77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!

[JDNobodi]

I realize I am a little late to the party, but I wanted to try to help out on the radiator information before it was real old news.



Basically true. The first gens were in fact the only ones to get the curved outlet. There were some minor differences along the way (mainly thickness), but the one thing that did stay the same through the years was the height. A short rad was the same height across the board. GM never put a tall rad in a first gen. It will fit, but it is a full custom job.



Yes, 73-80 trucks used that plate type upper mounting for the tall radiators. The '81 and newer four row rads are the same as the early ones (industry number 730), the diesel/later BBC radiator being the same height, but a few inches wider. From 73-80 versus the 81 up, the only difference is the upper mounting setup. Instead of the plate, they used two individual bolt-on upper brackets that held the radiator bushings. Now, some other things changed in that timeframe. From '81 on, HDC on a small block no longer got you a four row rad like it did in earlier years. It now got you a tall three row. The short three row was still used after '81, but it no longer had an upper mounting plate. The upper mounting plate function was now handled by the shroud which had the "plate function" built into it. A tall four row radiator can be a bolt-in deal for a '81 up small block truck. You need the tall four row rad, the upper mounting brackets for a BBC/6.2L and a fan shroud from a 73-80 w/HDC and A/C.



Part of the reason this looks wrong is because the upper shroud is '81up and it is shown on an '80 down core support. This setup is one that I had thought about, but never actually tried. It is hard to tell from the pics, but it looks like the upper mounting brackets are not there. This radiator was not invented until the later '81 up core support, so mounting it in an '80 down would require some engineering especially in the shroud dept to make it look decent.The pinchweld at the top of the core support changed--on the 73-80, it was a very flat-top core support whereas the '81 up had a "ridge" at the back of the top of the core support. I have seen some pretty hack jobs of making the early plate work on the later core supports, but it really isn't too right.

I hope this helps as, generally speaking, most of the rads are the same for a given height, just different mounting early to late.

Last note for future builders: the tall four row radiators are available in aluminum (two 1' rows instead of four) in AC Delco 20978 (or equivalent). I recently purchased one in a industry number 730 box and it had a Delco/Harrison rad in the box with all of the GM markings ground off of it. I think it was under $200.00. Just some food for thought.

And somebody comes along with more knowledge than me.
I have to admit my knowledge of 81 up is very limited.
I just haven't messed with the stuff that much.

 

[76zimmer]

Hey JD, in the long run it helps everyone looking, and thanks for your contributions too!


I picked up a few items the last couple weeks..

A windshield, windstar fans, and a used Swamper for a spare from Jesse (jekquistk5)

and a slightly used BlazinOffroad front winch bumper from Brent (neversatisfied)
he's going racing with his new 2010 Camaro.....

 

[76zimmer]

Time for another cost update....

This round includes the following parts:
Hydroboost setup with PS pump, reservoir, and lines, windshield, windstar fans, spare tire, XJ steering shaft, Ford shock towers, S&W 10 point family cage, miscellaneous fuel line parts, crankcase evacuation/fresh air system, relays, electrical parts, hoses, radiator, coolant outlet, and Blazenoffroad winch bumper.....$1770


Rear axle total to date .................$1461 includes $100 purchase price
Transmission total to date...............$812 includes $150 purchase price
Transfer case doubler to date........$2384 includes $200 205/203 purchase price.
454 Engine total to date...............$5730 includes 500$ short block, 100$ heads.
D60 Build to date.........................$2700 includes 500$ purchase price.

Project cost to date.....................$18709

Rear axle cost does not include the suspension truss and and Wraptor kit from DIY4X.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Awesome!

 

[BGKYK5]

Yikes, it adds up fast!

 

[ryoken]

Time for another cost update....

This round includes the following parts:
Hydroboost setup with PS pump, reservoir, and lines,
XJ steering shaft, Ford shock towers, S&W 10 point family cage, miscellaneous fuel line parts, crankcase evacuation/fresh air system, relays, electrical parts, hoses, radiator, coolant outlet, and Blazenoffroad winch bumper.....$1770


Rear axle total to date .................$1461 includes $100 purchase price
Transmission total to date...............$812 includes $150 purchase price
Transfer case doubler to date........$2384 includes $200 205/203 purchase price.
454 Engine total to date...............$5730 includes 500$ short block, 100$ heads.
D60 Build to date.........................$2700 includes 500$ purchase price.

Project cost to date.....................$18709

Rear axle costs also include the suspension truss and and Wraptor kit from DIY4X.

got me beat by a fair bit...

 

[76zimmer]

got me beat by a fair bit...

Certainly not my goal, but I think many don't realize the "true" dollar cost of doing a big project, and thats one reason for posting it up, and keeping an actual dollars spent total, and keep in mind it also includes the purchase price of the K5, and most every part bought for it is included in that total....I've paid a big price for ignorance, such as the bad R&P in the 14BFF. Yep I got 1400 in that sucker, and correcting myself from above, that doesn't include the DIY4X parts to weld on to it, that will go under suspension group.
Also the 454 was way off my budget, thinking I had a decent $500 short block turned bad also. Looks can be deceiving, and 454's have a narrow margin of clearance according to the Service manual. Thus a fully machined block, new pistons (might as well get some good forged ones while we're at it) and a bunch of good stout parts to put it all together.
BUT, it should be a very stout engine, and not have to worry about anything in it. So many things have cost me due to not schooling myself enough on parts needed (trans & doubler), or having bad parts to start with (14bff gears, 454, D60 rebuild). So I'm hoping others can use this thread for learning by my mistakes. I have no-one to blame but me.
Although I have scored some great deals from others in the Brotherhood too. That has saved me some $$$ in the long run.

Oh and Paul, you haven't built your new engine or trans yet have you?

 

[76zimmer]

For a good time click here:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=266168

See ya in a week, headed to BB10...thanks again to Eric (blazinzuk)

 

[tRustyK5]

have fun and take lots of pics and vid!!

Rene

 

[BGKYK5]

I think many don't realize the "true" dollar cost of doing a big project

I agree. I think it is good to post your costs, so others looking to emulate your build can go in with their eyes wide open.

I'd post the cost of my project so far, but I'm afraid my wife would see it.

I'm about half of your cost, but everything above the suspension is pretty much bone stock on my Blazer (no doubler, stock trans, stock 350TBI).

 

[ryoken]

Certainly not my goal, but I think many don't realize the "true" dollar cost of doing a big project, and thats one reason for posting it up, and keeping an actual dollars spent total, and keep in mind it also includes the purchase price of the K5, and most every part bought for it is included in that total....I've paid a big price for ignorance, such as the bad R&P in the 14BFF. Yep I got 1400 in that sucker, and correcting myself from above, that doesn't include the DIY4X parts to weld on to it, that will go under suspension group.
Also the 454 was way off my budget, thinking I had a decent $500 short block turned bad also. Looks can be deceiving, and 454's have a narrow margin of clearance according to the Service manual. Thus a fully machined block, new pistons (might as well get some good forged ones while we're at it) and a bunch of good stout parts to put it all together.
BUT, it should be a very stout engine, and not have to worry about anything in it. So many things have cost me due to not schooling myself enough on parts needed (trans & doubler), or having bad parts to start with (14bff gears, 454, D60 rebuild). So I'm hoping others can use this thread for learning by my mistakes. I have no-one to blame but me.
Although I have scored some great deals from others in the Brotherhood too. That has saved me some $$$ in the long run.

Oh and Paul, you haven't built your new engine or trans yet have you?

no need to justify, ESPECIALLY to me....


I'm probably about 15, with the 4 g's purchase... but i'll be throwing another 5 g's into it before spring, tranny, exhaust, gears, misc....

round 2 with the stroker motor, pc, etc, who the flock knows.... i'll have every bit of 30 g's at least in by the time I'm "done"......

 

[toner91]

I think most of the people on here that go through and up grade their rigs are in similar situations. I know I am. I'm sure I'll have at least 12 to 20 g's into mine by the time I'm done, and that's not including the cost of my first blazer that rusted into a donor truck. I drove that for about 10 years as a daily driver here in michigan and there wasn't much left on it that I could use except the engine and tranny (both were replaced during that 10 years). And then the amount of time it takes to rebuild these things, I just started on mine this summer and guys from work ask me if it's done yet and I tell them it will probably be at least 2 more years before it's road worthy and they laugh thinking I'm joking. but with my limited money, time and of course experience I'm sure it will be at least that long. I want it done right and a lot of people don't seem to understand just how long and how much money it takes to do something like this.

 

[Greg72]

no need to justify, ESPECIALLY to me....


I'm probably about 15, with the 4 g's purchase... but i'll be throwing another 5 g's into it before spring, tranny, exhaust, gears, misc....

round 2 with the stroker motor, pc, etc, who the flock knows.... i'll have every bit of 30 g's at least in by the time I'm "done"......

You can't put a price on the fun...






Actually, my wife can. She is convinced if I don't knock this "truck stuff" off, I'll cross over into 6-figures before it's all over.

 

[jekquistk5]

You can't put a price on the fun...






Actually, my wife can. She is convinced if I don't knock this "truck stuff" off, I'll cross over into 6-figures before it's all over.

Greg I have seen your garage, you probably do have over six figures there.

 

[76zimmer]

no need to justify, ESPECIALLY to me....


I'm probably about 15, with the 4 g's purchase... but i'll be throwing another 5 g's into it before spring, tranny, exhaust, gears, misc....

round 2 with the stroker motor, pc, etc, who the flock knows.... i'll have every bit of 30 g's at least in by the time I'm "done"......

Naw just poking a little fun at ya, because I know you haven't built your engine yet, and if I know you and your thread it won't be an off the shelf engine.
I think the justification is more for myself...I thought I had an idea of where I wanted this to be going, but just didnt school myself enough on all the parts and pieces to make things the way I want, and avoid parts failure down the road, or did I take advantage of the experience of others for guidance before going into it. I've also got caught up in the "gotta have that" for my build. I think it will be a good solid capable truck. Good at many types of wheeling, and great at one or two.
So after MOAB, I've decided I NEED even more mods...mostly to body and frame to prevent damage on the rocks....oh yes, I WILL BE GOING TO MOAB NEXT YEAR! Nothing like it in Michigan.

 

[76zimmer]

have fun and take lots of pics and vid!!

Rene

I think I'll work on a "My first MOAB" thread.
Stay tuned.

 

[76zimmer]

Moab from a newb POV....

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=275913

Now I also realize, I need rocker sliders to keep the door funcitional after bashing rocks, and it will tie into the cage nicely too. And a few other things noted while checking out the varitable plethora of rigs at BB10. The front and rear will eventually be boat tailed to some degree, but I still want to run an M-37 type fender on them. This will also be carried over to the Trail trailer when that comes about.

Imagine if you will (The Twilight zone?)

The front of the truck with rounded and narrowed fenders and a 1.75 DOM tube framed fender with 12 ga. metal filler panel.

Like these:

with these blended to them:

 

[folkenheath]

As a friend, I respectfully say that would make you lose your mancard. To try and put "jeep" parts on a Chevy. You would be one of the first people to do that, instead of the other way around. (XJ steering shaft understandable)

On a serious note, I think boattailling the front for better clearance and then putting fenders that stick out anyway kind if defeats the purpose doesn't it?

Don't get me wrong, I think your build is awesome Zim, I just disagree with that part, but that is what makes the world awesome.

 

[jms]

Now that you've been to Moab and done some crawling, do you still think the electric fans are a good idea?

 

[76zimmer]

As a friend, I respectfully say that would make you lose your mancard. To try and put "jeep" parts on a Chevy. You would be one of the first people to do that, instead of the other way around. (XJ steering shaft understandable)

On a serious note, I think boattailling the front for better clearance and then putting fenders that stick out anyway kind if defeats the purpose doesn't it?

Don't get me wrong, I think your build is awesome Zim, I just disagree with that part, but that is what makes the world awesome.

Jeep parts Heath....um ok, I guess they are in the same family tree now, but the M37's were a workhorse truck back in their day, like a civvy Powerwagon, just plain ole cool.

My Fenders would be more of a narrower profile than the one pictured.
They would be inboard of the tires, so the tire would be sticking out about 1/2 their width. They would also have that 1.75 DOM for the supporting outer lip to give em strength for whatever they may come in contact with.
Or maybe they could just be unbolted for rockbashing....yeah that's the ticket.

Hey Jim, those electric fans will be a pretty good thing to have on the slow trails like Moab for sure. I think they will provide the cooling, but also push the air through the engine compartment. Something Kert was having some concerns about as his radiator is rear mounted. I'm really hoping that the new Aluminum "high zoot" radiator, as Greg called it, and that setup for fans will be the ticket to cool running.