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76 CCDRW...Cummins noises

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Thanks David.....
I'm going to try the few tricks in the brakeline thread on some coils (eventually) but if needed I'll prob spring for the tool as well.
Right now still trying to get the engine buttoned up to start it again!
 
Why not just use shorter pieces with unions?

I hate working on vehicles that don't have a union in the rear brake lines.

Martin
 
why would I want unions? Not like I plan on taking them apart for cleaning or anything, just one more potential leak eliminated.
 
I've never had to repair a leaky union. If you don't want it, you don't want it. I get that. Just seems like an unnecessary hassle, to make things that you will never see, harder to work on in the future.

Martin
 
82355 said:
I've never had to repair a leaky union. If you don't want it, you don't want it. I get that. Just seems like an unnecessary hassle, to make things that you will never see, harder to work on in the future.

Martin
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I didn't have real good luck with a few unions on the Maiden, using stainless line and a cheaper flaring tool, made it a headache until I went with tinned tube.
I think with my handy dandy flare tool, I can repair in line if I need to.
 
I see.

I also never flare my own lines. I just use pre made lines in whatever length is close enough to what I need.

Martin
 
Flaring stainless sucks. The next vehicle I do brake lines on will definitely be the tinned copper. It's just so much easier to work with and still will never corrode.
 
probably will be my choice as well....having made the decision to have salt free tow vehicle should insure they will last longer than me!
 
I'll have to remember that!
I think my problems ran into the flare wasn't exactly square in the holder when it made the inversion (double flare) and I think the stainless is harder and doesn't compress with the nut like the copper/tinned lines do.
 
I went AN so I don't have to deal with the double Inv flares.. I can never get them right.
 
blazinzuk said:
Are you sure they were singles

Single flares leak and won't hold as much pressure
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4


Insert pipe, flare it out. My family's set (growing up) didn't have the black attachments for folding the flare back over. So we used what we had. Have worked on many cars over the years, and I can't remember a flare joint ever leaking, though the flaring surface had to be judged correctly for the fitting to fit correctly. :dunno:

If others have seen mixed luck with that method, I will probably head out and buy a proper flaring set next time I need it. Dad's set is 400 miles away now anyways. :haha:
 
Ive used the same ones. Not saying they cant work, just more likely to fail.

Unfortunately, a "proper" tool costs hundreds of dollars.
 
Deuling said:
Ive used the same ones. Not saying they cant work, just more likely to fail.

Unfortunately, a "proper" tool costs hundreds of dollars.
Click to expand...

Well, even that set would be an upgrade from what I've been using. But it's hard to justify a couple hundred dollars for a flaring tool when I can't recall any friends or family members running into a failed joint using the basic single-flaring set.

I've even seen compression couplings used for brake line fixes. :eek1: That scares me a bit for safety-of-life issues. :doah:

What "proper" tool do you guys use? I'll probably be in the market for some sort of flaring set before much longer, it's hard to borrow Dad's set now. :wink1:
 
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