77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!

[76zimmer]

I'd like to think that would be a great option Paul, but the bar is right where the side window's are. Right at the top of the window frame and it looks like the bar would hit the glass. I need to maybe try to lower the top onto the body and see what things look like then....
Thinking I could maybe cut out the upper horizontal bar between the two sidebars, then cut the majority of the sidebar loose from the body mounting plate (at the bed) and remove the side brace that ties the bar to the side of the box, then try to pull the two bars together with a comealong the 3" or so necessary to fit inside the shell.
Tack it like that then try the shell on and continue the rear bars fabbing from there.

Sounds like my best option for still running a top.

 

[tRustyK5]

Even though it's a step backwards from all that progress, I think it's the right thing to do. I'd love to see a pic of how the rear bars attached to the B-hoop. Normally if it's a straight alignment with the halo bars it'll clear the top nicely.

I was paranoid when I did my old cage and cut and fit everything with the hardtop on...

Rene

 

[Deuling]

That all seems like a heck of alot of trouble. Cant you just do something like this??

You could just cut the existing bar and angle it over couldnt you??

 

[76zimmer]

that side bar is one piece from the B pillar to the rear part of the bed. It extends beyond the inner part of the top for about 3' down the sides.

 

[76zimmer]

Even though it's a step backwards from all that progress, I think it's the right thing to do. I'd love to see a pic of how the rear bars attached to the B-hoop. Normally if it's a straight alignment with the halo bars it'll clear the top nicely.

I was paranoid when I did my old cage and cut and fit everything with the hardtop on...

Rene

This is about the best pic of it I got at the moment:

look down the side towards the B pillar, and it acutally fits real good up front, it just comes down the side at too much of an outward angle to get the top down over it.

 

[ryoken]

ok, let me see if I've got this straight... it's gonna hit all the way back where the bend is that starts to angle down to the c-pillar?

if so, if you've got 2 4'er's leftover, and are willing to run a couple slugs, I think it's pretty easily fixed.... sawzall right above your c-pillar bracket, run a slug/roset weld, run more bend on that bend, then bend at the top, further forward, and slug/splice it a bit forward of the offending bend... more by the back seats... increasing that back angle.. moving the offending bend forward..

yes, maybe?

 

[tRustyK5]

The shot of it being flexed shows the rear bar coming straight back off the B-hoop, which means you should be OK where the hardtop bolts up. It think the rear bars just need to be pulled in at the rear. I'm thinking nipping the weld out of the plate at the rear, remove the rear cross bar and pull both rear bars inward would get it where it needs to be. You could take a partial slice out of the C-downbar at bedside height to get a bit of a bend there, and then re-weld it later too...

Rene

 

[cybrfire]

Yellow circle: Is that what I think it is? Got any more pics for the website?

Red circle: I agree with Ryoken. Cut it just above the bracket. You could also do it as a rear hoop and go side to side. Then make adjustments to the bars that go back to the rear hoop.

Blue circle: I got a creeper just like that!!

 

[nvrenuf]

This pic really looks like the top should fit. As stated you might have to lower it down over the cage but it looks like there's room.

 

[shady]

I like adams idea. cut a small wedge on the inside where kert circled in red. take the rear crossbar out and ratchet it in like you were saying. then weld it all back up. As for the pics for every one else. the angle of the truck hides the fact that the rear bars flare out about 3-4" right after the B hoop. Hey dave have you checked the width at the front to see if that clears?

 

[76zimmer]

ok, let me see if I've got this straight... it's gonna hit all the way back where the bend is that starts to angle down to the c-pillar? YES

if so, if you've got 2 4'er's leftover, and are willing to run a couple slugs, I think it's pretty easily fixed.... sawzall right above your c-pillar bracket, run a slug/roset weld, run more bend on that bend, then bend at the top, further forward, and slug/splice it a bit forward of the offending bend... more by the back seats... increasing that back angle.. moving the offending bend forward..

yes, maybe?

YES, maybe... Let me see if I follow your ideas..First I have no more 1.75, only 1.5, I could get some though given some time. I think the shape of those bars are ok, just too wide at maybe 2' from the B pillar toward the rear of the top. It should clear the slope of the rear of the top, Its just too wide to clear the inside width of the top. Can you follow that?


A little more description of the offending tube.
If you start at the B pillar, this tube is only as wide as the B hoop...

At that point there is no problem with clearance....the weld point of the front halo to the B pillar is also where this rear bar is welded in. The bar then curves outward past the B pillar as it starts toward the rear, say maybe 4" or so, but should still clear the inside of the hardtop at that point. As it makes its way toward the rear it ends up in this position, gaining in width between the sidebars as it moves toward the rear:

Which pretty much goes straight up, instead of curving in like the profile of the hardtop sides, therefore making contact with the inside of the hardtop at almost the top of the side window glass.

Keep in mind right now these are just measurements taken off the top out in the yard, and the truck in the shop. I haven't tried putting the top on yet, and would need some help to do it too.

The shot of it being flexed shows the rear bar coming straight back off the B-hoop (See above explanation of the bar profile), which means you should be OK where the hardtop bolts up. It think the rear bars just need to be pulled in at the rear. I'm thinking nipping the weld out of the plate at the rear, remove the rear cross bar and pull both rear bars inward would get it where it needs to be. You could take a partial slice out of the C-downbar at bedside height to get a bit of a bend there, and then re-weld it later too... This would be ok to do, and not hurt the integrity of the bar?

Rene

View attachment 116009

Yellow circle: Is that what I think it is? Yes, and just tacked in at this point. Got any more pics for the website? I will plan on putting those in 5 places on each side of the cage....I will get you some pics of them in place, thanks again Kert, those tube gussets are sweet!

Red circle: I agree with Ryoken. Cut it just above the bracket. You could also do it as a rear hoop and go side to side. Then make adjustments to the bars that go back to the rear hoop. I like this idea alot too, and will check that out more tomorrow.

Blue circle: I got a creeper just like that!!

You da man

I like adams idea. cut a small wedge on the inside where kert circled in red. take the rear crossbar out and ratchet it in like you were saying. then weld it all back up. As for the pics for every one else. the angle of the truck hides the fact that the rear bars flare out about 3-4" right after the B hoop. Hey dave have you checked the width at the front to see if that clears?

Yep, and I think it will by taking a measurement, but really before I do anything I think I need to get that hardtop at least above the truck to better measure and compare

 

[76zimmer]

Heres a better pic of the sidebar profile....it comes off the B pillar and flares out a few inches then shoot towards the back at an outward angle...61.5" wide at 17" up off the bedsides.

 

[ryoken]

ratchet strap that biatch and add a cross bar in the upper back to keep em together..

 

[76zimmer]

I have a bar in there right now, that would need to be cut out first, but I'm thinking the easiest, cheapest, quickest way out is to do just that. Cut the rear spredder bar out, cut a pie slice out of the c pillar bar just above the body brace enough to tilt it in a couple inches at the top, and put a shorter spredder bar back in. Then continue on with the rest of the cage construction after putting the top on it.

 

[ryoken]

I wouldn't even notch it.. put the strap up top, heat those lower C-pillar bends with a torch and ratchet strap/bend the bitch in..

 

[Deuling]

Yep, and I think it will by taking a measurement, but really before I do anything I think I need to get that hardtop at least above the truck to better measure and compare

Does this mean you are actually taking advice from me?? DUDE!!!! lol

 

[76zimmer]

I wouldn't even notch it.. put the strap up top, heat those lower C-pillar bends with a torch and ratchet strap/bend the bitch in..

Cool, break out the Oxy/Acetylene

Does this mean you are actually taking advice from me?? DUDE!!!! lol

Right now its looking like things are pointing in that direction Adam....thanks for your input!

 

[Deuling]

Cool, break out the Oxy/Acetylene


Right now its looking like things are pointing in that direction Adam....thanks for your input!

Aww yeah
Gotta love paint lol.

 

[76zimmer]

I got a few more pics of it tonight:

 

[MTBLAZER89]

Now that you post those pics I think there are a few ways you could fix that.

Cut it where it flares out and shorten that section so it doesnt flare out so much.

As mentioned above. Remove the cross bar and just pull it together with maybe some heat.

You could remove that flare out section all together and run the tube straight back in a line with the forward portion.