77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!

[76zimmer]

That would be cool, I could stay after work and work in the shop....yeah thats it!

Thanks for the props MAX!

 

[max 02]

That would be cool, I could stay after work and work in the shop....yeah thats it!

Thanks for the props MAX!

I like your builds!

 

[76zimmer]

Thanks Max, I can say I'm happy with the results so far, but if it weren't for the garage gang, I'm sure I wouldn't be where I am with this build.

I got back to working on the rear support of the cradle today, need to take it to work to drill some holes in it...

 

[boggerless]

baddass Dave! i wish i lived closer to help and learn myself...but then we would prolly start BSing and not get anything done..

 

[76zimmer]

Thats BrainStorming Daryl....we could pace ourselves....work for 60 min. BS for 30, work for 40, BS for 30, work for 20, BS for 30 you get the idea, hey we'd still be working! Sometimes you just gotta brainstorm ideas ya know.

 

[blazinzuk]

That looks good Dave. Very nice

 

[76zimmer]

Oversight #1 for the cradle....from the bottom, the 1/2" bolts go through the cradle and up into the center t/c adapter, with a poly bushing between the cradle and the adapter. Will the strongest loctite hold these bolts in place without any real amount of torque on them (due to the bushing compressing).

Imagine if you will...the bolt going through the bushing in the pic and compressing it about 1/8" or so, but not having any amount of resistance to the bolt.

The two in the rear, I can run a bolt through those with a locknut on them, so no worry there, and the two in the front I can grind the top side of the adapter flat to accept a nut there, so that will work, but I'm concerned about the 2 in the middle...

 

[76zimmer]

That looks good Dave. Very nice

Thanks Eric. Dude I gotta call ya soon.

 

[blazinzuk]

Whenever Dave I have been up to about 1 or 2 am for a while now due to certain things.

As far as the bolt problem, there are several different types of lockwashers I think would work, search for nord lock. A bolt with a flange that is serrated on the other side may offer enough of a mechanical lock to prevent it from loosening.

Even just a normal lockwasher may do it just fine.

 

[76zimmer]

I'll try tonight when I get home from work then.....

We use some Belleville washers at work on some valve handles to keep them from loosening....they never seem to loosen up, and they don't have much torque on the nut to retain it to the valve handle either....

or maybe a bolt lock retainer like this one from a Vette:

 

[max 02]

I like the retainer idea. Locktight, that I try to use alot... just don`t work so well,with our farm equipment.
JMO.
Might work perfect for that that, just nead to check the bolts every so often.

 

[Greg72]

Maybe a nyloc nut or a castle nut with a cotter pin?

 

[ryoken]

if ya wanna make em stupid hard to ever get out, use the green loctite... made for bearing races, etc.... sh*t makes the red look like a joke... not it's intended purpose, but holds like a mofo...

 

[82355]

^ #680

Martin

 

[76zimmer]

I like the retainer idea. Locktight, that I try to use alot... just don`t work so well,with our farm equipment.
JMO.
Might work perfect for that that, just nead to check the bolts every so often.

Max, I got a good feeling today while trial assembly onto the adapters....the bushings are tight enough that I had to use a ratchet to thread the bolts through them, and into the adapter. I feel that with that resistance there shouldn't be an issue of them loosening up, with the loctite Ryoken listed below as a safety measure too.

Maybe a nyloc nut or a castle nut with a cotter pin?

Greg these are going to be the center 2 bolts going in from the bottom. If using a nut, that would require a stud, and would that require loctite or something also to secure it in the adapter?

if ya wanna make em stupid hard to ever get out, use the green loctite... made for bearing races, etc.... sh*t makes the red look like a joke... not it's intended purpose, but holds like a mofo...

I like that idea Paul, maybe used on a stud, with a nut as Greg mentions?

^ #680

Martin

Martin is that the loctite part # ?

 

[82355]

Yes.

Martin

 

[76zimmer]

Before I can decide what I want to do with a doubler support crossmember(s) I felt I needed to trial fit the anti-wrap bar and rear truss backbone from DIY4X to make sure I wouldn't be putting a crossmember in where the antiwrap bar crossmember needs to go. I need to talk with Kert some about some details on installation of the front pieces, but I think I may be able to squeeze that crossmember in under the rear yoke, I just need to leave a way out for the doubler if needed.

Here are the parts for the antiwrap and backbone truss kits.

The crossmember and brackets in a trial position.

The links to the backbone and pinion pivots.

I need to put the rear 14b ring under my diff cover, and it should all bolt together. I also had Kert leave the links long and the crossmember unassembled as I knew this would be a custom installation.

Just talked with Kert about some details on these pieces....I gotta say, if you haven't dealt with Kert, you need to. Outstanding pieces, and a great guy to talk with.

 

[cybrfire]

Dave,

For some reason, when I spoke to you I was thinking you were screwing together a shortbox.

Blazer being the case, my comments on the guardsman were misplaced.

Carry on!

 

[76zimmer]

I should mention the above pics are for a K5 only....the pickups, and burbs have a center mounted pinion plate and bar setup.

 

[cybrfire]

Are those links hooked to anything in that photo or just a photo for documentation sake?