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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!

jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
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It has a drive flange on it....there isn't one to fit that? I assumed there would be, as my Vette has flanged 1350's on it. I'm not sure the bolt spread pattern is the same though.

Its like this one right by that orange waterpump:

HPIM1308.jpg
 
Will this flange be the same as the 205 output? Its a HAD.

cid_001a01c1e1147ac830608b85ea43bones.jpg
 
should be but the flange for the 205 has to be milled flat to match the back of the shaft.
also the 205 flange is threaded standard while the shaft is metric threads. so ones gotta be drilled out.
 
I guess I better take that output to my driveline guy and see what we have to do...
Great timing on this, while I got it apart.....good time to get it sorted out.
I know the ultimate is 32 spline front out, but I think I understand that the axles will have problems before that 30 spline front output, is that the case?
 
yeah youll probably be fine. i just swapped over so i could put a 1410 yoke on it.
if you do find a flange that will bolt up to it and accept a 1350 or 1410 joint, i would love to find that. just thought that would save alot of people some trouble.

or an adapter that goes from the 4.25 chevy bolt circle to the rockwell 4.75, that would be bitchin.
 
obijuan said:
yeah youll probably be fine. i just swapped over so i could put a 1410 yoke on it.
if you do find a flange that will bolt up to it and accept a 1350 or 1410 joint, i would love to find that. just thought that would save alot of people some trouble.

or an adapter that goes from the 4.25 chevy bolt circle to the rockwell 4.75, that would be bitchin.
Click to expand...

I got your adapter right here. :rolleyes:

Dremel%20300.jpg
 
obijuan said:
yeah youll probably be fine. i just swapped over so i could put a 1410 yoke on it.
if you do find a flange that will bolt up to it and accept a 1350 or 1410 joint, i would love to find that. just thought that would save alot of people some trouble.

or an adapter that goes from the 4.25 chevy bolt circle to the rockwell 4.75, that would be bitchin.
Click to expand...

This drivetrain guy has come up with some stuff that opened my eyes..:eek1:..we'll see what he has to say tomorrow.
 
76zimmer said:
Please do,

1) How do you dual feed the direct clutches?
2) My case has the 3 tanged metal thrust plate in the case, and a 4 pronged thrust washer in the end of the output, so how does the torrington save the case?
3) What is the difference in HD snap rings for the int. clutches. Isn't that the .090 snap ring?
Click to expand...

1) Dual feeding the direct clutches involves leaving off a seal ring on the center support and/or not installing the center pistion seal in the direct clutch pack. (both have the same effect, I remove both) Then you have to plug a hole in the case next to the center support bolt hole with a 3/8" freeze plug before you install the valve body. I'll get a picture of this at home. You can also plug the center support or the plate, coan might of done that step for you so you should double check. I'll find the pictures tonight and send them to you of what hole to plug and what seal to leave out. It's basically free and greatly increases your high gear torque capacity, which is good for us 4x4s too since we are at WOT in high gear low range in the sand/snow/mud sometimes. The reason is because the factory uses double the area in reverse since it's a lower gear and therefor has higher torque value, and only uses half the area in high gear for a more "comfortable" shift.

2) The torrington bearing and race replaces the two thrust washers for less friction, heat and wear. You use a TH350 front pump shim to shim it. I don't remember the exact source for the torrington bearing but any major trans house will know about it. It should be about $20. Get a .010", .015", and .020" shim, one of them will be perfect for the endplay setting. It eliminates the last major longitudinal loading place that still has a bushing in it (the other 3 places already have bearings as you know).

3) The HD snap ring is thicker to spread the load on the lugs in the case, which is the only real weakpoint of the TH400 case itself. I thought the thick one was .106" or something thick. It holds all the pressure of the intermediate piston when applied. The other two clutch packs are in the steel drums. This one is in the aluminum case. The trans shop should be aware of that too. It also comes in the intermediate power pack from alto.


On a different note, about your front t-case outplut flange. HAD does have a 1350 CV that will bolt to the factory 30 spline flange without modifications now. Before you had to machine the flange or get 32 spline, now they have one that bolts right up. :cool1:
 
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76zimmer said:
This drivetrain guy has come up with some stuff that opened my eyes..:eek1:..we'll see what he has to say tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Dam you Obijuan :D....you had to open that can of worms didn't you.

I'll be glad you did I'm sure, but I just spent another $375 on the fooking 205 today.
new 32 spline front output shaft, new 1410 front yoke, new 1410 rear yoke, and a gasket/seal kit....It should save me a little on the front driveshaft though, we're going to build it with a single joint at each end.
I'm so far over budget its funny: :yikes:

Man, I gotta knock this sh!t off. I gotta pay for it somehow still.
 
folkenheath said:
Here I found this thread that illustrates everything, 1st page has the tailshaft bearing mod, 2nd page has the dual feed pictures. Also, make sure you have the case with the center support ring, I guess I just assumed you did. It shows that too.

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=131600
Click to expand...

Thats a great thread about the T400, I can't find that book on modifying your th400 anywhere. nobody has it.

Coan did tell me to take that 2nd sealing ring off the center support, and I asked them about the valve body thing, and they said its the right one for my application...(RPMV with engine braking)
and I ordered the torrington bearing kit from them too.

thanks for bringing this to light. Now I just have to wait a few more days to work on that thing again....:doah:
 
BGKYK5 said:
The curse of CK5 strikes again...
Click to expand...

I should know better too, I've been through this with other projects, but it just seems like I'm upgrading more (alot) than I planned on.
The old saying of "figure what it will cost and double that, you'll be close". Is starting to kick my ass again.
This is about what I'm over on right now...
Engine..+$1500, trans..+$250, t/c setup..+$600, front axle..+$1200, rear axle..+$500, suspension & steering..+$500.
And I know more is coming.:doah:
I'll just cut into my daughters wedding fund....:haha:
 
76zimmer said:
And I know more is coming.:doah:
Click to expand...

did you buy the matching shift collar and ring?:wink1: sweet k30 is probably the dude to get details on that. im not exactly sure the names but for sure you need the 32 spline shaft, with the matching fork and ring. you should get the front and rear aluminum pieces with the shaft too.
 
obijuan said:
did you buy the matching shift collar and ring?:wink1: sweet k30 is probably the dude to get details on that. im not exactly sure the names but for sure you need the 32 spline shaft, with the matching fork and ring. you should get the front and rear aluminum pieces with the shaft too.
Click to expand...
OH FOCK ME, theres more to it. He said he could get the 32 spline shaft, but nothing about having to change other **** too.:doah:
 
yeah but lucky for you that stuff is everywher and you can probably get it cheap here on the boards. stock 205 parts.
 
76zimmer said:
I thought MobyDick would be appropriate after seeing the Blue hood, and White body of my K5.....
but after watching VH-1's Metal Mania the last few nights, I feel its more appropriate to rename my project IRON MAIDEN.....due to all the iron: 454...203/205....D60....14BFF....thats alot of Iron.....and she's my bitch.
Hopefully it won't be the other way around.
Click to expand...

I think she's getting pis-sed at me.
 
obijuan said:
did you buy the matching shift collar and ring?:wink1: sweet k30 is probably the dude to get details on that. im not exactly sure the names but for sure you need the 32 spline shaft, with the matching fork and ring. you should get the front and rear aluminum pieces with the shaft too.
Click to expand...
What are you talking about? Is this for the NP203 range box?
 
JDNobodi said:
What are you talking about? Is this for the NP203 range box?
Click to expand...


Its for the 205 front output...its stock 30 spline with a drive flange, and I'm going to 32 spline (shaft) to run a 1410 yoke on it. Then I'll have 1410's on both ends of both driveshafts.


As far as the matching shift fork, and slider ring??? I have an extra 80 model 205, maybe that will have the parts in it I need.
Oh goody get to tear apart more sh!t....:rolleyes:
 
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