:
It'll need to be set up off the floor a bit to fit and be where i want it, but it's light, lockable storage for all my tools and parts and such. Grandparents are the best! haha
need to rotate my tires soon too....hmmm
StevoandaRedK5
1/2 ton status
been doing some late night brain storming. I'm considering a lift, but don't want to end up spending a whole lot of money on it. Thinking just a small lift, hopefully to avoid having to have the driveshafts reworked.
Here's what I've come up with:
2.5" front lift springs (might get the shocks too, dunno):
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=270740
2.5" Shackle flip from ORD
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/shacklekit.htm
New U-bolts, longer brake lines, and some good bumpstops.
I'm just thinking out loud, but I know I need some more clearance for these tires...
Feedback is much appreciated. Night all.
Here's what I've come up with:
2.5" front lift springs (might get the shocks too, dunno):
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=270740
2.5" Shackle flip from ORD
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/shacklekit.htm
New U-bolts, longer brake lines, and some good bumpstops.
I'm just thinking out loud, but I know I need some more clearance for these tires...
Feedback is much appreciated. Night all.
I'm looking to get a similar box for behind the rear seat of my Blazer. Awaiting installed pics. 
Sounds like a good plan on the suspension. The shackle flip will rotate your pinion up which may or may not be a good thing depending on your driveshaft angles. I'd plan on "new" shocks and some kind of steering correction too.
Sounds like a good plan on the suspension. The shackle flip will rotate your pinion up which may or may not be a good thing depending on your driveshaft angles. I'd plan on "new" shocks and some kind of steering correction too.
StevoandaRedK5
1/2 ton status
I'm looking to get a similar box for behind the rear seat of my Blazer. Awaiting installed pics.
Sounds like a good plan on the suspension. The shackle flip will rotate your pinion up which may or may not be a good thing depending on your driveshaft angles. I'd plan on "new" shocks and some kind of steering correction too.
It's a bed box for a smaller pickup(A Taco, or the like). I can post up dimensions as well. It'll need to come up about five inches or so to be where I want it.
Thanks for the insight on the suspension. I'm booksmart on some of that stuff, but without actually installing a lift myself yet, I want to make sure I don't miss the details.
i actually have one close to that for mine. only it doesnt have the wings. i used it on my dodge to sit between the stacks, and it ends up fitting perfectly behind the front seats since i dont have a rear seat to worry about.the '73 is still running great. Need to fix the vacuum line to the trans so it will shift on it's own. But for now I'm just enjoying it.
Went to see the grandparents in Nacogdoches yesterday. Grandfather hooked me up with an aluminum toolbox that will fit down in the bed behind the rear seat(below the bedsides). Looks almost exactly like this:
It'll need to be set up off the floor a bit to fit and be where i want it, but it's light, lockable storage for all my tools and parts and such. Grandparents are the best! haha
need to rotate my tires soon too....hmmm
i actually sprayed mine black with a spray on bed liner to match the floor in the k5.
I think I looked at that exact one at TSC the other day.
Before I got my house I had every tool and strap and tie down I owned living in that box full time. And still had room for other gear. Much bugger then it looks
also helps when you buy it for half off on "managers special" lol
steveo are you running a backseat? I think I remmber you are. Trying to get an idea where your new box will sit.
also helps when you buy it for half off on "managers special" lol
steveo are you running a backseat? I think I remmber you are. Trying to get an idea where your new box will sit.
StevoandaRedK5
1/2 ton status
Yeah. running the factory original backseat. Basically i'm going to build some type of "subframe" that will secure the toolbox and elevate it about five inches or so. I want it to sit between the back seat and the tailgate, but be easy to get into(key into lock, latch handles) The fact that I want to raise it up some is also kind of needed since the box would hit the back of the wheel wells if set straight on the floor.
I'll make sure to post pictures. Hopefully going to pick up some metal tomorrow or the next day, to start on the bikini top header and the frame for this.
That's why I was asking bout the backseat. I was trying to git an idear bout whether or not the "wings" would sit over the wheel wells or not.
StevoandaRedK5
1/2 ton status
Ignition switch gear (the plastic one that broke on me a good while back), back two teeth are stripped. Tore down the column yesterday to find that out. Tired of doing that, and since it still actuates the plunger to the "Run" position and all, just put in a push button start. haha.
However, after doing that work yesterday, I no longer have front turn signals. They aren't blinking for some reason. Gonna have to troubleshoot that today.
1/8" Aluminum plate is gonna be around $70 for the piece for the soft top(6ftx1ft). Been working this week to make the money for it. haha
However, after doing that work yesterday, I no longer have front turn signals. They aren't blinking for some reason. Gonna have to troubleshoot that today.
1/8" Aluminum plate is gonna be around $70 for the piece for the soft top(6ftx1ft). Been working this week to make the money for it. haha
StevoandaRedK5
1/2 ton status
Got the turn signals figured out, the connector from the cam to the harness had a couple of pins that pushed out and weren't making contact.
Fixed the exhaust leak this morning. New header gasket on the passenger side and tightened the collector.
The $70 price tag on that aluminum plate had me and my dad brainstorming. He offered the idea of a piece of treated wood, which we staple the vinyl to. Then just use the factory hardware and plates from the hardtop to bolt it on. If the wood is painted and then covered with material, no one will be the wiser.....and it's cheaper. Probably use treated wood to mount the toolbox in the bed. I just don't have the tools to really work with metal easily yet.
Fixed the exhaust leak this morning. New header gasket on the passenger side and tightened the collector.
The $70 price tag on that aluminum plate had me and my dad brainstorming. He offered the idea of a piece of treated wood, which we staple the vinyl to. Then just use the factory hardware and plates from the hardtop to bolt it on. If the wood is painted and then covered with material, no one will be the wiser.....and it's cheaper.
Probably use treated wood to mount the toolbox in the bed. I just don't have the tools to really work with metal easily yet.
StevoandaRedK5
1/2 ton status
6/15 - Dizzy Moved. AGAIN.
Well. Good news first. Exhaust leak is fixed. Did some painting on the inside of the doors and above the windshield and such. Started work on the bikini top.
Now the bad news.
The distributor has moved yet again.
Got home from running somewhere this morning and the idle had changed, and I immediately knew the timing was off. Popped the hood later on this morning after it had cooled off. I could turn the dizzy by hand(not like super loose, but with a moderate twist, it would turn.) This is really, really, really frustrating. Did I mention it's frustrating?
So our brand new clamp/stud isn't doing it's job. Do I need a lock washer? Liberal amount of locktite? Are the threads in the block messed up?
I have to decide whether to go buy a timing light and learn to set the timing myself or take the easy route, let Tino set it for cheap, and then make sure the holddown stays tight.
I won't be so angry in a bit after I relax, but right now I am livid. I have had to deal with this issue way too much.
Pics of the bikini top header later.
Well. Good news first. Exhaust leak is fixed. Did some painting on the inside of the doors and above the windshield and such. Started work on the bikini top.
Now the bad news.
The distributor has moved yet again.
Got home from running somewhere this morning and the idle had changed, and I immediately knew the timing was off. Popped the hood later on this morning after it had cooled off. I could turn the dizzy by hand(not like super loose, but with a moderate twist, it would turn.) This is really, really, really frustrating. Did I mention it's frustrating?
So our brand new clamp/stud isn't doing it's job. Do I need a lock washer? Liberal amount of locktite? Are the threads in the block messed up?
I have to decide whether to go buy a timing light and learn to set the timing myself or take the easy route, let Tino set it for cheap, and then make sure the holddown stays tight.
I won't be so angry in a bit after I relax, but right now I am livid. I have had to deal with this issue way too much.
Pics of the bikini top header later.
AS LONG as you can have someone show you how to do timing that you trust. it probably wouldnt be a bad skill to have? you never know how many times your going to need to reset the timing. not only cuz of loose dist but maybe other changes.
then again, if he's cheap. its always easier to let someone else dick with it .lol
then again, if he's cheap. its always easier to let someone else dick with it .lol
run a thread chaser tap down the manifold threads. If the threads are even questionable at all, get a new manifold. If they are still good, spray some brake cleaner into the threads, then blow out with compressed air, then apply lock tite and tighten the balls out of it.
StevoandaRedK5
1/2 ton status
I've read some pretty good reviews of the $15 timing light from HF. Probably gonna pick one up, find TDC, mark the dampener, and set the timing myself.
This was a brand new Edelbrock Performer when the motor went together. The threads feel clean. I'll check em when I go to put lock tite and tighten it down. Thanks bro.
somethings not right with your holddown.. it isn't the bolt, unless it's too long and bottoming out.... when it's a proper setup, the tension of the holdown should act as a lockwasher... in 30 yrs of installing dizzy's, thousands, I've never had one come loose... I'm guessing the holdown is either wrong, or deformed..
Can you get a camera back there and take a pic? The hold down should not be fully bottomed on the manifold.
StevoandaRedK5
1/2 ton status
I can get out there and take a pic. However this is the second hold down I've used. The first was a stock style. The current one is an aftermarket that uses a stud, and a nut/lock washer combo.
