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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!

jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
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Tell me about it I keep shaking my money and all I get are broken branches..:doah::haha:

Was just asking cause I read your thread on benders and I too am torn between the JD2 model 32 and the pro-tools 105HD. I will probably order one next week will let you know how it turns out.

Motor work can get expensive fast. Looking forward to seeing what you put in.
 
Definitely post up on your bender, the more input the better for all.
I know I've made some choices (the 454, and used 4.56 gears) that havent' turned out like I wanted, but thought I'd post up so hopefully others can get some input on what to expect in the real world.
 
I got the axles under the frame for trial fit, have been working on the crossover steering, and figuring shock mounting, brakeline routing, and a few other odds and ends.


Looks a little different than a few months ago.

HPIM1632.jpg



How does the pinion angles look?
the front springs have a degree-wedge? under them.

HPIM1633.jpg




Rear pinion angle....I know I need to change the caliper mounting too.

HPIM1634.jpg
 
it looks good Dave. once you get the weight of the body and such on the frame ,you will have a better idea.are you gonna keep the stock fuel tank?
 
I'm going to throw a smallblock in it with the drivetrain for mockup, that should sink it an inch or two.

I moved the stock tank forward a couple inches, and upward about 3". I plan on putting a skid under it too.

How's the 14 coming?
 
I've been working on the D60, and popped the cover off it, and found the crosspin bolt is peculiar. Is this bolt typical of most diffs, in that it has a head on the bolt (say 1/2") that threads into the bore, with a smooth end that holds the crosspin in place?
Mine has no head on it, and is recessed into its bore.
I'm thinking it broke off once upon a time. I didn't find the head in the fluid! The spyder gears, and ring gear all look great.
 
76zimmer said:
I've been working on the D60, and popped the cover off it, and found the crosspin bolt is peculiar. Is this bolt typical of most diffs, in that it has a head on the bolt (say 1/2") that threads into the bore, with a smooth end that holds the crosspin in place?
Mine has no head on it, and is recessed into its bore.
I'm thinking it broke off once upon a time. I didn't find the head in the fluid! The spyder gears, and ring gear all look great.
Click to expand...
I don't think the dana 60 comes with a crosspin bolt. Like a dana 44, it has a roll pin to hold the crosspin in place. You should be able to drive it out with a hammer and a drift punch.

It has been a loonng time since I've seen the inside of a Dana 60.
 
ahhhhh...thats good to hear, I'll put my glasses on and have another look at it.


Next question?

Can a lockright installation be done without pulling the diff. case out?

Seems like I had to take the ring gear off my D44 or D27 to get it in there.
 
Dana 60--I don't know.
Dana 44--yes, you have to pull the carrier to remove the ring gear and crosspin.
 
Yes, the D60 should have a roll pin holding the cross shaft in. IIRC, they claim you can install a lock rite with the carrier installed, but I installed mine with the carrier out. It may depend on what gears you are running (deeper gears have thicker ring gears).
 
Thanks guys, I appreciate the input here.
I guess I'll find out when I get the lockright, if I need to pull the carrier out.
I did find that it was a roll pin in there today, so thats cool.

Is there any reason to take out the king pin if it looks smooth?
I hear its a PITA, and mine is on the worktable now, so I don't have good leverage on it.



.
 
Well, here's the latest predicament in my build saga:

Was hoping it was a worn out bushing, but no....not me. I got a stripped out king pin....anybody ever have this happen to them.

What to do about this:

Is there any saving this "C" maybe have it built up with weld filler, and redrilled and tapped? $$$ I'm sure for that.

Cut off the "C" and have a new one put on?

Look for another axle?

My luck is sucking on this project.....


You can still see some threads but certainly not enough to just tap and go with it.

HPIM1639.jpg



Looks like the Kingpin dug into the surrounding crown of the "C" also.

HPIM1635.jpg


HPIM1636.jpg


HPIM1637.jpg



Lower bearing looks abused too.

HPIM1638.jpg



I haven't taken the other side apart yet, but it rotates smooth, and doesn't wabble like this side did.



.
 
Ouch. I think you'll need a new "C". :(

I was worried I'd find something like that in my D60 when I took it apart. Especially after my first 14B had a stripped spindle. At least 14 bolts are a dime a dozen compared to D60s. Of course, I already had my new gears and detroit set up in the 14B before I discovered it was scrap.
 
I don't know if they make a heli-coil that big but couldn't you just weld it in?

Martin
 
BGKYK5.....I know what you mean....kinda what I went through with my 14 gear setup, only to find the pinion had a crack in it.
I have a truck shop close by, I guess I can see if they can do a "C".

82355: I guess if the next option is to weld on a new "C", maybe a new kingpin welded in would be worth a shot.

Any more ideas?
 
Weld the new cone in. If you keep the plastic bushings greased and check them for cracks once a year or so, it will be years before you need to address the problem again.
 
Is this going to be a trail only truck? How close do you think you can get the kingpin aligned with where it is supposed to be? Welding obviously would make it non-serviceable, but you may be able to put off the "C" replacement for a while.
 
The best option would be to replace the c.

But if you could get your welding head in there to "overlay" weld the inside of the hole you could then drill and tap the hole, Although that big of a tap may be hard to find.

Another difficult but possible solution would be to drill/mill the hole larger and then sleeve it with a piece of tubing, notch and weld top and bottom, then tap the sleeve and go.
 
OK guys, I will say this truck will be 90% trail stuff. I can set the old kingpin in place and "feel" where it is comfortable, and looks to be in correct position. I will dis-assemble the other side today, and compare the two, to see if getting the kingpin in position to permanently weld is feasible.

I was a little P.O.'d last night when I found this, but have chilled out some over night, so I just have to deal with it now.

Thanks CK5...you guys have helped a bunch.
 
I agree that a new "c" is the best fix. I don't think they are that expensive or difficult to install if you have the welding skill. Dynatrac or someplace like that should be able to set you up. Just triple check the camber and castor before finish welding.

If you do try welding the kingpin in, use a new kingpin and clean up the female threads the best you can. That way you'll have better thread engagement and the wear surface will last longer before you have to replace the "c". Make sure that kingpin isn't going any where. You don't want it to be able to work back and forth and fatigue the weld or wallow out the hole. Look at the size of the kingpin. There are some serious forces involved and major suckage should it fail. Do what you feel comfotable with.
 
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