77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!

[76zimmer]

for comparison you can check out these Edelbrock RPM oval port heads, scroll to the bottom, I think you'll be happy...

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/cylheads/chevy/bb_perf_rpm.shtml

Nice Heath, thanks for posting this....I knew the 781's were one of the couple Large oval ports to get, by what the CK5 guys have said, but that really makes em look good.

AJ, I'm thinking it may need premium, but we'll see. I just said that I wanted pump gas, and not have to worry about mixing or running race gas in this engine. So looks good so far.


I also got the 205 front output 32 spline shaft today finally.
The diameter of the rear bearing is different between the 85' syncro model (round pattern on the trans adapter surface), and the 80' non syncro unit (figure 8 pattern on the trans adapter surface). This new 32 spline shaft takes the larger bearing housing (non syncro type, figure 8 style) as others have mentioned before.

Here is a few differences I've noticed between the two front output-rear covers, as visible from the rear of the t/c on the outside:

Syncro type.................................... Non syncro type
Rear cover has oil passage to bearing... No oil passage to bearing
Rear cover bearing housing 2" dia......... Bearing housing 2-1/2" dia.
Rear cover all cast aluminum............... Cast housing w/steel brg plug

So tomorrow I'll be switching the front output shaft parts from the older, spare 205 I have, to the newer shaft, and try to get this thing put together finally. I'll post up some pics tomorrow for a better reference of the covers.
Shees' all this just for 2 more splines???

Well yeah, now I can run 1410 yokes, rear output, and front too!
Those are coming from Northwest Fab. (with U-bolts)

 

[76zimmer]

A few more notes about the syncro type 205:

the piece on the right is the syncro 205 type front output shaft syncronizer fork, the one on left is non syncro type, and is used for both front and rear output forks.

This is a pic of the front output shaft rear covers.
On the right is the non syncro type, the left is the syncro type (note the yellow raised portion...it is the oil feed to the bearing).

Well, I'm really glad I had the figure 8 pattern nonsyncro type 205 as an extra....
I've had to rob the following to make this 32 spline shaft work....The front output gears, shifter fork, rear cover, and rear cover bearing.
I'm still not done with it, as I worked on other stuff today also:
I got the poly spring bushings put in the fronts, and hung them to the frame, and put the 60 back in place.

Nice to have a roller again.

 

[76zimmer]

I finished the 205 build today, and got the doubler put together, what a hunk of heavy...

I still have to disassemble to put in a spacer between the rows of needle bearings on the front output, that is why all the bolts aren't in, and the gaskets aren't on in a few places. Its good enough to put in the frame for mockup now.

 

[obijuan]

its beautiful!

 

[76zimmer]

I'm so glad to get these fokers together, even though I do have to change a few things, at least I know it all works together now....


I still need to figure out the shifters from ORD...I got the twin stick, anybody got a pic of them mounted?

 

[76zimmer]

Spent the best part of the day, cleaning up after myself and the remnants of transfer case parts. I cleaned the shop up in prep for engine assembly.

I did get these out of the way though, found a good spot to store them for now:

Is the angle of tilt supposed to be about 3* on the drivetrain?
I'm setting at about 8* right now, but its just a few temp supports holding it in there. I will need to get the engine in, and then figure the t/c mounting cage.


.

 

[crawdaddy]

The stock location has the tranny pan level and the motor tilted 4* back

You don't have to run it that way. The motor could sit level but you may need to modify your tranny pan so that the pan is close to level.

 

[76zimmer]

The stock location has the tranny pan level and the motor tilted 4* back

You don't have to run it that way. The motor could sit level but you may need to modify your tranny pan so that the pan is close to level.

Thanks, I figured the trans would have to be pretty close to level, but didn't know where that left the engine angle. I'm tilted up at the front pretty heavy right now, as it sits in the pic. I'll get the engine in before I decide what to make for crossmembers. I'm glad I'm going with 1410's looking at the angle of the shafts....but then there isn't much weight in the frame right now either.

 

[folkenheath]

Everything looks great Dave, only one problem. The colors are backwards. The aluminum trans case is black and the iron t-case parts are silver!!

 

[76zimmer]

Yeah, I usually go black on the trans for heat dissipation, might only be a small amount but it'll help. I gotta mix it up a little bit with the t/c's Had some silver laying around, so I shot em with that. I got a cool color combo for the engine coming up...all aluminum with chevy orange oil pan, and valve covers....I like the look.

If you can imagine the block in aluminum too:

And then a cast iron grey look to the frame will be coming forth too.



.

 

[82355]

All that time and money into the transmission and doubler, and you didn't go triple stick???

Martin

 

[76zimmer]

I haven't felt I've needed one at this point, sure I may change my mind later in life, but as with any project, its always something else you would have wished you did different. Right now, its not a biggie for me. How much mud and sand do you need to front dig in?

 

[76zimmer]

getting started with engine assembly today...nekkid block:

VIN:

Block parts:

 

[Yo]

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

Engine porn

You stamp in the pedigree yourself?

 

[Smokinthehippies]

wow. that is healthy goodness right there.

 

[rdn2blazer]

I like this right here

 

[76zimmer]

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

Engine porn

You stamp in the pedigree yourself?

Yeah, I did

.... a little fun note:

My Corvette didn't have the original engine when I bought it, and all the anal restorers keep looking at the engine pad and asking me if its original. NOPE, and a dis-appointed look is given to me.
So when I rebuilt the engine, it was decked, and I stamped "f*ck off" on the engine pad.
You should see the look they give me then....like I just slapped their girlfriend or something.
Either that or they just look away like they didn't really notice it.

 

[76zimmer]

I like this right here

Me too. I had a 427 I painted like that one time, and have really liked the look ever since. Block, heads, and intake all aluminum, with Chevy orange pan, and valve covers. I saw a Chevrolet pic of a 427 ZL1 like that about a hundred years ago somewhere.

 

[76zimmer]

I did get to check the mains for clearance today before coming to work:

checking in it at .002-.0025 for all the mains. Nice. I'm using studs instead of bolts, does anyone know if that changes the torque requirement?




.and a good reason to clean all your tools thoroughly before doing engine work:

This was after cleaning 5 sockets, and a speed wrench, done with brake cleaner and a detail bristle brush, then run a clean cloth through them, kinda like cleaning a gun barrel.
Its something I always do before engine assembly.

 

[rdn2blazer]

I did get to check the mains for clearance today before coming to work:

checking in it at .002-.0025 for all the mains. Nice. I'm using studs instead of bolts, does anyone know if that changes the torque requirement?




.and a good reason to clean all your tools thoroughly before doing engine work:

This was after cleaning 5 sockets, and a speed wrench, done with brake cleaner and a detail bristle brush, then run a clean cloth through them, kinda like cleaning a gun barrel.
Its something I always do before engine assembly.

Good attention to detail. Most don't think about tool cleaning I bet. At work our tools have to be spotless clean and wiped down with alcohol before we work on anything with tools.