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76 CCDRW...Cummins noises

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campfire said:
Well, even that set would be an upgrade from what I've been using. But it's hard to justify a couple hundred dollars for a flaring tool when I can't recall any friends or family members running into a failed joint using the basic single-flaring set.

I've even seen compression couplings used for brake line fixes. :eek1: That scares me a bit for safety-of-life issues. :doah:

What "proper" tool do you guys use? I'll probably be in the market for some sort of flaring set before much longer, it's hard to borrow Dad's set now. :wink1:
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Seems to boil down to the eastwood setup that dave bought, or the Mastercool.

I prefer the mastercool as the eastwood looks like it needs to be bench mounted, and I tend to do a lot of flares in position on the vehicle.
 
Deuling said:
Seems to boil down to the eastwood setup that dave bought, or the Mastercool.

I prefer the mastercool as the eastwood looks like it needs to be bench mounted, and I tend to do a lot of flares in position on the vehicle.
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Both look nice and versatile.

I'm probably stuck with the el-cheapo version for the foreseeable future. But I may upgrade to double flaring if there's a noticeable difference. :dunno:
 
Eastwood has a really good price on the one I mentioned earlier. It's so easy to use and makes a perfect double flare.
Single flares don't have the extra thickness of metal at the flare to give a desirable seat in the tubing
The tubing gets stretched and compressed so double invented flares give better seats and higher pressure capability.
The simple version of a double flaring tool pictured above will work well with tinned lines but maybe not so well with stainless
Having a squarely cut and deburred end on the tube is important for proper seating too.
 
82355 said:
So none of you guys just use standard parts store brake lines that are already flared???

Martin
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I used them on my car once, but they are never the correct length so you end up cutting and flaring one end. I figured those would nickle and dime me to death on the truck so I bought 25' rolls.
 
skunked said:
I used them on my car once, but they are never the correct length so you end up cutting and flaring one end. I figured those would nickle and dime me to death on the truck so I bought 25' rolls.
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I dislike the ready made ones--cheap thin tubing,only galvanized or silver painted,they rot away and pop in 2-3 years tops around here..also they are never a "good fit"--you either end up making a loop to use up extra length,or have to cut & reflare them as stated above..the tubing likes to split when flared too...also kinks instead of bending easily...
I only use those in a bind or if I do not plan on keeping the vehicle for long--but 9 times out of ten I keep them till they get scrapped,and wish I had used the better quality brake tubing..
 
I have used them plenty but it always seems like a compromise to use them
Sure they'll work but as mentioned, too long/short so you have to make a loop or other "adjustment" to get them to replace a bad line.
And for the price of a couple of them you could reline the whole truck with a 25' roll and a handful of flare nuts.
 
82355 said:
So none of you guys just use standard parts store brake lines that are already flared???

Martin
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As mentioned above, I'll start with one of those and then cut/reflare it to fit. If I need to do multiple lines I'll buy a long piece and couplings to match. I'm also not against leaving a loop in it if the length is close and I'm only making one line.
 
82355 said:
So none of you guys just use standard parts store brake lines that are already flared???

Martin
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Used too. Never the right length. If I'm working on something specific where I can predetermine lengths I try as much as possible to use already flared lines. Like installing a line lock.

For the most part when I do brake work it's new line cut to length and flare.

@campfire while none of your family may have not had issues with a single flare it simply is wrong. It is much more susceptible to cracking.

I know a couple guys who single flare everything. I have heard them whine how crappy brakes are on a couple cars they have had. Didn't realize it till I was following one of em and saw something dripping. Closer investigation revealed it was one of his single flare brake lines.

So please double flare your brake lines.
 
blazinzuk said:
@campfire while none of your family may have not had issues with a single flare it simply is wrong. It is much more susceptible to cracking.

I know a couple guys who single flare everything. I have heard them whine how crappy brakes are on a couple cars they have had. Didn't realize it till I was following one of em and saw something dripping. Closer investigation revealed it was one of his single flare brake lines.

So please double flare your brake lines.
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sreidmx said:
No...
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sreidmx said:
You double flare that crap..
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Alrightalrightalrightalrightalrightalrightalrightalrightalrightalright. Sigh. :rolleyes:

I will add a double flaring tool to the toolbox.
 
Also, thanks for the education. I learn a lot around here, and I'm sure I have plenty more to learn in the future. And I will definitely think of this thread if any of the previous fittings develop a leak or a crack at some point in the future.
 
I've used a single flaring tool for years to make brake lines,and had no issues,but that doesn't mean its the right thing to do..

--I feel safer with new,single flared tubing,than old rotted lines,or ones with brass compression unions on them (which I have found on more than one vehicle after the line finally failed,installed years previous by former owners :eek: )...

I finally broke down and got a used double flare tool kit with the "buttons"--I still have some trouble getting the tubing to double flare right sometimes--more so on the cheap "hard" ready made lines--the rolls of green coated stuff and the copper/nickel tubing is much easier to make good flares on..
 
image.jpeg image.jpeg So I got the drivers side pretty well dressed now
Next up is stripping the old paint off all the fuel lines.
Deleted the fuel heater and its wiring as well.
 
Fuel heater is kind of pointless from what I've read. The filter is after the heater, so it takes a while for "warm" fuel to reach the injection pump.
Plus the fuel heater is problematic with air leaks.
 
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JDNobodi said:
Fuel heater is kind of pointless from what I've read. The filter is after the heater, so it takes a while for "warm" fuel to reach the injection pump.
Plus it's problematic with air leaks.
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I thought the point of the fuel heater was to keep the filter from gelling up with cold fuel. On the 84+ GM diesel rigs they built their fuel heater directly into the filter housing.
 
campfire said:
I thought the point of the fuel heater was to keep the filter from gelling up with cold fuel. On the 84+ GM diesel rigs they built their fuel heater directly into the filter housing.
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There's also some statement in the manual that the heater allows for using summer-blend fuel in winter temperatures. If you're using winter-blend diesel it's not a requirement (and the 1982-1983 trucks don't have a heater at all).

I'd assume the Dodge trucks are somewhat similar (but that's just an assumption).
 
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