Not Onan green?
Martin
Martin
CK5
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76 CCDRW...Cummins noises
- Thread starter 76zimmer
- Start date
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
**** onan. Cummins is red.
Maybe JD green???
Yeah, I like the Reds!
Is there a durable Cummins red in a can, or do I need to get it mixed?
Seems the underside of all the covers is Cummins beige, and it got hosed w/ Black for Dodge?
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
Get a high solids engine enamel. In red. That'll do you.
Eastwood Ceramic engine paint is pretty tough. Brush it on or thin it and spray it. I brushed it on my current 355 and the 350 i used in my V8 S10. It has held up much better than any spray can engine paint.
best engine paint ever... Imron... it's what they run on marine Mann's...
agreed Paul, I was trying to NOT have to empty my stall in the shop I use for spraying...got a bunch of stuff over there right now, and am looking to take a lazy way out...I guess I should just buck up and do it tho, as I have some other paint projects coming this winter anyway.
I've been blasting all the tins and other items for the best prep, so "might as well" do a decent paint job on them as well.
I've been blasting all the tins and other items for the best prep, so "might as well" do a decent paint job on them as well.
eh, to be honest, I've seen plenty of rattlecan motor jobs hold up fine.. whatever works for you... vastly cheaper too... 
tis true, problem is finding a real good Cummins Red in a spray can...haven't found anything close to home here.
I do like the Moeller engine paint pretty well, it holds up pretty good for a can job.
I do like the Moeller engine paint pretty well, it holds up pretty good for a can job.
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
What ever it is. Make sure its high solids. They hold up.
right on Luke...by the way....the engine looks pretty nice inside around the cylinders...after taking out the oil cooler getting a peak inside the block looks pretty clean, no scale buildup or rust going on in there.
I'm still amazed how small all the exhaust ports/runners are as well as the turbo mounting, especially after doing a BBC for my last build.
I'm guessing the pressure from the turbo and the smaller runners/ports creates better airflow at the lower engine speeds a diesel runs at?
I'm still amazed how small all the exhaust ports/runners are as well as the turbo mounting, especially after doing a BBC for my last build.
I'm guessing the pressure from the turbo and the smaller runners/ports creates better airflow at the lower engine speeds a diesel runs at?
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
That's always good to see it clean inside.
The engine doesn't turn amazing RPM. So the turbo definitely creating an artificial atmosphere makes up for it.
Plus it's only 360ci. It's not really bigger than a small block.
The engine doesn't turn amazing RPM. So the turbo definitely creating an artificial atmosphere makes up for it.
Plus it's only 360ci. It's not really bigger than a small block.
It was a joke. I was making fun of that ugly green. Not as ugly as Detroit Green.
Martin
From Mudmonkey's comments in Kerts SERE build:
"Have you seen my engine accessory mounts I made for my swap? I used a Sanden compressor, the GM alternator, and added an idler pulley. The lower water neck is incorporated into the bracketry as well. Everything clears the frame, the compressor and entire AC system is designed for R134A, and a belt off a 94-02 dodge is used. I have the dxf's saved. I should see if I can find them. I'm sure Dave could utilize a set for his build too."
First a few questions: I believe there is some kinda voodoo going on with the Dodge alternator? Seems as there is some discussion here and there about the regulator?
Does running the GM alternator eliminate that potential issue? Does there need to be some alterations made electrically to run the GM alternator?
Also Mudmonkey...do you have the file avail for a template of your bracket plate?
"Have you seen my engine accessory mounts I made for my swap? I used a Sanden compressor, the GM alternator, and added an idler pulley. The lower water neck is incorporated into the bracketry as well. Everything clears the frame, the compressor and entire AC system is designed for R134A, and a belt off a 94-02 dodge is used. I have the dxf's saved. I should see if I can find them. I'm sure Dave could utilize a set for his build too."
First a few questions: I believe there is some kinda voodoo going on with the Dodge alternator? Seems as there is some discussion here and there about the regulator?
Does running the GM alternator eliminate that potential issue? Does there need to be some alterations made electrically to run the GM alternator?
Also Mudmonkey...do you have the file avail for a template of your bracket plate?
rompinstompinmudmonkey
1/2 ton status
The Dodge alternator is externally regulated. The GM alternator is internally regulated and only takes one wire to hook up. Using the GM alternator allowed me to use my existing wiring and keep things simple.
I know I have the dxf of the brackets saved somewhere. The computer that I had them on no longer exists. I'll have to dig a bit to find them
I know I have the dxf of the brackets saved somewhere. The computer that I had them on no longer exists. I'll have to dig a bit to find them
I used the stock Dodge alternator, a Dodge external voltage regulator and it works great. Cheap, easy, and the stock alternator makes plenty of amps (160?)
rompinstompinmudmonkey
1/2 ton status
Chris, did you notch the frame to clear your ac compressor?
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
The PCM in the 2nd genners controls the alternator. You can definately scroll it back to use an external voltage regulator. Or put the GM on it and do a one wire hookup. Up to you.
I used the GM alt in my '98 crewcab. And I'm useing the ford hi output 205amp in the swap in my superduty. Each one wire hookups.
I used the GM alt in my '98 crewcab. And I'm useing the ford hi output 205amp in the swap in my superduty. Each one wire hookups.
