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75 Jimmy build FOOLSIZE (time to wheel)

Wheelbase: 108" Width F/R: 89.5" / 88" 3 link -upper: 32" -lowers: 32.5" -vert sep: 8.5" -panhard: 38" 4link -uppers:38.5" -lowers: 40" -vert sep: 9.5" Front DS 1410 HADCV ride: 33" Rear DS 1410 ride: 38"
Rubicon day two was bad ass! We continued on the trail into big sluice. The rocks got bigger, it was tight going down in the full size trucks. stopped a passer by Toyota and he said he dented his door because the trail got so narrow. :surepal: I continued leading, going down big sluice then across Rubicon bridge to Rubicon springs where we stopped for lunch. To our surprise it wasn't over run with the BFG Terrain takeover, we had lunch here then turned around to run back up big sluice to buck island lake. Going up the trail proved to be a bit more challenging. After making a joke about finding a broken tail lens I broke mine out shortly after. @skunked thought it was funny and then he caught his lens on the same roots I caught mine on but only took off the chrome trim. I got stuck at a spot and was unable to bump it over a rock so I had to back down and take a different line. After we got everyone through that section, I tried to take an inside line on a turn but got caught turtling. I gave up and backed down and adjusted my line choice. We made it back to camp at buck island and called it a day. flagwaver

@NorCal_Chris showed up after the sun went down driving his jeep buggy with no lights on but we could hear him coming from across the slabs. He was with another one of my friends in an exo'd 4 runner. When they arrived we all b.s.'d and had an r/c crawler shootout until about midnight.

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I prefer this route that @Justin V did if I ever have issues with mine at all. Maybe a weld in filler panel though depending on how nice I want it to look.
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I prefer this route that @Justin V did if I ever have issues with mine at all. Maybe a weld in filler panel though depending on how nice I want it to look.
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It's a personal preference but I just don't like the looks of those panels. New lights are $24 a pair on amazon, I'll just replace them until I find a solution I like. Chris made a suggestion of adding a tab from the body that stretches over the bed/light transition because that's usually how they are picked off. Might do something like that with a piece of stainless.
 
I prefer this route that @Justin V did if I ever have issues with mine at all. Maybe a weld in filler panel though depending on how nice I want it to look.
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You mean like these? ;)

I too got so sick of replacing tail lights, I did the same thing and filled them in with metal and installed the same trailer LED lights. Had them this way for almost a year now and haven't had the problem anymore...and to be honest...I love the look of them now

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It's a personal preference but I just don't like the looks of those panels. New lights are $24 a pair on amazon, I'll just replace them until I find a solution I like. Chris made a suggestion of adding a tab from the body that stretches over the bed/light transition because that's usually how they are picked off. Might do something like that with a piece of stainless.

I did the same thing...until I broke the 3rd light in a row (in 3 trips out), so said SCREW THIS, and did what I showed above. If keeping full size, and with the factory wrap around tail lights...you are gonna jack them no matter what, haha. But I do agree with you guys...I do love the factory tail light look on them.
 
He needs to measure it, he was thinking it was 116-117" IIRC
Yeah, I would be interested to know. I'm only at 110-111" with quite a bit of stretch in the front, and a small amount of rear stretch

I'll measure in a few but it is closer to the 111" range. I checked it after the trip but can't remember. The front could be pushed out a little more.

I'll just keep running the stock lenses until it becomes a buggy
 
Updated in first post too. Any measurements I'm forgetting? Our driveway is slanted or else I would get belly height

Wheelbase: 108"
Width F/R: 89.5" / 88"
3 link
-upper: 32"
-lowers: 32.5"
-vert sep: 8.5"
-panhard: 38"
4link
-uppers:38.5"
-lowers: 40"
-vert sep: 9.5"
Front DS 1410 HADCV ride: 33"
Rear DS 1410 ride: 38"
 
Yeah, if it were me, I would try to push that front axle out another 2" or so (that is why I asked what the wheelbase was cause I was thinking the front could go farther and be a bit more balanced overall). The rear looks pretty good to me, maybe just push the front a bit (assuming steering and driveshaft can handle the stretch) and I bet it would feel even more balanced. Either way...I really like the link design you did...looks real good!
 
Yeah, if it were me, I would try to push that front axle out another 2" or so (that is why I asked what the wheelbase was cause I was thinking the front could go farther and be a bit more balanced overall). The rear looks pretty good to me, maybe just push the front a bit (assuming steering and driveshaft can handle the stretch) and I bet it would feel even more balanced. Either way...I really like the link design you did...looks real good!

Thanks! I can't take credit for the link designing. It would be way nice to push it forward but keeping the mechanical steering got in the way with the steering box and body mount. In the future I'm sure it will get pushed out a bit more. My friend that built it wanted to stretch it to nearly no approach angle but I still wanna keep the fenders a little while longer
 
Thanks! I can't take credit for the link designing. It would be way nice to push it forward but keeping the mechanical steering got in the way with the steering box and body mount. In the future I'm sure it will get pushed out a bit more. My friend that built it wanted to stretch it to nearly no approach angle but I still wanna keep the fenders a little while longer

Understandable. Looks like it still works good as is currently. I say rock it until you want full hydro, then do the swap and push that axles as far forward as you can :waytogo:
 
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