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You are brave to post a running total of your spending on the project. My wife would kill me if stumbled across it and found out how much I have spent. :crazy:

...and I haven't even done that much. :doah:
 
That was one thing I did when I did my Vette, and it is surprising how much people think I spent, and what I actually did. I pretty much kept a running total of it, even though it took 15 years. People were off with their guess', both high and low. I'm trying to do this on a budget that I've "OK'd" with myself, of 10K. That is beyond the purchase price of the vehicle, and the components purchased a few years ago, which itself added up to 1500$, and I don't have to pay for on this phase of my project. I'm trying to do the rest of it on the 10K. So I know I will make some compromises, but not in reliablility or safety, and will rectifiy those situations as the budget recovers. Those items will be cosmetics, wants, and upgrades beyond what I have planned for now. The budget only includes the parts and purchased labor to get this done. It does not include tools (such as a bender) or perhaps a winch. I may treat myself to that outside the budget, as its not a necessity to get this thing off road usuable.
I'm already thinking, I'm going to be over by a 1000-1500$. I'll have to work more OT, or holidays to get that in the bank......stay tuned.












Ummmm....and I got rid of the wife.....both of em.....funny how the 1st thought being a gearhead was just a phase.:D
 
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Ummmm....and I got rid of the wife.....both of em.....funny how the 1st thought being a gearhead was just a phase.:D


They're kinda funny that way. Mine kept wanting me to sell my old trucks and get a new one.

Like we could have afforded one anyways...:rolleyes:
 
I do have a detailed brakedown of what I have spent. I just keep it hidden :crazy: Not every nut and bolt, but pretty close. It all adds up scary fast. The total is still a small fraction of a new truck, but several multiples of the original purchase price. :yikes:

Spread out over 2-3 years (so far) I guess it isn't too bad though.
 
They're kinda funny that way. Mine kept wanting me to sell my old trucks and get a new one.

Like we could have afforded one anyways...:rolleyes:

Yeah, sell em all, and still have to come up with 20-30K....uhh.....no.
 
I do have a detailed brakedown of what I have spent. I just keep it hidden :crazy: Not every nut and bolt, but pretty close. It all adds up scary fast. The total is still a small fraction of a new truck, but several multiples of the original purchase price. :yikes:

Spread out over 2-3 years (so far) I guess it isn't too bad though.

And way better than spending it in the bar, or chasing wimen. at least this way you have something to show for it. I work with a guy that in reality spends 350-500$ a week at the bar.....know sh!t.....he lives in a trailer, pays no lot rent or utilities, and only has a car payment of 800$ a month.
 
I got the pinion gear shaft and the crush sleeve (spacer) the bearings, and the new 1410 ubolt pinion yoke, and nut, all on now, and have 10-12 in./lb turning torque with the pinion out of the axle housing. I should have somewhere around 15-20in/lb with one new bearing (only needed to replace the pinion pilot, or straddle bearing) of torque required to turn the pinion, but the manual doesn't say if this is with the ring gear in the housing.


1) Do I measure just the pinion torque, or is it with the ring gear too?

2) I'm using an old Snap on 3/8" drive torque wrench (dial type) with a 1/2 and 3/4 adapters on the 1-1/2" socket. Will this make a difference?
 
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Daryl, I'm thinking I need to get my junk going first, then maybe I'll tackle yours eh?

So I figured that it is the pinion only.....why would you check it with the Diff in too, that would only add more drag. So I got the pinion in the axle housing, and turned it with the torque wrench, and walla, got lucky and have about 15-20 first time out. Good thing, I was getting tired or hauling this thing back and forth to work every night.


Kind of a sh!tty pic, but it shows the turning torque for the pinion set up.

HPIM1409.jpg



Setting the backlash. I had to move the screw collars around a little, but like what I ended up with. .007

HPIM1412.jpg

HPIM1413.jpg


And now for the expertise, I started with no shims on the pinion, and had a shallow tooth pattern, so I put in a .010, and came up with this. It looks deep on the accelleration side, but shallow, and off the teeth some on the coast side. Unfortunately I couldn't locate any gear setup grease today, so I put some lubriplate on the teeth. If needed, I can locate some on Fri. and redo the shots, maybe a little clearer too.

What do I need to do here?

HPIM1414.jpg
 
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can't help ya on the gears, i'll be doing my first pair in a couple months......

but is that yellow zinc I see?!? :bow:


I'm back to using the green myself....
 
I just read through your thread, looks pretty good. keep the update and progress comeing!
Seems like progress is slow lately, somewhat unfamiliar territory for me here with gear setup, but with the help from CK5 I'll get through it, and keep the postings coming too.

Paul, Yes it is, I just got a case of that stuff. The damn push nozzle drips out around the top of the can on one of em though. Oh well, just a protective coat for now.
 
try swapping tips from another can... i've never had the zinc ones do that, but i've definitely had a few weld-thru primer cans do it... got a can of 3M down there now that does it..
 
I'd love to help, but I can't see the pattern in those pics.

Try getting a better closeup. Also the pattern will show better with the correct marking compound. I have used Prussian Blue before but it only shows well if you have lots of resistance on the carrier and a bright flash on the camera.
 
NO, I didn't. My GM manual doesn't go into enough detail on the 10.5 for setting up the gear pattern. It does for the 8.5 type setup, and the Dana's, but not the 10.5.

Thanks for mentioning that. I will do that, and get some REAL gear marking compound for a better pic too.
 
After seeing the Pirate posting mentioned above, that the pinion preload torque check should be checked while the pinion housing is OUT of the axle housing, I rechecked my turning torque, and it was about 10in/lb. Really got lucky on that, as I didn't have a tool to hold the pinion housing, while tightening the pinion yoke onto the pinion gear shaft. I put the new crush sleeve on, then the front pinion bearing, I used a press to put the bearing on until it was seated against the crush sleeve. that took about 10 tons pressure to know it was fully seated. I then put the seal in, then the yoke, then the old washer and nut to tighten the yoke on, and start the crush process. I hit it with an impact gun until the yoke was seated onto the pinion shaft to wear I could see the tip of the threads on the pinion shaft. I then checked torque, and kept hitting it with the impact (3/4" drive w/ 175lb air supply) just a little at a time til I got to see some resistance on the torque wrench. I kept bumping the trigger on the gun til I had about 10in/lb. or rotational torque resistance. The removed the old nut and washer and replaced with a new integrated nut/washer. I have no idea what the torque was to get the preload, but I ended up with 10in/lb which is where I want to be for used bearings.
 
Readymix: "Try getting a better closeup. Also the pattern will show better with the correct marking compound. I have used Prussian Blue before but it only shows well if you have lots of resistance on the carrier and a bright flash on the camera."

I wasn't able to find any gear marking compound in the area, so I bugged my cylinder head guy, and he had some prussian blue, from Permatex. Then when I got to work tonight I found some white pastey grease, that might show up better on the camera.
I reset the diff bearing preload, and also the backlash today, after putting in the .010 pinion shim. I'll see what kind of pattern I have tonight when I get home. I'll post more up, if I make any progress.
 
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