Sounds rumbly and mean man.
CK5
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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!
- Thread starter 76zimmer
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- 14bff bearing desintigrated 454 cookies custom diy4x aluminum fuel tank diy4x flatback dif covers diy4x frame boxing kit diy4x wraptor/truss ez-efi fords suck hemi orange and school bus yellow index l&l headers long/dana coolers making me her bitch. more tranny problems one tons phoenix trans convertor th400 full manual
jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
magik235
Still Alive
Coooooool...
Rene
Rene
Thanks guys, I had earplugs in the whole time, and pulled em out while standing at the back of the truck, and WOW, time to put those back in. 
I got my head guy coming this week to put the 2nd set of springs in, and I'll be starting the next thing on the list....Transfer case craddle.
I got my head guy coming this week to put the 2nd set of springs in, and I'll be starting the next thing on the list....Transfer case craddle.
Sounds good Dave! I am sure it sounded even better in person. I know once you get the timing and carb adjusted it will be awesome!
Get that thing ready for the spring! Hopefully now you have enough "motorvation" to get it finished up...
Get that thing ready for the spring! Hopefully now you have enough "motorvation" to get it finished up...
I'm working on it Heath. I did find I'm a tooth off on dist., I can't get it in time in the position the dist. is, so I need to back it up a tooth so I can set the timing right. Still playing around with the carb too. Feels like its wanting to backfire internally in the carb. Hopefully the distributor repositioning will take care of that. Starting to figure out a doubler craddle now. Head guy is coming on Wed. for the spring change.
found what my miss was. Had an exhaust rocker back off. I must not have tightened the set screw in the adjuster nut....
Anyhow today I messed around with it more til I found that, then dissassembled the rockers for the spring change tomorrow.
I'm liking my roller tip pattern on the valvestems here:
Been working on some ideas for the doubler mounting also.
Anyhow today I messed around with it more til I found that, then dissassembled the rockers for the spring change tomorrow.
I'm liking my roller tip pattern on the valvestems here:
Been working on some ideas for the doubler mounting also.
found what my miss was. Had an exhaust rocker back off. I must not have tightened the set screw in the adjuster nut....
Everything is looking good Zim, hopefully it didn't already cause any damage to the rocker arm or pushrod tip and your good to go after the spring change. And the bigger question, was the poly lock actually loose, or just the rocker? I sure hope the engine wasn't wiping a cam lobe out, that would be a big bummer after all those preventative measures.
a casual observance didn't show anything, I found that rocker just off to the side of the spring, so it was clear of the pushrod, but I'll look closer....thanks Heath.
So you got your head guy coming to your place SWEET!! Must be a cool guy, but if I was into building motors like that I would be more then willing to go over to a buddys place and play. Nice bb,nice vet= good times. Hope it all turns out well.
His performance and wait in line for work speaks volumes for him.
You have to get your junk to him about 3-4 months in advance of when you want it.
All he does is heads/intakes/carbs....
here is his website.
http://www.arnoldcylinderheads.com/
He's very easy to talk with, and even at the racetrack he'll invite you in to bs if he has time.
You have to get your junk to him about 3-4 months in advance of when you want it.
All he does is heads/intakes/carbs....
here is his website.
http://www.arnoldcylinderheads.com/
He's very easy to talk with, and even at the racetrack he'll invite you in to bs if he has time.
Jerry came over today and we got the springs changed. We looked over the exhaust rocker that came off, and not any noticeable marks to the rocker, spring retainer, or pushrod. He had some shims under the single spring on the exhaust to give adequate pressure for breakin. We removed those and put in the inner springs on all the valves.
I then put the rockers back on and lashed the valves to .018 cold. Specs call for .015 hot.
Now looking over a doubler setup, and come up with this.
The two crossmembers I have are from a K30 C&C....the double hump type, with a single stud mount to the crossmember, and then bolts to the trans/transfer case adapter.
The second crossmember is flat, with the 2 clamshell type mounts.
I think I'll try to incorporate both of those mounting systems with a poly bumpstop support under the front output side of the 205. I have poly engine mounts from DIY4X, so I think sticking with Poly for all the mounts is the way to go. The 205 bumpstop support will be attached to the cradle, but just be free floating under the 205.
So where to get the poly t/c mounts? Any ideas?
I then put the rockers back on and lashed the valves to .018 cold. Specs call for .015 hot.
Now looking over a doubler setup, and come up with this.
The two crossmembers I have are from a K30 C&C....the double hump type, with a single stud mount to the crossmember, and then bolts to the trans/transfer case adapter.
The second crossmember is flat, with the 2 clamshell type mounts.
I think I'll try to incorporate both of those mounting systems with a poly bumpstop support under the front output side of the 205. I have poly engine mounts from DIY4X, so I think sticking with Poly for all the mounts is the way to go. The 205 bumpstop support will be attached to the cradle, but just be free floating under the 205.
So where to get the poly t/c mounts? Any ideas?
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Clearance is king Dave, building your own mounts is not very difficult and you may free up as much as 2" of clearance at the belly. Use the builder bushings from Kert and just build two different crossmembers.
My one custom one is made from 3/8" flat plate, cut and welded then ground down to make it smooth. I didn't have enough to do the front one so I modified another crossmember.
I realize this may take some more time but is worth it. In addition you can build a skidplate in between the two x members.
I say build your own Dave with the body off it will be easy, although I would try to get some of the brake and fuel lines back on there to make sure you clear them
My one custom one is made from 3/8" flat plate, cut and welded then ground down to make it smooth. I didn't have enough to do the front one so I modified another crossmember.
I realize this may take some more time but is worth it. In addition you can build a skidplate in between the two x members.
I say build your own Dave with the body off it will be easy, although I would try to get some of the brake and fuel lines back on there to make sure you clear them
I agree with the ground clearance Eric...I have the 205 clocked up 2" just for that reason, so keeping a low profile belly would definitely be beneficial. The fuel line is on, and brake lines will be going on top of the frame rail. My only other obstacle for the crossmembers, is welding on reinforcement for roll bar mounting plates to the side of the frame. I need to measure where those will be connecting from the body to the frame at.
So using the builder bushings (which I can rob a few for now from other parts) those would be mounted outboard of the center of each adapter plate? I'm just having a tough time picturing how to get it all together. I realize that my frame/cage will be quite rigid, so the mounting points can be moved outboard more than from center, but to keep in mind removeable mounting also.
So using the builder bushings (which I can rob a few for now from other parts) those would be mounted outboard of the center of each adapter plate? I'm just having a tough time picturing how to get it all together. I realize that my frame/cage will be quite rigid, so the mounting points can be moved outboard more than from center, but to keep in mind removeable mounting also.
If you remember mine, I used bushings on the outside of the frame and bolts to the stock t-case mounting positions.
The bushings would mount to the frame, weld tabs onto the frame and then the bushings attach to the crossmember. Or you could put the tabs on the crossmember and put the bushings on the frame.
The bushings would mount to the frame, weld tabs onto the frame and then the bushings attach to the crossmember. Or you could put the tabs on the crossmember and put the bushings on the frame.
Eric, was your mounted like that before the present cage was put in?
I don't remember what it was like so much. Got a pic of it?
So you bolted the crossmembers' directly to the t/c's and then ran each crossmember to the framerails at which point there is a poly bushing attached to tabs on the frame. Did you support the 205 where it is hanging low by the pass side?
I don't remember what it was like so much. Got a pic of it?
So you bolted the crossmembers' directly to the t/c's and then ran each crossmember to the framerails at which point there is a poly bushing attached to tabs on the frame. Did you support the 205 where it is hanging low by the pass side?
I will try to find some pics of it, if I can't I will go take some tomorrow. My setup needs some changing as I am using rubber motor mounts and rubber mounts on the first xmember, but poly on the rear xmember.
Nope no pics I will take some tomorrow
Nope no pics I will take some tomorrow
I don't have a doubler but when I made my custom crossmember I kept the factory style mounts. Which isn't necessary but if you are going to use poly fab bushings I would keep them inboard more. You have a big block, and it will break your TH400 case if it is not supported correctly. Keep in mind you are already doubling the number of mounts, which doubles the resistance. If you spread the mounts out more it will multiply both of the mounts. You want the engine mounts to absorb the torque, the trans/tcase mounts should just hold the weight of those components up, not absorb torque.
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