Huh...I'd measure mine for you if I had the thing near me but you're closer to it than I am.
Mine is OEM 1984 GM and it fits them fine...?
Mine is OEM 1984 GM and it fits them fine...?
CK5
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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!
- Thread starter 76zimmer
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- 14bff bearing desintigrated 454 cookies custom diy4x aluminum fuel tank diy4x flatback dif covers diy4x frame boxing kit diy4x wraptor/truss ez-efi fords suck hemi orange and school bus yellow index l&l headers long/dana coolers making me her bitch. more tranny problems one tons phoenix trans convertor th400 full manual
jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
They should be. 4.5-5" or so worth of backspacing was standard including today.
caviness
Registered Member
kool thread nice build.
Thanks for the vote of approval. Hopefully it'll turn out the way I'm hoping for, and not go broke doing it....
You working on a project or getting ideas for your rig?
I'll check this out tomorrow AJ. Thanks.
You working on a project or getting ideas for your rig?I'll check this out tomorrow AJ. Thanks.
My 15x10 ~4" BS wheels fit (with a lot of 
).
I measured today, the bs is 4" on those wheels in the pic. Must be the contour of them is different, but I'm pretty sure those were the stock steel wheels off my 85 3/4t. Not sure what gives, I didn't get to swap around wheels today, worked on the trans instead...
I got the wheel thing figured out. The wheel I had tried to put on the front had some ice inside the rim from sitting outside, and it wouldn't go on all the way. Today I put the rims from the back on the front, and they fit, although not much clearance by the caliper, but enough. I put the previously tried wheel on the back and found the ice inside the rim once I brought the wheel in from outside to melt the ice off.
Anyhow, back to the T400 rebuild.
I got my parts all in now, so back to it.
The replacement aluminum pistons compared to the stamped steel ones:
This is the way I compress the piston springs... 2 clamps on each side of the retainer:
I replaced all 3 pistons with these aluminum units. They have a much stouter way of locating the piston springs in the pockets.
This is the torrington bearing (in front) to replace the rear output thrust washer setup that is stock. This bearing is from a T350, and needs the shim with it to maintain the rear output endplay.
Thanks to folkenheath for the upgrade ideas!
The clutch packs have 5 discs in each, and a clearance of about .050-.055 in each of the direct, and forward clutch packs. Right where the guys at Coan transmissions recommends they be with a manual valve body.
Should be able to finish this up tomorrow, if I don't have any more sticks in the spokes.
Anyhow, back to the T400 rebuild.
I got my parts all in now, so back to it.
The replacement aluminum pistons compared to the stamped steel ones:
This is the way I compress the piston springs... 2 clamps on each side of the retainer:
I replaced all 3 pistons with these aluminum units. They have a much stouter way of locating the piston springs in the pockets.
This is the torrington bearing (in front) to replace the rear output thrust washer setup that is stock. This bearing is from a T350, and needs the shim with it to maintain the rear output endplay.
Thanks to folkenheath for the upgrade ideas!
The clutch packs have 5 discs in each, and a clearance of about .050-.055 in each of the direct, and forward clutch packs. Right where the guys at Coan transmissions recommends they be with a manual valve body.
Should be able to finish this up tomorrow, if I don't have any more sticks in the spokes.
The TROOPER! I love that song.
The Trooper is probably my favorite Iron Maiden song.
Martin
Martin
Jet stage 3 carb
I talked with Jet about a custom carb today for my application.
I tried SMI, but didn't get any response from them.
Jet suggested a quadrajet 36003...stage 3/ 800 cfm:
JET Performance now offers a Quadrajet carburetor tuned for Chevy & GMC cars and trucks with 396 ci and larger modified big block engines. The carburetor is extensively reworked by increasing main well size and is balanced to assure top end high RPM fuel flow. Several circuit modifications are made to keep the fuel curve correct throughout the entire RPM range and to keep consistent idle quality. Includes a .149 needle and seat to ensure adequate fuel flow. The carburetor is designed for modified big block motors with a dual plane intake manifold, headers, 8.5-9.5:1 compression ratio and mild ported or aftermarket heads. Recommended cam specs: Duration @ .050 min 210 degrees, max 240 degrees and a lobe separation angle of 110-114 degrees.
Available as a complete unit or JET can rebuild your existing core.
800 CFM Quadrajet custom built for big block engines 396 ci and up.
They also agreed to take 2 old cores I have in trade and give me $45 for them. Cool, just 350 carbs, and not in run-able condition either.
So I'm sending the truck avenger 770 back. Price will be about the same for this JET carb.
I talked with Jet about a custom carb today for my application.
I tried SMI, but didn't get any response from them.
Jet suggested a quadrajet 36003...stage 3/ 800 cfm:
JET Performance now offers a Quadrajet carburetor tuned for Chevy & GMC cars and trucks with 396 ci and larger modified big block engines. The carburetor is extensively reworked by increasing main well size and is balanced to assure top end high RPM fuel flow. Several circuit modifications are made to keep the fuel curve correct throughout the entire RPM range and to keep consistent idle quality. Includes a .149 needle and seat to ensure adequate fuel flow. The carburetor is designed for modified big block motors with a dual plane intake manifold, headers, 8.5-9.5:1 compression ratio and mild ported or aftermarket heads. Recommended cam specs: Duration @ .050 min 210 degrees, max 240 degrees and a lobe separation angle of 110-114 degrees.
Available as a complete unit or JET can rebuild your existing core.
800 CFM Quadrajet custom built for big block engines 396 ci and up.
They also agreed to take 2 old cores I have in trade and give me $45 for them. Cool, just 350 carbs, and not in run-able condition either.
So I'm sending the truck avenger 770 back. Price will be about the same for this JET carb.
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
good deal on the carb.so it should run like a top ince they are building it for your specific engine and installed components.awesome.
Its more of a stock Item for them I think. I discussed my vehicle combo, and he said this would work nicely.
I worked on the trans today, and got it pretty much done, then while putting the manual valve body in, the instructions say to remove the middle piston seal from the direct clutch....awe damn...Now I have to pull half the guts out of it again, and remove a friggin' seal. So 2 steps forward, and 1 back.....nice. Maybe I'll finish it tomorrow.
I worked on the trans today, and got it pretty much done, then while putting the manual valve body in, the instructions say to remove the middle piston seal from the direct clutch....awe damn...Now I have to pull half the guts out of it again, and remove a friggin' seal. So 2 steps forward, and 1 back.....nice. Maybe I'll finish it tomorrow.
1) Dual feeding the direct clutches involves leaving off a seal ring on the center support and/or not installing the center pistion seal in the direct clutch pack. (both have the same effect, I remove both) Then you have to plug a hole in the case next to the center support bolt hole with a 3/8" freeze plug before you install the valve body. I'll get a picture of this at home. You can also plug the center support or the plate, coan might of done that step for you so you should double check. I'll find the pictures tonight and send them to you of what hole to plug and what seal to leave out. It's basically free and greatly increases your high gear torque capacity, which is good for us 4x4s too since we are at WOT in high gear low range in the sand/snow/mud sometimes. The reason is because the factory uses double the area in reverse since it's a lower gear and therefor has higher torque value, and only uses half the area in high gear for a more "comfortable" shift.
2) The torrington bearing and race replaces the two thrust washers for less friction, heat and wear. You use a TH350 front pump shim to shim it. I don't remember the exact source for the torrington bearing but any major trans house will know about it. It should be about $20. Get a .010", .015", and .020" shim, one of them will be perfect for the endplay setting. It eliminates the last major longitudinal loading place that still has a bushing in it (the other 3 places already have bearings as you know).
3) The HD snap ring is thicker to spread the load on the lugs in the case, which is the only real weakpoint of the TH400 case itself. I thought the thick one was .106" or something thick. It holds all the pressure of the intermediate piston when applied. The other two clutch packs are in the steel drums. This one is in the aluminum case. The trans shop should be aware of that too. It also comes in the intermediate power pack from alto.
On a different note, about your front t-case outplut flange. HAD does have a 1350 CV that will bolt to the factory 30 spline flange without modifications now. Before you had to machine the flange or get 32 spline, now they have one that bolts right up.
Heath, I got these done today, but forgot to take the middle seal off the direct clutch piston, so I have to dis-assemble to the point of that drum. I also need to check the apply piston to the rear band. I'll use that method you told me about for that. "Basically you just need to make sure there is still clearance and if not you can grind a tiny bit off the tip until there is, no tool necessary. "
I've been throwing around ideas about needs yet for the drivetrain, and assorted items needed to fit everything together before I can box the frame entirely.
I want to add some plates to the frame right now in areas where the cage will tie in. I've been looking at a few threads to see where good spots have worked for others and will be using some of those ideas.
I'm working on the headers/exhaust details some now, and know what I want to do with the fuel lines (inside the pass side frame) and the brakelines (on top and/or through the frame on drivers side).
I still have shocks to figure out, and doubler crossmembers, which I will do when I get the whole drivetrain in the frame. I need to do bumpstops, and driveshafts also.
Any other items you guys with running rigs can think of as far as the frame/drivetrain areas go?
Link to BBC headers:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=267687
I want to add some plates to the frame right now in areas where the cage will tie in. I've been looking at a few threads to see where good spots have worked for others and will be using some of those ideas.
I'm working on the headers/exhaust details some now, and know what I want to do with the fuel lines (inside the pass side frame) and the brakelines (on top and/or through the frame on drivers side).
I still have shocks to figure out, and doubler crossmembers, which I will do when I get the whole drivetrain in the frame. I need to do bumpstops, and driveshafts also.
Any other items you guys with running rigs can think of as far as the frame/drivetrain areas go?
Link to BBC headers:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=267687
Whacha doing for bump stops?
I've been looking at these shocks, and 4.5" bumpstops:
Daystar Single Stud Competition Style Bump Stop
Bilstein 5150 Series Piggy Back Reservoir Shock
Daystar Single Stud Competition Style Bump Stop
Bilstein 5150 Series Piggy Back Reservoir Shock
Ah, nothing fancy on the bumps? I'm contemplating one of those foam filled pseudo air bump setups for Big Ugly. Front is stock but sits so damn close to the bumps if I bounce it hard on something I just whack right into the bumps.
Oh, like the shocks. Love Bilsteins but no money sadly.
Oh, like the shocks. Love Bilsteins but no money sadly.
