That's why you upgrade the house dishwasher then you use the old one for parts washing.
I actually have one to spare now, a house we are demolishing to build apartments has one and I don't need it.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
I actually have one to spare now, a house we are demolishing to build apartments has one and I don't need it.
I can't remember if leaving it open to atmosphere causes crankcase vacuum issues or not. Running the one side into the intake before the throttle blade is less suction on it I think. Not sure why one goes in before throttle and the other side after.
hmm okay, thanks.
... ill do some research n see what i find. Maybe i add another pcv so it only vents when needed?. I could plumb it in to my intake tube if need be as well. I did notice the ls6*? valley pan has a pcv valve in it. I wish i would of known and got one of those and had another factory location to plug into.
I was actually just cruising marketplace for a used one, since im in the process of digging the trench to run water to the shop for the heating system anyway.
The factory pcv system draws fresh air from the intake tube because it's after the MAF sensor so that any air drawn through the crankcase through the pcv valve and into the intake is accounted for so the computer can calculate the correct amount of fuel. In the factory setup if you set it to draw from atmosphere it would introduce a bunch of unmetered air and be like a massive vacuum leak.
Your Holley system is speed density and doesn't use a MAF sensor so put your fresh air draw wherever is convenient.
Your Holley system is speed density and doesn't use a MAF sensor so put your fresh air draw wherever is convenient.
Last edited:
That totally makes sense.
I found a TPS extension wire which is the same as the FPS wire, so I modified to harness a bit and got everything mapped out better. I ordered a 6 AN fitting with a 1/8 npt fuel pressure take off . The only extension I could find in stock was 24"... My plan is to run the pressure sensor on the fitting going into the rail. It will let me eat the slack up and keep one less thing from cluttering the front of this engine. While the intake was off I tidied up the wires behind the block , zip tied it all up . Got the intake back on and it all back in one piece. I also took the time to run the DBW harness all tucked into the intake, and ran all the wiring for the injectors tucked away, to try and clean it up.
So I sold my the factory pcm /ECM and harness and the coil harnesses... Then realized the Holley kit didn't come with them.. I decided to buy relocation harnesses, and run them in the factory location ( although it looks awful ) until I figure out where to relocated these too.
So I sold my the factory pcm /ECM and harness and the coil harnesses... Then realized the Holley kit didn't come with them.. I decided to buy relocation harnesses, and run them in the factory location ( although it looks awful ) until I figure out where to relocated these too.
Truck is coming together nicely dude!
I've seen the coils mounted vertically at the firewall so it kinda has a traditional distributor look with the way the plug wires are run back to them. But that means new plug wires.
Thanks man, its getting there! I cant wait to give it some test drives.
That would be the best look IMO. Some tall valve covers and the coils semi hidden. I probably shouldnt have shilled out my pennies on the nice wires..
this is true. im getting quite the little lot of parts i didnt end up using, external fuel pump, corvette fuel pressure reg, rear stainless brake lines ect.. im sure itd sell for a nice set of wires.
found a dusty basement with some goodies in it!
The price was so reasonable i really couldnt leave with out it.
Stoked to have found the 73-76 gmc grilles, they dont make repops of them anywhere ive looked..
The price was so reasonable i really couldnt leave with out it.
Stoked to have found the 73-76 gmc grilles, they dont make repops of them anywhere ive looked..
Dude yeah nice score on those grilles!!!
Oh yea i lucked out big time, and when the guy says whatevers in your pocket, youd have to be special to pass it up.. so i didnt... id love to run the 454 badge buut its even more far off now, than with a 350 in there haha. Maybe a 327 badge would be close enough haha.
Last edited:
The gauge clusters top right of the four gauge spots is just empty and has a see through molded hole in the plastic housing as well... not sure what thats for.
I Think ill steal the clock out of this if it works and add it to my gauge cluster since its a dead hole anyway.
I Think ill steal the clock out of this if it works and add it to my gauge cluster since its a dead hole anyway.
Yea i only really wanted the bezel. I sold the factory tach cluster i had since it only went to 5k. I just saw on LMC they sell factory style tachs that go to 7-8K which will be all id need. Not sure if they make a speedo too but that would let me retain my factory cluster with the holley system. The aftermarket clusters are like 1200 canadian shillings...
Like i mentioned above, I have been trying to retain the factory cluster because the aftermarket ones are as expensive as the holley touchscreen one, and the little 3.5 inch screen is great for a few things but id like to stare at some good indicators. I had a water temp gauge i never used and my old 3 gauges from the sbc. So i replaced the old mechanical water temp gauge with this electric one. The drivers side head at the front, is where i currently have the temp sender for the computer. I plan on using the sensor at the rear of the pass. side head to run this electrical one into the cab. I broke the old one when i was pulling the motor so i ordered up a stock temp sender and the pigtail connector for it as well.
I plan on having a trans temp gauge also whenever i get a rebuilt 4l60 for this thing, and then i wanted an oil pressure gauge.. The stock port at the back of the valley pan has the sensor hooked to the ECU in it and i did some diggin and ive seen guys drilling and taping the oil bypass cover for 1/8 npt. Im gonna give it a go because worst case i can just buy a new little cover. That will let me have trans temp, water temp, oil pressure , RPM gauge, and then ill just not have a speedo except for the litle handheld. Who even needs one anyway..
Had some vaccum line plugs laying around so i capped the Fuel evap on the top of the intake, capped the valve cover vent and tossed a cheapo valve cover vent cap in there for now to atleast keep oil out of the intake. I did take off my valve covers and they are the newer style ones with rectangular drain slots in them and seemed to be decently clean behind there. I will modify them if i have oil consumption like the fella did in that video.
I found the factory punch marks in the core support for the addition of these brackets from factory. I drilled them out, found some washers and bolts, and got the grill mounted.
Now that the grill is on there and sturdy i am thinking about making some home made brackets to pick up the missing screw points off the firewall.
I realized this eliminated any adjustment of the grill. So im thinking i will elongate the holes maybe 1/4 up and down to have some adjusting in the brackets on the firewall.
I plan on having a trans temp gauge also whenever i get a rebuilt 4l60 for this thing, and then i wanted an oil pressure gauge.. The stock port at the back of the valley pan has the sensor hooked to the ECU in it and i did some diggin and ive seen guys drilling and taping the oil bypass cover for 1/8 npt. Im gonna give it a go because worst case i can just buy a new little cover. That will let me have trans temp, water temp, oil pressure , RPM gauge, and then ill just not have a speedo except for the litle handheld. Who even needs one anyway..
Had some vaccum line plugs laying around so i capped the Fuel evap on the top of the intake, capped the valve cover vent and tossed a cheapo valve cover vent cap in there for now to atleast keep oil out of the intake. I did take off my valve covers and they are the newer style ones with rectangular drain slots in them and seemed to be decently clean behind there. I will modify them if i have oil consumption like the fella did in that video.
I found the factory punch marks in the core support for the addition of these brackets from factory. I drilled them out, found some washers and bolts, and got the grill mounted.
Now that the grill is on there and sturdy i am thinking about making some home made brackets to pick up the missing screw points off the firewall.
I realized this eliminated any adjustment of the grill. So im thinking i will elongate the holes maybe 1/4 up and down to have some adjusting in the brackets on the firewall.
