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Got the 205 put together tonight, put new shift rails in it for the triple stick, and changed the front output, and buttoned it up for keeps.

I think I need a new shift rail connector bar...the piece that connects both shift rails. Mine seems to be a bit sloppy.
 
You won't use that bar with a triple stick set up. Otherwise you wouldn't be able to shift the front and rear axle independently of each other.

Martin
 
I think Heath said the dimensions of what that direct drum should be, isn't even in the detailed aftermarket book. So where he and Coan found it, I don't know, but I gotta get a different one to make it right.

I checked last night, that is correct Zim, the aftermarket book makes no mention of the diameter, it just says to check the race for galling or indentations (evidence of a rolled sprag). It is a darn good book though, WAY better at explaining how everything works and why it does what it does. Also many tricks on how to get by without special tools as well, like checking servo pin lengths, pump gear wear, etc.

It does not say to measure it the direct drum however. I learned the hard way after I broke mine and started researching why. Where I found the information was a combination of online, and calling a professional. Which seems to be the case with a lot of auto trans stuff, modifications especially. I think most trans professionals realize there isn't any money in selling kits and spending hours on the phone teaching people how to do things, so it isn't cost effective, and I don't blame them. So they just don't give out much information and only sell transmissions.

As for your Corvette, at this point, I would just run it, it's in, it's working, and with the small block and lightweight car it might last forever. If 2nd gear goes out, you can still get home with 1st and 3rd. And so once it's in and working, removing it to fix it before it breaks isn't much more work than removing it later. Just don't drive it in manual 2nd if it breaks, it will burn up the int band, and also, go easy on throttle on the 1-3 shift on your way home, 3rd gear doesn't like taking the load of that big jump in gear change. It won't break, it just wears faster.

The rig is coming together nicely, only 1.5 weeks until I get to check it out and mess something up!
 
You won't use that bar with a triple stick set up. Otherwise you wouldn't be able to shift the front and rear axle independently of each other.

Martin

Wow finally some good news! Thanks Martin

I checked last night, that is correct Zim, the aftermarket book makes no mention of the diameter, it just says to check the race for galling or indentations (evidence of a rolled sprag). It is a darn good book though, WAY better at explaining how everything works and why it does what it does. Also many tricks on how to get by without special tools as well, like checking servo pin lengths, pump gear wear, etc.

It does not say to measure it the direct drum however. I learned the hard way after I broke mine and started researching why. Where I found the information was a combination of online, and calling a professional. Which seems to be the case with a lot of auto trans stuff, modifications especially. I think most trans professionals realize there isn't any money in selling kits and spending hours on the phone teaching people how to do things, so it isn't cost effective, and I don't blame them. So they just don't give out much information and only sell transmissions.

As for your Corvette, at this point, I would just run it, it's in, it's working, and with the small block and lightweight car it might last forever. If 2nd gear goes out, you can still get home with 1st and 3rd. And so once it's in and working, removing it to fix it before it breaks isn't much more work than removing it later. Just don't drive it in manual 2nd if it breaks, it will burn up the int band, and also, go easy on throttle on the 1-3 shift on your way home, 3rd gear doesn't like taking the load of that big jump in gear change. It won't break, it just wears faster.

The rig is coming together nicely, only 1.5 weeks until I get to check it out and mess something up!

Still waiting to hear from Coan this AM, I may have to make a trip down there (160 mi.) to make sure I can get it before Sat. we'll see.
I agree with the thought process behind auto builders, there is a lot of voodoo in them cases, and understanding what goes on would sure help with the rebuild/modification process. GM manuals are generally pretty good, but don't go into detail on things like clutch pack clearances, that really can make a huge difference in the operation and longevity of the unit. I guess experience and trial/error on mods is what makes a good trans guy worth the money it costs for a professional built unit.
My head guy uses Coan trans in his dragster, and works with Jason Coan alot at the track, so he's picked their brains alot for info. They've been pretty helpful to me, but I can tell they don't let out everything they know about these things either....that would be suicidal I guess.
The Vette has 3.90's in it now, so losing 2nd would be like having a PG in it..:D


EDIT:

Just heard from David Coan @ Coan racing...the 4L80 drum and taller race..110$, shipping this afternoon, should be here by Friday at the latest. This should be a matter of putting all my pieces from the T400 direct drum into this new one, slapping it back together and getting this sucker in the frame again.
 
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Just heard from David Coan @ Coan racing...the 4L80 drum and taller race..110$, shipping this afternoon, should be here by Friday at the latest. This should be a matter of putting all my pieces from the T400 direct drum into this new one, slapping it back together and getting this sucker in the frame again.

Awesome, that's a good price too! Hopefully that one measures 3.159 or over! Make sure you have some extra steels of both thickness so you can set the clearance that same day.
 
Yeah, he is sending along an extra steel and fiber because this drum takes 6 instead of 5. Also sending along a matching piston for it, and a spiroloc retainer for the sprag plate. I need to just send him back my piston out of the T400 drum. Good guy to deal with that Dave Coan.


Today I managed to get stuff done despite a friggin' headache all day....I can't imagine what you go through Eric.

Got the 205 mated back up to the doubler adapter, and sorted out the triple stick setup. I had to reconfigure a brace because it was too close to my exhaust mounting, but other than that its a go. And I've seen better instructions in a Chinawanese swingset than what ORD sends with these triple sticks. :D

Ironmaiden234.jpg




Then I decided I would finish off the trans in the frame. I figured this would save me some time (2 hours as it turned out) as I could get that mounted up, and some other accessories in that needed to go on before body drop.

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Ironmaiden237.jpg
 
Today I managed to get stuff done despite a friggin' headache all day....I can't imagine what you go through Eric.

You get used to them, really you do, it becomes your new normal. Its just kind of a sucky normal :doah:

Everything is looking awesome Dave. Pretty much on schedule really.

You think the body will be on before I get there or are we going to be doing that on Wed?
 
my goal is to have it on Monday Eric....we'll see how the trans stuff goes. I may have to compromise my plans for the underbody at this time.
 
Yeah, he is sending along an extra steel and fiber because this drum takes 6 instead of 5. Also sending along a matching piston for it, and a spiroloc retainer for the sprag plate. I need to just send him back my piston out of the T400 drum. Good guy to deal with that Dave Coan.


Then I decided I would finish off the trans in the frame. I figured this would save me some time (2 hours as it turned out) as I could get that mounted up, and some other accessories in that needed to go on before body drop.

Good deal Dave, glad you are getting hte parts you need, now you can rest easy knowing you can pound the throttle and the TH400 won't be going south on you.

On a side note, have you ever tried to put a direct drum in with the trans horizontal? I haven't, I just feel like it would be hard to do...? There is a lot of stuff to line up for that to slide all the way on.

Also, you wrapped the whole midpipe for the exhaust? I think wrap does hold the heat it, and maybe with it on a turbo car or race car, but on a street vehicle I just feel like they trap moisture and cause rust and premature failure.

Everything is look great by the way, impressive progress!
 
Heath, I've had that drum in and out a couple times now with it horizontal, not quite as easy as verticle but still doable, just have to watch the band position, and rotate to engage the clutches. (Now I hope that don't bite me, and give me problems)
We use wrap similar to that at work, and they use it on painted carbon steel steam pipes. The secret to longevity of the piping, even if its stainless, is to seal the metal to give it a protective coating against moisture. This is a heat barrier titanium wrap, that I'm hoping will work to reduce the heat on the floor.
At any rate, I will have to take the pipes off to check them in a couple years to see how they are holding up.
 
Heath, I've had that drum in and out a couple times now with it horizontal, not quite as easy as verticle but still doable, just have to watch the band position, and rotate to engage the clutches. (Now I hope that don't bite me, and give me problems)
We use wrap similar to that at work, and they use it on painted carbon steel steam pipes. The secret to longevity of the piping, even if its stainless, is to seal the metal to give it a protective coating against moisture. This is a heat barrier titanium wrap, that I'm hoping will work to reduce the heat on the floor.
At any rate, I will have to take the pipes off to check them in a couple years to see how they are holding up.


your BB will sound better with open headers:D:D
 
your BB will sound better with open headers:D:D


Hell yeah Jess, I'm with ya there bud.

I managed to sneak out of going to work today. We're slow so that helps to take an extra day off, but gotta work the next 4 so today was a good one to have. 50 and mostly sunny out.

So I decided to work on the body some, prepped the firewall for a quicky rattle can blast...thats about all I'll get done before putting it on the frame....a big compromise to skip blasting and painting the underside, but the weather is supposed to turn a little colder, and possible snow again, so chances of painting are slim to none. That will have to be a future phase in body work.


I cleaned all the junk out of the truck, and from underneath of it. Took the doors off, windshield out, and need to shell the inside yet.

Ironmaiden241.jpg


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Then when it started getting cold in the garage, I went back to the shop to put my new 4L80 drum in the T400. The extra friction, and a new set of steels, a new outer race, a new piston, the drum and a spiroloc all for 152 shipped. I need to send back my T400 piston, as it was an exchange. Dave Coan set me up right. The clutch pack measured at .052 clearance, and the drum sprag diameter measured at 3.160.

So it went together good even with the trans horizontally in the frame (thank you very much) Then I got the engine bolted in, but need to do alot of little things yet...nuts bolts on a few items, check it all over to make sure its all tightened up. A lot of progress today, and now my back is killing me, so a good nights rest is needed!

A great feeling to have the whole drivetrain in now.

Ironmaiden239.jpg


Ironmaiden240.jpg
 
Thansk guys. It was nice to walk out of the shop seeing the drivetrain in the frame.

I'm thinking (keeping with the Iron Maiden theme here) that the trooper fits the bill.
Kick ass tune right there.
 
The Trooper is a great pic, and now I got it stuck in my head... still one of my favorite Maiden songs.

The blazer body you got looks like it`s in good shape, not to rusty.
And your drivetrain is like art.:waytogo: Good job Zim!
 
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