CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
This is the oil pump just FYI

View attachment 170016

Makes sense now Luke, I still have the front cover off so I'll look at it just to be more familiar with it....

So I'm putting the "paper" gaskets in place for the head/intake....do you use a sealer on them, or just dry gasket to head/intake


th


Looks great Dave:waytogo:

thanks Greg, feels good to make a little progress on it.
 
I use Anerobic on one side of the gasket. Generally you want to stick it to the side of the piece that you're removing not the piece that's staying for ease of cleanup if it gets damaged.
 
Bloody brilliant work as usual Dave. You can come work on my pile of crap anytime! :waytogo:
 
I use Anerobic on one side of the gasket. Generally you want to stick it to the side of the piece that you're removing not the piece that's staying for ease of cleanup if it gets damaged.

great tip thanks Luke.

Is looking good Dave. I think you should move your time table up a year though.

no way I can do it this year Keith....I was supposed to make it last year, but plans fell through and we had to recalculate things....life happens whether your ready or not!

Bloody brilliant work as usual Dave. You can come work on my pile of crap anytime! :waytogo:

thanks Rene' One day I WILL make it back to Edmonton!

I cant wait to see the engine all assembled again!
 
now here's a fun way to spend an evening...scrubbing bolts of diesel oil, wire wheel, cleaned in mineral spirits, then douched in alcohol, then primer, then painted....now how do you keep from chipping away the paint when tightening them???

FullSizeRender(2).jpg
 
You bring your dually. I'll bring my dually and we'll compare notes. Both trucks that didn't have a cummins when born!

that sounds like a great idea Luke, it could happen!
 
Plastic sandwich bag over the bolt head does a decent job but extreme care is needed regardless.
 
That sounds good Glenn, mostly its the 20lb ft + torquing I'm concerned about chipping the paint off. I guess I don't need to get to anal about it though.

A few more questions: (I'm getting this info from the Cummins B series service manual)

1)The intake bolts had a sealant on them, the Cummins book says part # 3375066 thread sealant...I assume this is equivalent to a high pressure sealant i.e Loctite brand?

2) The rear main seal procedure says to install the seal housing using the alignment tool, and then the seal pilot, then the seal, taping evenly to seat the seal onto the crankshaft....my question is, is there sealant needed in the housing around the seal, and is this the best proven method for seal installation (keep in mind I'm still used to SBC and BBC engines not these Cummins engines)

3) the tappet cover has a silicone gasket, is sealant needed on the block surface of this gasket as well? I've heard of leaks even after a new gasket is installed.
 
now here's a fun way to spend an evening...scrubbing bolts of diesel oil, wire wheel, cleaned in mineral spirits, then douched in alcohol, then primer, then painted....now how do you keep from chipping away the paint when tightening them???


You keep them from chipping by touching up after.:thumb:
 
Right Kert.....is that why yours looked "rebuild fresh" still?
 
Right Kert.....is that why yours looked "rebuild fresh" still?

Nah, I went with the industrial paint job approach. Put it all together and shoot the whole damn thing, bolt heads and all.
 
I did that for the long block as well! these tedious little parts are time consuming!
 
That sounds good Glenn, mostly its the 20lb ft + torquing I'm concerned about chipping the paint off. I guess I don't need to get to anal about it though.

A few more questions: (I'm getting this info from the Cummins B series service manual)

1)The intake bolts had a sealant on them, the Cummins book says part # 3375066 thread sealant...I assume this is equivalent to a high pressure sealant i.e Loctite brand?

2) The rear main seal procedure says to install the seal housing using the alignment tool, and then the seal pilot, then the seal, taping evenly to seat the seal onto the crankshaft....my question is, is there sealant needed in the housing around the seal, and is this the best proven method for seal installation (keep in mind I'm still used to SBC and BBC engines not these Cummins engines)

3) the tappet cover has a silicone gasket, is sealant needed on the block surface of this gasket as well? I've heard of leaks even after a new gasket is installed.


1- it's like pipe dope. PST.

2- no sealant needed on the edge of the seal.

3- don't use anything on the valve covet gaskets. Not all valve cover gaskets are created equal.
 
76 CrewCab Dually, Cummins parts painted

Marine gasket Cummins PN#3930906 and O-ring PN#3910824.

Or the Felpro ones from NAPA are ok too.

Just snug the bolts. 18ftlbs. They're shoulder bolts. Don't break them.
 
Marine gasket Cummins PN#3930906 and O-ring PN#3910824.

Or the Felpro ones from NAPA are ok too.

Just snug the bolts. 18ftlbs. They're shoulder bolts. Don't break them.

Dam, I meant this cover Luke....pushrod cover, does it need any help? I have the blue Felpro silicone gasket for it:

Cummins side view.jpg
 
Oh ya ya. You're right. I read it and visualized valve covers.

Still the same though. Clean dry and even torque. The silicone gaskets will do as good as any. A touch of blue locktite wouldn't hurt your feelings on the mount bolts either. Those engines vibrate party hard. Almost everything on them should have blue before torque.
 
OK, I got some blue on hand I'll use on all the fasteners!
Thanks brother!
 
Top Bottom