CK5
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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!
- Thread starter 76zimmer
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- 14bff bearing desintigrated 454 cookies custom diy4x aluminum fuel tank diy4x flatback dif covers diy4x frame boxing kit diy4x wraptor/truss ez-efi fords suck hemi orange and school bus yellow index l&l headers long/dana coolers making me her bitch. more tranny problems one tons phoenix trans convertor th400 full manual
jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
Good stuff from everything I've heard.
Might want to talk to tRUSTy about his bumps. I know he had some thoughts on it after he found out the bumps on his K5 didn't touch the axle when the springs compressed.
Might want to talk to tRUSTy about his bumps. I know he had some thoughts on it after he found out the bumps on his K5 didn't touch the axle when the springs compressed.
I still can't figure out why a pair of those simple urethane bump stops are $50. Seems like they should go for $20-25 a pair. 
I'll be checking the motion of the axle when trying to articulate the springs, and take my measurements when I can get it compressed and extended.
I still need to work out the pinion angles too.
I have looked at those air stops for bumps, but just too much money right now. I figure more suspension mods will be a ways out in the future. Just need to get the basics up and going right now. If I waited to get everything the way I wanted it, I'd have to sell some other toys....cant do that.
Anyhow today I got the trans finished up, at least enough to clear the bench of trans parts now, and move on to the transfer cases again.
Ready for use in the mockup phase now:
My TH400 build includes the following:
Rebuild with new steels, and fibers, nothing special here just a transtar kit.
Replaced all 3 stamped steel pistons with cast aluminum ones, which replaced the plastic spring retainers also.
Coan Reverse Pattern Manual Valvebody, with engine braking (looks to be a Cheetah unit).
New rear band, new front band,
Upgraded 34 element intermediate sprag assy, and new direct drum for the 34 element sprag.
Removal of direct piston middle seal, intermediate pump 2nd seal, and plug of the corresponding valvebody passage in the case, to allow more holding power to the direct (high gear) clutches.
Thick intermediate case spacer ring.
Rear roller thrust bearing, replacing the stock thrust washers.
And I got the finishing touch for the D60 today, along with some custom frame brackets for tiedown anchors all from the crew @ DIY4X.
I still need to work out the pinion angles too.
I have looked at those air stops for bumps, but just too much money right now. I figure more suspension mods will be a ways out in the future. Just need to get the basics up and going right now. If I waited to get everything the way I wanted it, I'd have to sell some other toys....cant do that.
Anyhow today I got the trans finished up, at least enough to clear the bench of trans parts now, and move on to the transfer cases again.
Ready for use in the mockup phase now:
My TH400 build includes the following:
Rebuild with new steels, and fibers, nothing special here just a transtar kit.
Replaced all 3 stamped steel pistons with cast aluminum ones, which replaced the plastic spring retainers also.
Coan Reverse Pattern Manual Valvebody, with engine braking (looks to be a Cheetah unit).
New rear band, new front band,
Upgraded 34 element intermediate sprag assy, and new direct drum for the 34 element sprag.
Removal of direct piston middle seal, intermediate pump 2nd seal, and plug of the corresponding valvebody passage in the case, to allow more holding power to the direct (high gear) clutches.
Thick intermediate case spacer ring.
Rear roller thrust bearing, replacing the stock thrust washers.
And I got the finishing touch for the D60 today, along with some custom frame brackets for tiedown anchors all from the crew @ DIY4X.
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I see you already did the work to the TH400, but if you want to pop off the cover and those 6 bolts here's how to check it.
The TH400 reverse band apply pin check:
- Use the large seal ring from the 1-2 accumulator piston. (the one inside the rear servo piston. It should be 2.8" dia, .094" thick).
- Leave that 1-2 piston out of the rear servo assembly, leave the spring out too. (for this check only)
- Install rear servo piston in the case.
- lay that seal ring on top of the piston.
- take the servo cover and try to push it down and touch the case (no gasket). If you can't do it with hand pressure, you need more clearance
- shorten it .030" at a time with a bench grinder, keep the same tip shape.
It also says 99% of the time the pin is fine the way it is. And if reverse is very harsh, that's a sign the clearance is excessive.
The TH400 reverse band apply pin check:
- Use the large seal ring from the 1-2 accumulator piston. (the one inside the rear servo piston. It should be 2.8" dia, .094" thick).
- Leave that 1-2 piston out of the rear servo assembly, leave the spring out too. (for this check only)
- Install rear servo piston in the case.
- lay that seal ring on top of the piston.
- take the servo cover and try to push it down and touch the case (no gasket). If you can't do it with hand pressure, you need more clearance
- shorten it .030" at a time with a bench grinder, keep the same tip shape.
It also says 99% of the time the pin is fine the way it is. And if reverse is very harsh, that's a sign the clearance is excessive.
I've been looking at these shocks, and 4.5" bumpstops:
Daystar Single Stud Competition Style Bump Stop
Bilstein 5150 Series Piggy Back Reservoir Shock
I run 5150's on the front and those 4.5" Daystar bumps on the back and I've been happy with both. Good bang for the buck imo.
Heath I just printed this out for a future double check. Thanks again.
Avery....good to hear. I was kinda shootin in the dark on a shock setup.
My springs are probably stiff, but I can remove some leaves to soften it up some. They are 8/1 leave 56" from a 3/4t. The fronts are Superlift 6", and are 5 leaves. We'll see how it all pans out.
Thanks Gmac. always good to hear encouragement, and appreciation...I've run into a few snags, which pretty much happens every time I work on something it seems like. Any how I hope posting up what I run into (like the 14BFF gear setup, D60 kingpin, and the shafts in the trans, and t/c's) and the solution to the problems I hope can help others. I also am relying heavily on help from the brotherhood here, as I'm making mods that I haven't gotten into before, and the experience is invaluable.
Running into issues is something I've just come to expect. I go into must projects learning as I go and lots of times I learn the hard way. I thought removing every single rivet from my frame was a great idea so that I could sandblast every little nook and cranny. Turned into far more of a project than I was ready for... You are right about the valuable information, your gear set-up pics and information will help me get through mine.
I'm glad to hear that....I learned to use new gears 
, but then I have only tried twice to do this. The first one was a D44....after changing bearing shims for the 3rd time....I said fook it. A 14 is much better though.
, but then I have only tried twice to do this. The first one was a D44....after changing bearing shims for the 3rd time....I said fook it. A 14 is much better though.
Now that I have the TH400/203 part of the doubler together, I started on the 205 cleaning and prepping for assembly.
Found this while taking apart the rear output shaft assembly. Luckily I have a spare 205, and the speedo gear in that one is good still.
And this vent was threaded into the rear output housing, I'm used to them being a pressed in type....it was pretty knarly, so a cleanup of the threads was necessary in the housing, and I think I'll look to find another vent tube.
Found this while taking apart the rear output shaft assembly. Luckily I have a spare 205, and the speedo gear in that one is good still.
And this vent was threaded into the rear output housing, I'm used to them being a pressed in type....it was pretty knarly, so a cleanup of the threads was necessary in the housing, and I think I'll look to find another vent tube.
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I was just reviewing some of my links to this thread...this one was about the 454 purchase:
"well I would like to get out of the engine for 1500 or so carb to headers. I gotta build this whole truck, so if I can get a good engine and only have to put gaskets, and maybe bearings/rings in it, that would sure help the cause. Are Vortecs reasonable used?
I should mention that I'll only give 500$ for it if the pistons/bores are in good enough shape to run, with a hone, I don't want to pay this, and have to bore and new pistons. "
What a dreamer....If I only knew then, what I know now.....
I probably wouldn't have started this project yet.
"well I would like to get out of the engine for 1500 or so carb to headers. I gotta build this whole truck, so if I can get a good engine and only have to put gaskets, and maybe bearings/rings in it, that would sure help the cause. Are Vortecs reasonable used?
I should mention that I'll only give 500$ for it if the pistons/bores are in good enough shape to run, with a hone, I don't want to pay this, and have to bore and new pistons. "
What a dreamer....If I only knew then, what I know now.....
I probably wouldn't have started this project yet.
time to go on the ramen noodle diet.....
it's not as bad as you would think.....
it's not as bad as you would think.....
At just 12 cents a meal and 36 cents a day, just think of how much money you could save towards the build!
cool guys, but what about my chocolate fix?
Really, I'm just so outta control right now....when I come to my sense's I'll slap myself upside the head, and say WTF did I just do?
Til then I'm living the dream....ha ha, my daughters inheritance is going up in cubic inches.....
FUNNERNHELL here we come.
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
i was on the ramen noodle diet most of my life haha.now if you can find cup o' noodle,then you get your vegies in there with the noodles also.cup of milk on the side and you have your complete 4 food group meal.add a mini snickers and dessert then covered also.lol.time to go on the ramen noodle diet.....
it's not as bad as you would think.....
your truck is coming along nicely by the way.nice cleanup and repaint of those components.someday you might even be able to drive it.lol.it will all pay off when you are rollin it down the trail.better than a half ass build you wont be as happy with and would have done what you are doing now anyway.
I'm liking the results I'm coming up with on my pieces, just taking a lot longer, and more $$$$ than I'd hoped it would. But yeah, when I hit the happy pedal, I'll be all smiles I'm sure....
My dam 205 front output is taking forever to get here WTF...they put a trace on the package today to find out whats going on...
So my head guy emailed me the flow numbers for the 781 Oval Ports....
intake exhaust
.100--86 73 @28"
.200--169 128
.300--237 194
.400--285 216
.500--318 227
.600--319 227
Never had heads flow benched before....anyone know how these numbers look?
I just went to the best guy I know, and let him handle it....
by entering those flow numbers in my Dyno 2000 program, with small tube headers &mufflers, 800cfm dual plane intake, 9.4 compression, cam +4 advance....I get a peak of 470 hp, and torque peak of 550 @ 3500. The torque is 525 @ 2000rpm, and still is above 530 @ 4500 rpm. NICE, this engine just keeps getting better.
My dam 205 front output is taking forever to get here WTF...they put a trace on the package today to find out whats going on...
So my head guy emailed me the flow numbers for the 781 Oval Ports....
intake exhaust
.100--86 73 @28"
.200--169 128
.300--237 194
.400--285 216
.500--318 227
.600--319 227
Never had heads flow benched before....anyone know how these numbers look?
I just went to the best guy I know, and let him handle it....
by entering those flow numbers in my Dyno 2000 program, with small tube headers &mufflers, 800cfm dual plane intake, 9.4 compression, cam +4 advance....I get a peak of 470 hp, and torque peak of 550 @ 3500. The torque is 525 @ 2000rpm, and still is above 530 @ 4500 rpm. NICE, this engine just keeps getting better.
Nice, and uses pump gas as well.
for comparison you can check out these Edelbrock RPM oval port heads, scroll to the bottom, I think you'll be happy...
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/cylheads/chevy/bb_perf_rpm.shtml
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/cylheads/chevy/bb_perf_rpm.shtml
