I never thought about mounting them backwards, that is probably the way to go vs hacking the bottom off the back side
Edit: Wow I got confused there for a second![]()

My D60 spring plate studs arrived yesterday, so I got those put in...
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Maybe I missed it, but where'd you get those studs?
yup, I need D60 studs too... i'd actually like to buy 2 for just springs, and 2 for "with a zero rate" too.....
so your needing two different lengths, or length and diameter?
Here is the McMasterCarr page for the studs:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-rods/=i5y2s6

Drilled a hole if I remember 1" offset to move the axle forward.Judging by the offset center pin, I'd say he already has zero-rates. Either that or drilled a new hole in the spring perch.![]()
yeah, i think your right, if ya look lower left, the lowest leaf does look spaced...
think my TC springpack is 2.5.. gotta figure 1", 1.25 engagement in the 60.. another 3/8 to 1/2 for the plates..
If you want the diff forward without the EZ inch, or Zero rate...re-drill the perches and spring plates. I moved my D60 forward 1.25" that way and ran 39.5's with 5" of lift. Never had any issues with rubbing the firewall like that.
Rene
I'm sure it would be Matt...I did it mostly for convenience, not sure if the local steel supply would have it or not, but thats a 15mi drive each way, I got the studs w/ a bunch of flangenuts for the beadlocks all together for 34 shipped, and I can shop at work!When I made d60 spring studs I just went to local machine shop and got a little grade 8 all-thread and cut them to size myself. Might be cheaper than shipping from McCarr.

Jeez, nothin' like the ultimate hardware store right in your general vicinity right?well, considering mcbible is in joysey, i get stuff in like 14 hrs from them....![]()