CK5
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'78 K10 Build

It's has a pin with a cotter pin that holds it on. I think it's also bolted to the pivot point. Notice in the pic that the thing you would be relocating is shaped different also. I would try to get one that was already the right one to start with. Let me check out what I have and it may be what you need.

Sweet let me know!
 
Mark1968, what are your pedals out of? Did you have any problems getting the pedals to fit or the pedal rod?

I had to drill out my pedal rod to fit onto the hydro pedals... So now I think I may have screwed myself and might not be able to use my old pedal...


No idea what they came out of. There is a local guy here who collects and parts trucks. I told him what I wanted, what year the truck was and what parts I had. He did ask if I had hydro boost though. I do not.

I didn't have any issues fitting them in, but my cab was gutted. No seat steering column or dash.

I don't see why the pedals would not swap. Cut the pad down to the size of the manual set and you should be good to go.
 
I didn't quite follow, so are you saying that your new peddle assembly did come from a truck with hydro boost? If so, I'm curious to see if swapping to a correct peddle or re drilling will solve your issue. And if it does, your welcome!
 
I didn't quite follow, so are you saying that your new peddle assembly did come from a truck with hydro boost? If so, I'm curious to see if swapping to a correct peddle or re drilling will solve your issue. And if it does, your welcome!

Correct.
 
I drove it to the gas station last night. It will stop OK if you pump them up. If I had to stop in an emergency situation, it would be ugly though.
 
Crazy. I'll be very curious then to see what happens.


And is it still having the drive ability issue?

If I end up putting my old pedal on, I will have to find a plastic bushing or something cause I drilled out my brake booster pushrod to fit on the hydro brake pedal.

Re-drilling will be a PITA also cause the stud that the pushrod mounts to doesn't look like it just unbolts.

:doah:

Drivability has gotten a little better since I put some fuel in it. I feel like it's starving for fuel at a constant throttle or full throttle. I am thinking it's a fuel pressure issue. The kid I bought the donor truck from said it would run crappy if the truck got low on fuel. The tank was nearly empty and it looked real clean inside it. I need to get a fuel pressure fitting to check it out.
 
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After I installed my FP gauge permanently its a nice piece of mind. Mines mounted on the cowl by the wipers, but for awhile it was mounted under the hood in an easy to read spot. I think I have 30$ in mine.
 
The truck is running pretty good now. Since the last post I changed the fuel filter which had a bunch of crap in it, had the exhaust welded up, and a few other little things. I know TBI's are known to be pretty gutless, but I am honestly kind of impressed with the power of this thing. A lot better than I was expecting.

Also loving the hydraulic clutch. I could just about put anyone in this thing and let them go its so easy to drive now. :D Still need to do something about the fuel gauge cause it is reading waaaayyyy past full.

Also really happy with the serp belt setup. The power steering works soooo much better now and doesn't fight me or make loud noises when I turn. I can also tell my headlights are a lot brighter with the better/newer alternator, so that's cool.

:waytogo:

Cleaned it up today at work so I took a picture. Hopefully going to do a little pasture wheeling at my buddys farm tomorrow, so we'll see how it does.

11141565946_5f1768dce6_b.jpg
 
Those wires get ripped pretty often when you have to lower the tank and put it back up. My wire was so green and corroded, I just stripped off about 2 or 3 inches until I saw shiny copper and then stuck it under the last bolt for the back strap that holds the tank up. I would suggest a proper lug terminal however.
 
Wire broke off of top of bucket. I did my best to soder it back on. From there it is bolted to the frame.

My truck is the same way and does not work
 
It's a common problem. Those wires get corroded to the point that it's best to just replace them. Copper is expensive though so I don't know how much it will cost. I don't know if there's another way to make the gauge work or not.
 
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