CK5
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Frame mod is 80%. All the trussing is done. There is a fuel cell skid plate the still needs to made as well as the mounting. The rear bumper and its mounting, the rock sliders need to go in. I’m going to cut the rockers out and weld the sliders in and the back to the frame. I’m going to throw down some paint and start prepping to get the drivetrain in place. I moved the engine cross member forward 2.25” and preliminary measurements suggest the the engine comes forward 1” the Drive shafts will both be 40” long.
Paint and I finally have my Dana 60 under. Cut the front fenders and I’m liking what I’m seeing there. Measured the wheelbase and it 116.5”
Ground to front spring spring eye 31.5 sitting on 43” tire
Belly height from ground 28”
Ground to front spring spring eye 31.5 sitting on 43” tire
Belly height from ground 28”
That fender cut looks like an example a former member mapped out years ago. It looks great!
Thanks!
I still have that saved somewhere lol
I have the front and rear pics saved in my "parts pics" album here, I mostly copied the cuts on my Blazer just not quite as extreme. "Yunit" was the original guy but he hasn't been around CK5 in forever, I don't think his Blazer ever got finished.
The sliders are 2” higher than the belly height frenched into the rocker like that. 2x3 x3/16” rect tube welded to the body all the way across. 3 tubes back to the frame with the rear and front tubes tied into the rollcage sandwiching the body. The bars going to the rear from B pillar will sandwich the body and be tied into the frame with a bushing as well. The front bars from A pillar to front spring hanger will do this as well. Seats will be cage mounted with a cradle that will be removable with bushings as well. Every bushing will be the same a typical poly leaf spring bush for a 78 Chevy half ton rear.
The floor has the stock removable trans cover and I’m going to cut the floor and make it into a removable cover over the transfer case. I’m thinking that it should be in 2 pieces so it’s easily removed from under the seat cradle so you would have to remove it. Another inspection cover for the gear oil pump and cooler/fan combo. Trans and T-case will separate crossmembers and the skid plate will bolt to the frame with no bolt heads protruding below it. The bushings for the crossmembers and the motor mounts will be steel sleeve stock rubber ones from a 78 Chevy rear spring. That should help with vibrations and rattles as well.
The floor has the stock removable trans cover and I’m going to cut the floor and make it into a removable cover over the transfer case. I’m thinking that it should be in 2 pieces so it’s easily removed from under the seat cradle so you would have to remove it. Another inspection cover for the gear oil pump and cooler/fan combo. Trans and T-case will separate crossmembers and the skid plate will bolt to the frame with no bolt heads protruding below it. The bushings for the crossmembers and the motor mounts will be steel sleeve stock rubber ones from a 78 Chevy rear spring. That should help with vibrations and rattles as well.
Front winchplate/crossmember is under way. It make no sense to me to put a tubular crossmember and then a winch mount when it can be one and the same. 1/4” plate bent with my radius die. I clocked the Warn Evo winch to be “foot mounted” so the release handle is up but the mounting to vertical. The 1.5 tube up front is just a spacer bar and will be taken out and replaced with the plate. The plate is going to get holes and slots and some more bending before it’s put in.
That's good. A lot of function for the parts present. Will you be capping off the front of the frame tubes?
How do you cut the oval slots? I've done it with a hole saw and cut-off wheel, but I'm thinking you have something better.
How do you cut the oval slots? I've done it with a hole saw and cut-off wheel, but I'm thinking you have something better.
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The winch plate is the cap for the frame tubes. I’m going to do hole saws and plasma in between. I keep all the hole saw plugs to use as tube caps.
Isn't trussing between the spring/shock and knuckle more important than the center section?
Most 60’s I’ve seen break at the diff on the long side so basically in half.
I think the majority solid axles break at that point, I have seen the c’s bend but usually it pulls the plug weld out of the center section.
Alright this is looking like what I imagined. There are bushings at both sides of the tube on top. Those are for the pivot of my tilt front clip. I’ll weld a stinger hoop to them and built off the structure that will support the hood,fenders and lights. 2 pins and 2 bolts and I will be able to remove the whole front clip.
Looks good.
