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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!

jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
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Ok I don't have time to read this whole thread so what exact engine is in this, heads, compression, etc? I would never attempt to read any plug that you didn't do a plug chop on. You will get at best an avg of how the engine is but that is more or less worthless.
 
76zimmer said:
i was mostly looking at the electrode where it changes color toward the base....I will confirm my timing when I get the new plugs in it. I can't remember where it is static or mechanical advance??? I'm thinking 12 initial and 34 total brought in slowly and in by 3000
Click to expand...
I am guessing that is way too little total.
 
John, the engine specs are:


454 +.030
Forged pistons SRP 23cc dome
Heads are 781's...119cc after a .010 cut and bowl work
stock reworked 6.135 rods w/ ARP's
piston is .005 in the hole
Static CR is 9.8; dynamic is 8.2
1.72 rockers CC Ultra pro magnum roller
Comp Cams Xtreme energy solid flat tappet, 230/236 @ .050; .553/.568; LSA 110; IC 106; oriface face lifters
EZ-EFI (1st edition) on a RPM airgap



Today I got the new plugs in it and fired up, checked the timing and have 14* at idle (850rpm) and total of 34 @ 3000+
AF ratios were set at 12.8 idle, 14.0 cruise, and 12.5 WOT
I brought the idle down to 12.0, anything less and it eventually dies out.
 
Last edited:
76zimmer said:
John, the engine specs are:


454 +.030
Forged pistons SRP 23cc dome
Heads are 781's...119cc after a .010 cut and bowl work
stock reworked 6.135 rods w/ ARP's
piston is .005 in the hole
Static CR is 9.8; dynamic is 8.2
1.72 rockers CC magnum roller
Comp Cams Xtreme energy solid flat tappet, 230/236 @ .050; .553/.568; LSA 110; IC 106; oriface face lifters
EZ-EFI (1st edition) on a RPM airgap



Today I got the new plugs in it and fired up, checked the timing and have 14* at idle (850rpm) and total of 34 @ 3000+
AF ratios were set at 12.8 idle, 14.0 cruise, and 12.5 WOT
I brought the idle down to 12.0, anything less and it eventually dies out.
Click to expand...
So the plugs where a bit rich so you added more fuel to idle?
 
Yeah thought about that last night....went the wrong way!
another new tune coming today!
 
I would make the total much closer to 38-40. Those open chamber and domes are lazier than that. You are giving up lots of power there. Mine even with iron heads was locked at 40.

Idle should be about 12.5-13.5 or just shoot for highest vac if you can tune in real time.
Cruise 14.5-15.5
Wot 12.7-12.5

We could talk about the fast but you won't like it.
 
Thanks John
I think next time I would get a system that would control timing and go with port injection too!

So now I'm at 16 initial and 36 total
Idle is 13.0
Cruise is 14.5
WOT is 12.8

IAC is about 35
 
And? Does it run any different? I would suggest the MSD system or a custom using a mega squirt. The MSD system doesn't seem to be as bad at loosing horsepower vs a proper sized carb.
 
76zimmer said:
Thanks John
I think next time I would get a system that would control timing and go with port injection too!

So now I'm at 16 initial and 36 total
Idle is 13.0
Cruise is 14.5
WOT is 12.8

IAC is about 35
Click to expand...
IAC is way too much. Turn up the idle screw on the side of the throttle body till you get to 20. Then shut it down and do a TPS sensor relearn or whatever it's called. Start it back up and it should idle and return to idle smoothly.

Anyway, how's it respond now with the increased timing and AFRs?
 
80' 427 said:
And? Does it run any different? I would suggest the MSD system or a custom using a mega squirt. The MSD system doesn't seem to be as bad at loosing horsepower vs a proper sized carb.
Click to expand...

I would definitely like to have laptop timing control....that may happen for the Vette sometime in the future.


Chevy305 said:
IAC is way too much. Turn up the idle screw on the side of the throttle body till you get to 20. Then shut it down and do a TPS sensor relearn or whatever it's called. Start it back up and it should idle and return to idle smoothly.

Anyway, how's it respond now with the increased timing and AFRs?
Click to expand...

I don't feel any seat of the pants difference, but then it weighs 6500lbs too. Throttle response has always been excellent, that hasn't changed at all. When I stab the throttle (in park or neutral) it revs, then comes down slowly to the idle (800), before it would drop right to the idle speed almost immediately....not a big deal. I'll do the idle screw adjustment setting...right now it is on the top end of the "window" for idle setting. I can drop the idle with the screw and redo the IAC procedure. I'll also get a reading of the vacuum while I'm going through the real time readings.
 
ended up at idle 800rpm
A/F ratios of 13.0 idle, 14.5 cruise, and 12.8 WOT.
Throttle response is crisp, and idles down quickly to 800, no stalling now cold or hot.
IAC is down to 25
 
I think you could lean out the cruise to 14.7-15 and would never know the difference except in mpg and possibly cylinder wall wear. Remember vac advance+mech and intial should be in the low 50s.
 
80' 427 said:
I think you could lean out the cruise to 14.7-15 and would never know the difference except in mpg and possibly cylinder wall wear. Remember vac advance+mech and intial should be in the low 50s.
Click to expand...
I understand your thinking but the Maden isn't about mpgs it's about smiles per gallon. Funneranhell right?
 
I understand that but everyone not filling as often. Besides the engine actually runs hotter on that side of stoch.
 
Reliability and longevity of engine life are primary goals so does running cruise a bit more lean increase cylinder wear?
I understand it could run a bit hotter but my cooling system is working great.....big Northern aluminum rad and wind star fans get it handled!
I have no vac on the dist right now and will prob put in a MSD pro billet unit I already have and it has no vac either.
The on road miles are pretty limited in this truck so mpg isn't a concern although when running the dunes last week I went through about 17-18 gal of fuel in one day, but I usually am into the throttle pretty good when I drive it.....funnernhell
 
list of items to complete for the overland UP adventure Aug 17-22:


Assess spare parts list:
Fluids for all
Distributor parts
Serp belt
1410 U-joint
order extra PS hose
Spare fuel pump

Tire pressure gauge/spare valve stem cores/core removal tool
Check front wheel bearings/hubs/differential lube
Check all suspension fasteners
Grease all suspension/steering
Check/secure all wiring routing
Check/secure all hose routing
Repair PS line leak
Check all fluids
Distributor upgrade
Fix Wipers
Fix defroster
Remove rear seats/plate
Istall Doors/Mirrors
Install rear cap/glass/rear opening
Full size cover?
Spare tire mounting….check lugnut compatibility
Hi-lift mounting
Rear compartment mounting for equipment
Exhaust routing
Weatherproof truck
Sleeping quarters
Maps/Gazetteer
Flashlights
Offroading gear
Camping gear

Ramps for trailer
Spare tire mounting/lock for trailer
Change trans oil in 99-K2500, check engine oil/fluids
 
76zimmer said:
Reliability and longevity of engine life are primary goals so does running cruise a bit more lean increase cylinder wear?
I understand it could run a bit hotter but my cooling system is working great.....big Northern aluminum rad and wind star fans get it handled!
I have no vac on the dist right now and will prob put in a MSD pro billet unit I already have and it has no vac either.
The on road miles are pretty limited in this truck so mpg isn't a concern although when running the dunes last week I went through about 17-18 gal of fuel in one day, but I usually am into the throttle pretty good when I drive it.....funnernhell
Click to expand...

But how many laps around the dunes did it take for you to burn them 18 gallons? When your in the dunes its all about smiles per gallon:grin:
 
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