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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!

jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
Overview Gallery Discussion
made a template of the frame rail behind the crossmember, and laid that out on the metal from the kit, I cut the metal to size, and will "form" to fit the frame.

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The points on the frame rails will get ground down flush to match the profile of the rest of the area. I'm not sure what these points were for, maybe a locator in a press or something?

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This crossmember as well as the one behind it are being removed to ease the making of templates for Kert's K5 Kit.

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I got the biggest crossmember off today....let me say, a torch is your friend, and a grinder, and a chisel. Didn't catch anything on fire so it was a good day. This one crossmember took about 3 hours to get off the frame. 16 rivets, some in not so good a place to get to, inside the frame rail, and behind the crossmember lower brace.

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In addition I started checking out my options for the doubler set up.
My 205 is a long input 32 spline, my 203 is a T350/27 spline, my T400 is a long output 32 spline, so looks like some parts need changing to make this work.....more $$$ blowing out the budget...gotta think about this one.



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I got the frame crossmembers removed yesterday, all but the most forward and most rearward ones. Templates are made and on the way to Kert for the K5 boxing kit.

check out Kerts thread about the boxing kits, (in the vendor forum) and add your input or questions about the kit.

I'll post some pics up soon of the templates on my frame.
 
76zimmer said:
In addition I started checking out my options for the doubler set up.
My 205 is a long input 32 spline, my 203 is a T350/27 spline, my T400 is a long output 32 spline, so looks like some parts need changing to make this work.....more $$$ blowing out the budget...gotta think about this one.



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I'm done thinking about this one. If you've read the thread on the 27 spline output T400, its been thrashed out for me to go with the 32 spline setup throughout the trans/transfer case doubler setup.
I just feel with a strong BB, it will be a little more insurance to have the bigger parts in there.
The 27 spline T400/203 shaft I would run in a heartbeat behind even a strong small block. I just feel I don't want to take this thing apart again to replace more parts, that I can avoid right now.

Now that the holiday stuff is over, and I have my other projects tamed for the moment, I can get back to work on this thing. Next up T400 teardown, and more frame work.
 
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It is looking good. Are you planning on running any tubes or anything inside of the frame rails for electrical, fuel lines, and such before boxing?
 
I have thought about running a 1/2" fuel, and front to rear brakeline inside the box, like the factory had them, therefore I will only be tacking the boxing kit in place for now. I also have a small body lift on this, so it shouldn't be a problem to run them above the frame either. I also have some mods to make for the crossmembers being re-attached to the frame. A couple of the stock crossmembers have an attachment above the top rail, and on top of the lower rail. I thought about spreading those crossmembers a little to go to the bottom of the lower rail, and weld in some nuts inside the frame rail for attachment.
 
one avenue for routing thru a boxed frame is what I came up with for my welder bud's 27 when he boxed the frame, we took some 1 1/4" thinwall tube, ran it in the frame before boxing, bent it 45 degrees at the ends, and had it come out the inside plate at each end... cut it flush and welded it... came out seriously trick....
 
No sh!t, sounds really good. So that would be like a main conduit line for others to run inside of, if I'm thinking right?
I was thinking of running them on the inside, of the outer original vertical frame section, and securing them with tubing clamps to the rail.
I like that idea even better though.
 
yup, an internal conduit/wire chase in the frame... the holes/welded ends end up kinda like an oval with the tube ending at an angle.. obviously it's a bit more work than just clamping something to the frame, but it did come out slick as weasel snot....
 
ryoken said:
yup, an internal conduit/wire chase in the frame... the holes/welded ends end up kinda like an oval with the tube ending at an angle.. obviously it's a bit more work than just clamping something to the frame, but it did come out slick as weasel snot....
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:haha::haha::haha:NICE
 
I don't think you'll notice any difference in strenght one way or the other reguarding stitching or welding solid. Same on the type of weld joint you set up with the frame boxing pieces. I prefer a solid weld. Just less places for water to sit.

Easier to weld with the slight lip created with what is pictured in the other thread. You do lose one big advantage that way though.

One thing that kinda stinks with the "C" channel frame, building crossmembers is always more involved with the channel if you want it up inside the frame. You'll still have that to some degree with the weld edge. If you set it up so the weld is right on the corner you should end up with a flat inside surface.
 
ryoken said:
yup, an internal conduit/wire chase in the frame... the holes/welded ends end up kinda like an oval with the tube ending at an angle.. obviously it's a bit more work than just clamping something to the frame, but it did come out slick as weasel snot....
Click to expand...

Thinking about this more today, and trying to figure how to run 1/2" and 3/16" tubing inside of this chase, after it is in place? I could see running like braided hose through there (which I don't like the idea of welding around the area that it would be in). Straight tubing (of course it will need some bends in it) to get it through the chase is the problem I forsee. How did you do that Paul, or am I thinking wrong here?
 
cybrfire said:
I don't think you'll notice any difference in strenght one way or the other reguarding stitching or welding solid. Same on the type of weld joint you set up with the frame boxing pieces. I prefer a solid weld. Just less places for water to sit.

Easier to weld with the slight lip created with what is pictured in the other thread. You do lose one big advantage that way though.

One thing that kinda stinks with the "C" channel frame, building crossmembers is always more involved with the channel if you want it up inside the frame. You'll still have that to some degree with the weld edge. If you set it up so the weld is right on the corner you should end up with a flat inside surface.
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Great comments Kert....I think I will spread the lower part of the crossmember to meet the boxed frame flush on the bottom, and weld it on there, IF I don't forsee a future need to remove it.
 
I believe a chase or conduit would mainly be used for electrical or possible braided fuel line. If using fuel line it would have to be a fairly large dia or multiple pieces depending on your fuel system. I would build and install said chase and then snake the line through after welding was completed.:weld:

As for the hard brake lines you could build the line and install while boxing the frame. Just drill a hole at either end of the frame in the pieces you are installing and have lines accessible so that you can attach to them. You might even be able to tap the box kit instead of drilling if you could find appropriate fittings to make it work.

Just some thoughts I hope it helps.
 
76zimmer said:
Thinking about this more today, and trying to figure how to run 1/2" and 3/16" tubing inside of this chase, after it is in place? I could see running like braided hose through there (which I don't like the idea of welding around the area that it would be in). Straight tubing (of course it will need some bends in it) to get it through the chase is the problem I forsee. How did you do that Paul, or am I thinking wrong here?
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he used it strictly for electrical. that doesn't mean you couldn't run fuel, etc in it too... as i said, his was a pretty straight run with just the 45's at the ends, so snaking was super simple......


you could just put a snake

2FS111.jpg


thru before welding the ends if you where worried about bends, etc. i wouldn't put ANYTHING thru it before welding, other than a metal snake... but honestly, i doubt you'd need it... you could leave it empty, then just run a standard wiring snake thru.. i snake WAY WAY WAY more difficult chases in the boats... i also use the inside metal cable from shift cables as snakes where room is tighter.. heck, you could use mig wire for that...

once you have a snake thru, pulling anything thru is simple... i'd bet you could even pull a 3/8 al fuel line thru it as long as it didn't have any crazy bends (which would be hard to do anyway with thinwall...... or even easier, steelbraided hose...

need snaking tips, holla...
 
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I wouldn't run hard line through the chase. How would you keep it from rubbing on the inside of the chase? It would also be more difficult to fix if you sprung a leak once the truck is assembled.
 
should vs could..... I wouldn't do hardline myself... but i'd have no prob doing steelbraided hose down one...
 
crawdaddy said:
I believe a chase or conduit would mainly be used for electrical or possible braided fuel line. If using fuel line it would have to be a fairly large dia or multiple pieces depending on your fuel system. I would build and install said chase and then snake the line through after welding was completed.:weld:

As for the hard brake lines you could build the line and install while boxing the frame. Just drill a hole at either end of the frame in the pieces you are installing and have lines accessible so that you can attach to them. You might even be able to tap the box kit instead of drilling if you could find appropriate fittings to make it work.

Just some thoughts I hope it helps.
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Some good ideas coming through here.
I've been kicking around the ideas brought up. I would like to run a stainless tubing line for fuel and brake for the main run through the frame. Set it and forget it kinda deal. I was also thinking for the brakeline, of making a union at the frame where the mainline (inside of the box) comes through, and make smaller length lines from there, to the termination points. I will check into some S/S tubing at Alro metals in the next couple days.
Paul is the thinwall conduit easily bendable by hand and a homemade benchtop kind of bending rack? is it easily kinked? I don't have a bender right now (and the way the budget is going, that might be a ways off) and was wondering how to bend it as you describe to fit into the framerail and come out at a 45* towards the inside.
 
well, he bent it up when I wasn't there, so i didn't see him do it... not too mention his shop tool list is insane, including a hydro bender, etc....

I would think manual, cheapo wouldn't be tooooo big a deal being thinwall... just need to be careful so ya don't kink it... i would either look for a cheapie manual pipe bender in the appropriate size and heat the bend area...... one of these fockers...

41G2WW0VABL._SS500_.jpg




or I'm sure you could do some sort of benchtop jig setup easy enough too... might have to, to get a pretty tight radius...
 
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