CK5
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no that outer gear I had to pry out with chisels...too much interference to try and measure it.
I have 3 895 pumps, one of them should be good!
In the meantime, I have a partially flooded basement...I'll be ripping up carpet and moving stuff to shopvac the floor. We had over 1.5 inches in less than an hour and it overwhelmed my gutter by my egress window....I got dirty water in about 1/3 of my basement.
 
no that outer gear I had to pry out with chisels...too much interference to try and measure it.
I have 3 895 pumps, one of them should be good!
In the meantime, I have a partially flooded basement...I'll be ripping up carpet and moving stuff to shopvac the floor. We had over 1.5 inches in less than an hour and it overwhelmed my gutter by my egress window....I got dirty water in about 1/3 of my basement.
:doah:
 
Also, don't go hog wild with line pressure, keep it below 200psi at wide open throttle, maybe even less than 175psi. Excessive pressure could have busted these gears.
I didn't know that. Does line pressure even change with vacuum on a manual valve body? Will it hit full pressure at idle or does it need some revs?
 
vacuum on a manual v/b? but how?
I'll be doing a pressure test when its up and functional again.
 
Once you remove the vacuum modulator the pressure mainly varies by what gear you have the manual valve in, all of the pressure testing readings usually state 1000-1200 RPM, so at idle it could still be a bit low for lack of flow.

Normal pressures with no vacuum connected at 1200 RPM are 135-165 psi in forward gears and 235-260 psi in reverse. Pressures in neutral or park might only be 55-70 psi.

Pressure in drive is usually lower than 2nd or low gear, but once the vacuum is dropped or the detent solenod is activated it rises. With your full manual valvebody you likely eliminated the detent solenoid, governor, vacuum modulator, etc so it should be at full pressure in every forward gear by 1200 RPM I would think.
 
this has been brought up before in this thread as well as others....transmission oil cooler mounting. I mounted both of mine with ports down when building the truck, based on GM's mounting on my 99 2500.
I believe most GM trucks from 99 and up that use an auxiliary cooler use the plate/fin type. They are mounted with the ports pointing downward. The less efficient tube/fin type require mounting with side ports or top ports. I looked up the LONG brand (division of Dana corp) of cooler that I have been using and their product brochure with frequently asked questions is informative:

What is the difference between “tube & fin” and Tru-Cool coolers? A Tru-Cool cooler has many plates for ATF to flow more efficiently. It also has more “live” surface area than tube & fin, which further enhances cooling. Finally, though both designs are made of aluminum, the design and manufacturing processes behind Tru-Cool coolers make them much more durable.
How can larger tube & fin coolers offer less cooling? Bigger isn’t always better. Tube & fin designs are inefficient and have a lot of dead space, while the Tru-Cool stacked plate design puts most of the oil close to the surfaces that are in contact with passing air. In fact, when it comes to cooling, the Tru-Cool cooler is up to 30% more efficient than tube & fin designs.
Which cooler should I use for a diesel application? In most diesel applications, the transmission line is large. The cooler’s fitting should not be smaller than the lines. The smaller lines will restrict the transmission fluid flow.
The fittings supplied do not work with my application. What should I do? We have supplied fittings for the four most common applications. Compression fittings can be purchased separately from your local distributor. Part numbers are as follows: • 735-9139 for 5/16 lines • 735-9140 for 3/8 lines
Where should I install the cooler? If possible, locate the cooler in an area where it will be exposed to ram air. This helps maximize cooling. Install the cooler in series and downstream of the radiator in-tank oil cooler. This maximizes heat transfer and decreases transmission warm-up times in colder weather. Most OEM installations are plumbed this way.
How should I mount the oil cooler fittings? Fittings can be located up, down or sideways. This advantage, plus their compact design, makes installation of our coolers quick and easy.
Should I disconnect the radiator in-tank oil cooler when I install a Tru-Cool cooler? Whenever possible, do not disconnect the in-tank oil cooler. It offers additional cooling and helps preheat the transmission. In colder climates, the in-tank oil cooler should never be disconnected from the system.
Will putting an oil cooler in front of the radiator increase the engine operating temperature? Not normally. Putting an auxiliary oil cooler system in the system decreases the temperature in the radiator in-tank oil cooler, and this in turn puts less of a load on the radiator. From a total system standpoint, the engine operating temperatures should vary little from where they were before the oil cooler was installed.
Will installing an oil cooler affect my vehicle customer warranty? It could, depending on which cooler you install. Vehicle manufacturers do not normally approve of the installation of tube & fin coolers, since they are very flow-restrictive. LPD oil coolers, though, are virtually the only cooler now being used for OEM factory installations.
contact your local dealer for approval. Dana-backed quality


HERE is the whole brochure: http://media.spicerparts.com/cfs/files/media/JuzYrhRsKxtwj9rTr/tru-bro-52014 2.pdf?store=original
 
So this thing is running and loaded on the trailer for Dunefest or what?
 
Yeah that was probably 2008-09
The Jeepster don’t look that good anymore either....:(
 
One more thing, I don't remember if we talked about grounds. Be sure there is no paint on the bellhousing face or block face and add a good ground strap from trans case to chassis. We have seen many instances of poor grounds destroying pumps.

I have never heard of having a ground strap on a transmission. I have owned a few completely never messed with GM trucks and cars back in the late 70's to mid-80's with a T400, and I have never run across one with a factory ground strap. I am not saying that I disagree or anything, but it is something I have never come across.

Since you know more about this than I do, then I better put one on my 4L80E because it does not have one. It probably has a ground somewhere in the internal harness, but it would not hurt to have another on the bell housing bolts if it is going to help.
 
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mopar had ground straps on steering knuckles of cars . cause if it wasnt there it would burn up the unit bearing in a much shorter life span than with it . must of been a static electricity problem . also if you have electronics in stuff these days its better to have grounds going to each so there is less chance of problems . @1-ton
 
I have never heard of having a ground strap on a transmission. I have owned a few completely never messed with GM trucks and cars back in the late 70's to mid-80's with a T400, and I have never run across one with a factory ground strap. I am not saying that I disagree or anything, but it is something I have never come across.

Since you know more about this than I do, then I better put one on my 4L80E because it does not have one. It probably has a ground somewhere in the internal harness, but it would not hurt to have another on the bell housing bolts if it is going to help.


Mutt's an 89, and has it... the body strap grd goes to the bellhousing bolt...
 
Fluid flowing will create static electricity, so it makes sense to help with grounding the case.
 
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