No schematics on that one Dave, sorry
CK5
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76 CCDRW...Cummins noises
- Thread starter 76zimmer
- Start date
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
Don't need a schematic for that. Heavy gauge power goes to each of the studs on the left. Ground the stud on the right. There's dual coils in it. Common ground.
Run off a HD relay to command the battery power to the coils.
In the dodge chassis the relay control is commanded by a little timer control with a couple sensor inputs. All irrelevant. Run the control wire to a push button in the cab for manual grid heater. Hold for 8-10 seconds, start engine. Cycle couple times in winter.
Run off a HD relay to command the battery power to the coils.
In the dodge chassis the relay control is commanded by a little timer control with a couple sensor inputs. All irrelevant. Run the control wire to a push button in the cab for manual grid heater. Hold for 8-10 seconds, start engine. Cycle couple times in winter.
I think he needs to know how the order of insulation sleeves, washers, and bolts.
correct JD.... a bunch of little parts I put all in a cup, but didn't take a pic of them before dissassembly...which I have been good about doing otherwise. Its been 4 mos since I took them apart and the ole cranium ain't what it used to be!
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
Isolate the ones on the left. From the case. Make contact with the case on the single on the right. It stacks just like the stud on your starter. Just make sure the eyelet of the power cable only touches the stud and nut. NOT the case.
here is what I came up with...the little orange pieces are seals...one of those at each port where a stud goes through the casting to seal the stud/port against air infiltration.
On the power supply studs:
Top pic...There is an fiber isolator spacer on the power side studs next to the orange seal that isolates the stud from the hole in the manifold
On each end of the power studs are fiber washers that isolate the stud from from the hole on each side of the casting
On one of the grids there is a spacer on the stud to take up the difference in height of the lower mounted heater grid.
I know the power supplies come into the studs on the front of the manifold and nothing hooks to the studs on the rear of the manifold...those studs are not isolated from the manifold casting so I assume it is normal for this to be the ground of the circuit?
let me know if you see anything wrong with these pics....
On the power supply studs:
Top pic...There is an fiber isolator spacer on the power side studs next to the orange seal that isolates the stud from the hole in the manifold
On each end of the power studs are fiber washers that isolate the stud from from the hole on each side of the casting
On one of the grids there is a spacer on the stud to take up the difference in height of the lower mounted heater grid.
I know the power supplies come into the studs on the front of the manifold and nothing hooks to the studs on the rear of the manifold...those studs are not isolated from the manifold casting so I assume it is normal for this to be the ground of the circuit?
let me know if you see anything wrong with these pics....
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
That all looks reasonable to me. As long as both power side studs are isolated from the case you are good. The case is definately grounded to the engine. Of course make sure the block to chassis grounds are good and thick there should be no issues. With starter or grid heater.
You should rebuild the starter solenoid while its out too. The disk pits like crazy every time it breaks power.
You should rebuild the starter solenoid while its out too. The disk pits like crazy every time it breaks power.
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
Great, to keep that system working I need to keep the heater relay system intact then I assume?
Other things come to mind:
1) To get to a GM one wire alternator: I get it only needs one wire to feed the battery, and the Dodge alternator is regulated by the Powertrain computer, is there any repercussions of eliminating the Dodge alt and its wiring?
2) Should I (or can I) get rid of the fuel heater/prefilter/strainer/sensor assy?
3) I assume I should keep the engine speed sensor and throttle position sensor intact to run the 47RE?
4) Any opinions on this fuel solenoid saver.. http://www.genosgarage.com/FUEL-SOLENOID-SAVER-DIODE-94-98-12V/productinfo/LB-SS99/#.VVRyLpN3eSk
Other things come to mind:
1) To get to a GM one wire alternator: I get it only needs one wire to feed the battery, and the Dodge alternator is regulated by the Powertrain computer, is there any repercussions of eliminating the Dodge alt and its wiring?
2) Should I (or can I) get rid of the fuel heater/prefilter/strainer/sensor assy?
3) I assume I should keep the engine speed sensor and throttle position sensor intact to run the 47RE?
4) Any opinions on this fuel solenoid saver.. http://www.genosgarage.com/FUEL-SOLENOID-SAVER-DIODE-94-98-12V/productinfo/LB-SS99/#.VVRyLpN3eSk
additional items to date:
motor mounts exhaust parts...........$375
adjustable timing gear/GSK.............$385
gaskets/water pump/small parts.......$380
paint...........................................$85
total to date for conversion........-$3925
I kinda curious about this also. I've read one article where one person gutted his fuel heater. He basically kept the screen part of it. I think there is a spacer you can buy in place of fuel heater.
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
I removed the one off my last 12v. That fuel bowl always finds a way to suck air.
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
I didn't use a spacer at all. Removing the heater removed one entire oring to leak.
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
The point of removing it is to get rid of the extra leak points.
rompinstompinmudmonkey
1/2 ton status
There's a different threaded nipple to get to delete the heater. Mine leaked so I deleted it. I drive in sub zero temps with no issues, just treat the fuel and / or run #1 when it gets below 20 degrees.
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
I live and drive in the asshole of Alberta for 25 years now. Believe me I know sub -40 winter. The fuel heater is bull****. The fact that we flip to #1 diesel every winter is far greater benefit than that fuel heater.
The diode. Ya sure. For 25 bucks throw it in if you want. But in my experience when starter solenoid sticks it sticks in the off position. So the truck won't crank. In fact my starter just did it tonight and hour ago. I went into the store and come out ten minutes later. Clunck clunck. No crank. I keep a hockey stick in the back of my truck to smack it with. Ya a few solid reefs on it. It fired right up.
The diode. Ya sure. For 25 bucks throw it in if you want. But in my experience when starter solenoid sticks it sticks in the off position. So the truck won't crank. In fact my starter just did it tonight and hour ago. I went into the store and come out ten minutes later. Clunck clunck. No crank. I keep a hockey stick in the back of my truck to smack it with. Ya a few solid reefs on it. It fired right up.
