CK5
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Your last bracket looks good!
Thanks! I figured I should use an angle finder and match it all up since I can learn from my first attempts. I really want to get a an adjustable box jig made, so I can square things up easier than using the angle finder. Taking a liking to metal work and want to invest in a band saw, drill press, and a mini brake..
@mrk5 I may be wrong but do I remember seeing your work bench mat labelled with 360° angles, and such?
That'd be awesome. I appreciate it !
Does the centre console have a bracket at the front and back? Pictures I have just show one.. and it's in the console unattached so not the greatest reference.
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That's awesome. Makermat it is!
The factory brackets is 1.5" tall and .120" (11ga) thick.
So I kinda tripped into the rabbit hole of these brakes.. hoping someone can confirm the findings of the internet.
Since I have only the manual brake pedal hole, and no provision for the power brakes ( I thought was strange, since they had them at that point )
I was looking up what the factory Chevy power ratio was. I didn't find anything for a c10 but I did find b body stuff that said 6:1 was standard. My stock pedal is showing 6:1 (15" / 2.5"). I also read that a standard manual set up shouldn't be greater than 6:1, and a power set up shouldn't be greater than 4:1.
I dont want to mess up the hole because i could easily fubar the pedal, so I figured I'd find some math. The math I found is conflicting though, it says you divide the area of the piston, by the area of the bore in the master. According to them the area of the bore goes like this.
I'm using a 1 1/18 bore so the area is .99in sq. And the piston area of my calipers, which are 2.75 " / 5.94 " sq.
5.94 / .99 gives me roughly my current ratio.. this article they were using a brake booster also...
I played around with my calculator, and found what distance from the pivot point to the rod would work, reducing my ratio down to something not greater than 4:1.
3 inches as shown would give me 5:1, and it seems like people add anywhere from .75 to 1 inch to the distance. 3.5 " would give me 4.28:1.
I feel like since the pivot pins size is roughly half inch. I worry about putting it in the wrong place as an extra half inch either way, would create a hole that's problem sized.
Does anyone have a factory pedal with two holes? Wondering what ratio gm had with power brakes?
Also thinking this brake rod pin might have to be ground out and re welded in its new place? Unless I can drill a new hole and source out another pin.
Since I have only the manual brake pedal hole, and no provision for the power brakes ( I thought was strange, since they had them at that point )
I was looking up what the factory Chevy power ratio was. I didn't find anything for a c10 but I did find b body stuff that said 6:1 was standard. My stock pedal is showing 6:1 (15" / 2.5"). I also read that a standard manual set up shouldn't be greater than 6:1, and a power set up shouldn't be greater than 4:1.
I dont want to mess up the hole because i could easily fubar the pedal, so I figured I'd find some math. The math I found is conflicting though, it says you divide the area of the piston, by the area of the bore in the master. According to them the area of the bore goes like this.
I'm using a 1 1/18 bore so the area is .99in sq. And the piston area of my calipers, which are 2.75 " / 5.94 " sq.
5.94 / .99 gives me roughly my current ratio.. this article they were using a brake booster also...
I played around with my calculator, and found what distance from the pivot point to the rod would work, reducing my ratio down to something not greater than 4:1.
3 inches as shown would give me 5:1, and it seems like people add anywhere from .75 to 1 inch to the distance. 3.5 " would give me 4.28:1.
I feel like since the pivot pins size is roughly half inch. I worry about putting it in the wrong place as an extra half inch either way, would create a hole that's problem sized.
Does anyone have a factory pedal with two holes? Wondering what ratio gm had with power brakes?
Also thinking this brake rod pin might have to be ground out and re welded in its new place? Unless I can drill a new hole and source out another pin.
Yea I couldn't seem to get a firm pedal and they only grabbed at the end of the stroke, now I know it may very well be a completely different issue, but while the seats are out and crawling under there is less of a wrench throwing situation, I thought it'd try and tackle it.
I think I'm gonna go the welding route, and then I can always cut the tack and change the position if I need too, instead of ending up with a Swiss cheese'd pedal.
You are over thinking this problem. Get a measurement from a factory pedal that matches the parts you are installing. Between imiceman44, 100 other parts hoarders on this site, and myself, there is likely someone with the correct pedal and a tape measure available to give you the correct measurement.
What are you setting up again? Vacuum or hydroboost brakes? Mechanical or hydraulic clutch pedal assembly?
I have the peddles out of gangrene on my shelf. 79 manual peddles. They are vacuum power if you want me to measure the pin?
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Oh absolutely. I've looked all over for a picture showing both factory holes so I could even just guestimate, but then I started learning and next thing ya know I'm doing math haha.
The truck came with factory manual brakes. I bought a new booster, and a 1 1/8 bore master to go with the power brakes. I also have rear disks using stock d52 gm calipers.
Thanks dean, It appears the centre of the pivot point is around the half inch mark, so thats 3.5 inches from pivot to the brake rod. Currently mine is 2.5, so Ill lower it one inch and call it good. That puts the ratio at 4.28 :1 for GM c10 power brake set ups, and 6:1 for manual brakes.
@imiceman44 I think that would probably be okay because the bore of the manual master would be 1". Since i bought a Master cylinder thats meant for a booster, the bore is 1 1/8, and i think its causing it to be spongy and then grabby at the end.
Starting to button up the last of the bigger interior tasks. Seat brackets are done now , and the seat warmers showed up.. so i got the warmers and upholstry installed today. Thats not a task thats easy on the hands... Didnt get any instructions, so i took my time and it turned out good i think. I used my heat gun to warm them up on install, since its cold in here most of the time. Itll be interesting to see how it settles from being sat in.
The kit seems to have a relay located under the seat, an inline fuse, and a long wire toggle switch. I was already planing on cutting out the cigarette lighter and welding a piece in there for a socket/usb plug. Hoping to make space for the seat warmer switches also. Either that or in the console hidden.
The kit seems to have a relay located under the seat, an inline fuse, and a long wire toggle switch. I was already planing on cutting out the cigarette lighter and welding a piece in there for a socket/usb plug. Hoping to make space for the seat warmer switches also. Either that or in the console hidden.
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