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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!

jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
Overview Gallery Discussion
my assessment would be based on the overall floor/cab condition and long term intentions...

is it worth throwing a whole floor at?

keep in mind, that the corrogated floor adds structure, so you need to up the custom frame work structure if your going flat sheet... at some point I'll be adding a couple more angle irons to mine to stiffen it up a bit..

it all kinda lays out nice using the "straights" of the wells, etc to base the design off of tho.. how that would all lay out with a raised floor section for a tank, can't say...
 
Is your cage just mounted to floor or does it sandwich through and tie into frame?
I think Scouts mount their tank to the bottom on the body, maybe look into their setup.
 
MNorby said:
Is your cage just mounted to floor or does it sandwich through and tie into frame?
I think Scouts mount their tank to the bottom on the body, maybe look into their setup.
Click to expand...

It's sandwiched and mounted to frame
 
ryoken said:
my assessment would be based on the overall floor/cab condition and long term intentions...

is it worth throwing a whole floor at?
Click to expand...

I tend to think this too Dave, I have seen what the rest of the truck looks like, after you spend all that time putting a new floor in are you gonna keep going and so the both sides of the truck?

Cutting the floor like Kert said reeks of snowball to me.

If raising the floor do it as simply as possible with as little work as possible
 
I really appreciate the thoughts guys. Many minds make great decisions.

My intentions for the truck are to wheel it....try not to hurt it or myself with my limited wheeling experience, and I want it to be safe for anyone in it. It has hacked on quarters, and some floor patches in the front.
It is rusty especially compared to western bodies, but not as bad, compared to most midwest/northeastern bodies that have seen year after year of salt exposure. It is no cherry by any means, but its still a safe truck, especially with the cage and body tied together.
The floor is intact throughout the whole bed, although it does have a few minor perforations from trapped moisture areas like the rear of the floor pan @ the tailgate. It is solid from the wheelwells forward since I redid the wheelwells for the bigger tires and rear axle being moved back 4", the stock rusty wheelwell seams have been cut out to solid floor, and rebuilt with the new wheelwells, My intention is to raise the floor from the rear seats to the back of the floorpan @ the tailgate, 2" and to strengthen the body mounts just in front of the axle, and reinforce the floor and have an opening just big enough to pull the tank out from the top if necessary. So a 2'x2' opening between the framerails would be framed out with the angle iron and it would support the tank from there. I have looked at Pauls rebuild of his floor, and would consider the same type of replacement, and have seeked his opinion on this as well, I do need some help here, as I've never tackled a floor replacement before, but feel I can do the job with some direction.
I'm not sure what to do about the rollcage down tubes at the tailgate as they do sandwich the body in the cage construction.
So picture if you can the floor raised 2" from the rear seats to the tailgate, from one wheelwell to the other, then make an opening in between the framerails big enough to support the tank and to get the tank out of from the top....

Ironmaiden398.jpg





The two shiny bolt heads in between the fenderwells are where the bodymounts are starting to push up the floor pan, so from in front of those ~6-8" to the rear tailpan is the area of concern for now.
 
Here is a better pic of some of the floor situation.

the yellow outline is where the fuel tank will go, and it will be level with the floor as it is right now.

the plan is to reinforce the area of the body mounts, then make a frame work for the tank to be secured to, then build a floor 2" above that from the seats to the rear tailpan.

HPIM4331 (800x600).jpg

HPIM4332 (800x600).jpg

HPIM4333 (800x600).jpg
 
Yeah, I have some of those. It would still make more sense to me to have a smaller tank and a flat floor pan.

Martin
 
82355 said:
Yeah, I have some of those. It would still make more sense to me to have a smaller tank and a flat floor pan.

Martin
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While I agree that a smaller tank would be the easy way out, Zim is looking for around 30 gallon fuel capacity without having a tank that hangs low, like my 1st gen with 34ish. Hits everything.

Besides who takes the easy way out :dunno:

image.jpg
 
82355 said:
Why not just make the tank smaller?

Martin
Click to expand...

because I have already seen the need to have 30 gal of fuel, when we were out for a day, I used 25 gal. and had the 31 gal tank at that time. I carried an extra 5 gal can with me, but used that in Erics rig. If we were to be out much longer (like on the Tri'fecta) I could see using 30 gal up, I'd rather not have to carry an extra can of fuel on board.

blazinzuk said:
fofiftyfo
Click to expand...
NAILED IT

woodchk502 said:
Zim,
Thanks for letting me interrupt your garage time. I will definitely keep in touch. I will do my best to make it to Adams get together in July. :waytogo:

Btw the Maiden looks great!
Click to expand...
anytime Jim, its always been a pleasure to meet up with CK5'ers...so lets do it again!

woodchk502 said:
While I agree that a smaller tank would be the easy way out, Zim is looking for around 30 gallon fuel capacity without having a tank that hangs low, like my 1st gen with 34ish. Hits everything.

Besides who takes the easy way out :dunno:
Click to expand...

Right Jim, I had already moved the tank up 2" and forward 2" to alleviate some of the low hanging tank syndrome, I really like the skid Kert made, and will still use that, but to get the capacity I want and the simplicity of tank build the floor will be raised to accomodate it.
I won't be loosing any floor space, and as mentioned, I have some body mount issues that should be addressed as well.
 
You're going EFI, right? I imagine you'll use less fuel. I don't use that much fuel while off road, it's the drive to and from that eat up my fuel.

Martin
 
correct Martin, and I hope too it will help with fuel consumption!
 
76zimmer said:
correct Martin, and I hope too it will help with fuel consumption!
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I think the fuel injection will help with fuel consumption but I believe the faster throttle response and overall pep of a motor that is injected adds weight to the right foot so the gains are nill
 
blazinzuk said:
I think the fuel injection will help with fuel consumption but I believe the faster throttle response and overall pep of a motor that is injected adds weight to the right foot so the gains are nill
Click to expand...

Is that a shot at me, or just a general observation Eric:haha:

cuz you know I love the go fast pedal!
 
Thats true Eric, I've found that with the EFI on my big block I get the same or slightly better mileage than when I had my carbed small block. However, fuel useage offroad I think may have went up slightly because I tend to race a lot more now. The important part is I think my smiles/gallon are at an all time high.
 
76zimmer said:
Is that a shot at me, or just a general observation Eric:haha:

cuz you know I love the go fast pedal!
Click to expand...

Both :D

folkenheath said:
Thats true Eric, I've found that with the EFI on my big block I get the same or slightly better mileage than when I had my carbed small block. However, fuel useage offroad I think may have went up slightly because I tend to race a lot more now. The important part is I think my smiles/gallon are at an all time high.
Click to expand...

Heath says it best, smiles per gallon go way up.
 
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