CK5
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Good luck with that fuel line. When I was looking for some everyone in the parts stores looked at me like I was stupid and said it didn't exist lol

gotta be some out there somewhere?

It definitely exists, in tank pumps generally connect to the pickup tube with a short section of rubber line that is generally submerged........ not sure if anyone would sell it for that application :dunno:
 
I've found some 5/16 and 3/8 locally, but no 1/2", may have to go marine?
 
You can't use hardline with fittings??

I'm not quite sure what your hooking up, didn't read what the specific need for the rubber is.
 
I'm looking for some 1/2 i.d. fuel line...needs to be submersible rated, only need 2-3 inches. It will be used between the pickup puck and the barbed outlet of the tank.
Where to find it????
None of the local stores have that in stock.
'
Answer!

You can't use hardline with fittings??

I'm not quite sure what your hooking up, didn't read what the specific need for the rubber is.

Question!

He probably could IF he had a 37* flairing tool. I think it's for the pickup pucks in the tank.

Comment!

If I had a 37* flaring tool, I could make my old stainless fuel line work for the new line..its attached inside the boxed frame rail, runs up to the front of the frame rail, and is .437id.
Right now it has compression fitting on it..

tank%201st%20design.jpg
 
the hard stainless would be on the output of the pump, so high pressure.
The tank outlet will be at the bottom next to the pump.



I haven't found a fitting that connects the AN fitting to the compression fitting???
 
It is a swagelok, I'll check out their stuff, thanks!
 
spent more than a couple hours just getting the body mount crossmember right...3x3x.120 crossmember, used a hole saw to make holes for a 1.5" DOM sleeve for the body bolt to go through. Used triple washer thickness for the bolt head seat on the bottom of the crossmember, then cut down the body lift spacer blocks to achieve the right finished floor height (2" raised from factory).
It's not that easy for me to climb in and out of the back of the Maiden anymore, I'll be glad when this piece is "nailed in".:whistle:

HPIM4363 (800x600).jpg

HPIM4364 (800x600).jpg

HPIM4365 (800x600).jpg

HPIM4366 (800x600).jpg
 
Well just an FYI, Craig bought a $400 hydraulic flare tool and I'm pretty sure it does damn near any flare you can think of :whistle:
 
Well just an FYI, Craig bought a $400 hydraulic flare tool and I'm pretty sure it does damn near any flare you can think of :whistle:

Does it do 37* AN flares, and how big, will it fit on that elbow I have sticking out of the frame?
 
it's the Mastercool one.. it can be had for under $300 these days.. I own one, and yes, iirc it does 37's.. which are JIC, not AN btw...
 
Isn't it already a 37* on the elbow? Or is it an O ring face seal.

It is a Swagelok compression fitting, it was in use for a mechanical pump on the engine, no pump pressure, pump vaccum would be all.

I beleive it is one exaxtly like this

http://www.eastwood.com/universal-h...=40408679847&gclid=CIq4kYfR5LUCFVGf4AodYjEArA

idk if that will work or not. :dunno:

All ive done is brake lines. But it will do gm fuel flares and other goofy flares

guess not, it says its not for stainless and this line is .035 wall stainless.

it's the Mastercool one.. it can be had for under $300 these days.. I own one, and yes, iirc it does 37's.. which are JIC, not AN btw...

Was reading that JIC 37* is a less exacting tolerance than the typical AN37*...never knew the JIC existed...:dunno:

I still need to call a Swagelok dealer (grand rapids), they have a -8AN to 1/2 od stainless connector that should work.
 
guess not, it says its not for stainless and this line is .035 wall stainless.


All my fuel line is 3/8" stainless :whistle:

So it does work lol.

Idk if its supposed to but just sayin, and thats not the "exact" kit he bought. It just looks the same.

If you found something that will work, than thats cool. I was just throwin it out, cuz I know craig would let you borrow it if ya needed it.
 
OK Adam, lets not rule it out, I have a Swagelok rep working on a -6an fitting...right now I can get this with a -8an fitting.

swagelok.jpg
 
going to have Kert make a battery tray for the D31A optima... been throwing around a few ideas, and found some that I like, got any other ideas for this odd shaped battery. I think I would like to have a "locator" plate in the bottom to keep it from shifting within the tray.

D31A.jpg

D31A tray.jpg

batt tray.jpg

batt tray2.jpg

batt tray1.jpg
 
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