toner91
Registered Member
That's a pretty good idea. I like the sound of it. Can't wait to see it when it's done.
CK5
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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!
- Thread starter 76zimmer
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- 14bff bearing desintigrated 454 cookies custom diy4x aluminum fuel tank diy4x flatback dif covers diy4x frame boxing kit diy4x wraptor/truss ez-efi fords suck hemi orange and school bus yellow index l&l headers long/dana coolers making me her bitch. more tranny problems one tons phoenix trans convertor th400 full manual
jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
This way when the truck starts to rust nobody will even know!!!! Sneaky Sneaky Sir 
Not rusty enough!so what gives, no body likes my rust colored paint????
JK should look cool man, kinda rat roddy neat.
Maybe try a little brown paint with it.
baby sh*t brown... 
3 stage......
3 stage......
Thats the sh#t!
toner91
Registered Member
speedfreekk
1/2 ton status
may just be me, but looks like chevy orange. How you doin on the blazer, you going to be able to leave some marks on that cement soon.
may just be me, but looks like chevy orange. How you doin on the blazer, you going to be able to leave some marks on that cement soon.
Jesse and Dave left enough of those already
was thinking about that too, in some of the areas that would have high exposure to the elements as the tops of panels, but I like the orange yellow colors pretty well. I haven't tried a test panel for the red oxide base yet, so some testing will need to be done.Not rusty enough!
JK should look cool man, kinda rat roddy neat.
Maybe try a little brown paint with it.
baby sh*t brown...
good humor Paul!
may just be me, but looks like chevy orange. How you doin on the blazer, you going to be able to leave some marks on that cement soon.
Jesse and Dave left enough of those already
Not soon enough on the blackmarks....reminds me, still need to make driveshafts too
Looks good, Dave.
Did you end up cutting into the floor some (Tubbing), to make some more room?
Did you end up cutting into the floor some (Tubbing), to make some more room?
I think it will look great once you get it finished and painted, nice work.
Looks good, Dave.
Did you end up cutting into the floor some (Tubbing), to make some more room?
I did, I widened the opening up about 1.5"
here is the before...you can see the original rusty opening width....notice the rise in the floor pan, in relation to what it is now.
A rear view:
after widening, notice the rise in the floorpan:
A view from the front seats:
looks good enough for what it has to do
you guys are too kind....its a hackjob, my sheetmetal fabbing skills are suck...got no tools for bending big stuff.
Looks real good dave. Just wait to you see my sheet metal work this weekend. Anyways i'm not sure if anyone pointed it out. But if you switch to a smaller wire diameter it will help with the thin sheet metal.
Actually the wire isn't a big deal Jess, hitting a bunch of tacks together to nail it down, but just bending 14ga. with a 2x4 and a hammer kinda sucks.
I mean, I have an idea of what I want it to turn out like, but the execution is going all to hell....what a noob.
I mean, I have an idea of what I want it to turn out like, but the execution is going all to hell....what a noob.
your kingdom for a pan brake.. I'd sell underprivileged children for one...
keep at it Dave, little seam sealer and it'll look better than factory....
keep at it Dave, little seam sealer and it'll look better than factory....
I definitely got that in mind Paul, blast the seam welds, and coat em with sealer, then prime and paint. Might have to use some sort of filler between the tub and fender in a few spots though, any ideas for up to 1/4" gap?
I think I might already look into replacing the rear quarters, and floor....the quarters are full of bondo, and have some pretty weak metal in areas, and they are patched on, instead of replacing the whole panel, the rear area below the tailights are swiss cheese. Not going to spend much time on em.
The floor is good except around where the tubs were bolted on, and the rear floor support @ the tailgate area.
you'd be surprised at what can be filled with seam sealer.. 1/4 is not much.. you also use tape as a backing on the underside to control seep thru if it needs it.... then when thoroughly dry, pull tape, and put a bead on that side... black electrical has worked well for me in the past doing this..
or if it doesn't seep thru, just put a bead, then when dry, put a bead on the other side..
or if it doesn't seep thru, just put a bead, then when dry, put a bead on the other side..
