When in rome! I took the crane antiquing in hinton anyhow, so it had a few fun stops. And honestly im still recovering.. Heart burn is constant and awful, still feeling week and malnourished thats for sure.
CK5
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That is coming together super nice!
I love the colour under the hood!
I love the colour under the hood!
It's getting there! The generator has taken up a lot of time due to the fact it's plopped right in the middle of the shop. Got the doors hung though and slowly tossing pieces into them. Haven't quite figured out the mirrors though and I presume I should have done those first...
atleast Ill get a refresher on these going together.I'm also moving all my stuff over to the tall side of the shop again, as I am going to try and do something with the other half, either a rental space or possibly open up a tattoo/art studio store type deal to bring in some cash. Real estate here is so nuts most artists can't afford space to work out of so this would help them, and me! Meanwhile I'm also in for a BUNCH of summer projects and I refuse to let this get burried under all of them
The wife is also looking into building a suite above the shop and we can air BNB out the house for a couple years to cover mortgage payments while we save money..
As for the color, it really did make my job easy not having to choose from a swatch and also I can just bring in a chunk to get matched.
Since im trying to seperate the two sides of the shop for rental purposes, I put together what was needed to get the truck running so i could drive it into the other door. Didnt make it too far before my make shift power steering set up, failed. When i got stuck on a hump. I also had it die going into gear, so i need to re check the brake switch wire in the transmission harness. Made it into the shop, might have toasted the pump but wont know until i repair the line. Cant troubleshoot the trans issue until the pump line ia fixed. Using what i have, im going to join half of the OE line with the 18 mm flare fiting, to the end of the OE 07 Gm line after the stock crimp, with a 5/16 high pressure compression coupler. I just need to grab the coupler in town sometime this week.
Had an issue with my fans, i had wired in the fuel and fan relays the same, although one is 12v switched and one is ground switched. Got that sorted out. Made another list and hopefully test drive next week.
something i noticed is the manual oil pressure gauge that i installed into the bypass cover, reads a good 10 psi higher than the one up in the back of the valley pan, Kinda cool to have two reference points depending on engine placement.
also need to fine tune my fuel pressure regulator up to 60 psi.
It sat there stuck for long enough , the cat took an afternoon nap on it
Had an issue with my fans, i had wired in the fuel and fan relays the same, although one is 12v switched and one is ground switched. Got that sorted out. Made another list and hopefully test drive next week.
something i noticed is the manual oil pressure gauge that i installed into the bypass cover, reads a good 10 psi higher than the one up in the back of the valley pan, Kinda cool to have two reference points depending on engine placement.
also need to fine tune my fuel pressure regulator up to 60 psi.
It sat there stuck for long enough , the cat took an afternoon nap on it
Slowing ticking away things on the list. Got the power steering lines temporarily fixed with a compression fitting. I don't think this will be a long term fix at all but it'll allow me to run the engine without frying my pump, so I can troubleshoot the other issues on the pre test drive list...
Got these issues sorted.
-Turn signal issue fixed.
-Brake pedal getting stiffer, probably bleed again.
-Secondary coolant temp sensor wiring.
-Trans gauge lights ect..
It's so nice to fix all these stupid little small things that you don't really think about, but know they are there...
I also left all the lights and accessories on for a good hour or more. No signs of fire yet...
I do want to install another o2 sensor in the right bank , not just for information but also in case the one attached to the Holley fails and it tries to compensate for the errors. Any one have any o2 sensors to recommend? Wondering if I should run the same one as the Holley so I could always switch it over in case of failure?
Hoping to get all the little things sorted by this weekend and then smash out the doors, and test drive!
Got these issues sorted.
-Turn signal issue fixed.
-Brake pedal getting stiffer, probably bleed again.
-Secondary coolant temp sensor wiring.
-Trans gauge lights ect..
It's so nice to fix all these stupid little small things that you don't really think about, but know they are there...
I also left all the lights and accessories on for a good hour or more. No signs of fire yet...
I do want to install another o2 sensor in the right bank , not just for information but also in case the one attached to the Holley fails and it tries to compensate for the errors. Any one have any o2 sensors to recommend? Wondering if I should run the same one as the Holley so I could always switch it over in case of failure?
Hoping to get all the little things sorted by this weekend and then smash out the doors, and test drive!
Ticked a few more things off the list. My prop valve was leaking bad so I switched back to the other one I had as my patience is wearing a bit thin at this point. Swapping in the other one fixed the issue for now. Power steering seems to be holding up which is good. Didn't have any ps fluid but I just used trans fluid since I had it laying around. All the trucks at work run trans fluid sooo it can't be toooo bad...
Got both mirrors on the truck. I didn't tack weld in the little piece that acts as a brace, but will in the future. Going to keep plugging away at the door internals today. Once they are both done I can really start getting ready to drive this thing.
I was having issues with my MAP sensor reading 138 kpa with key on and also at start up. This was causing some of my rough idling issues at the ECU had to to correct the fuel trim ect for this sensor reading. I tested my wires from the ECU and I have 5v, ground and a signal wire, so that's all good. Tested the MAP sensor by applying vacuum and watching the sensor reading.. a whole lot of nothing happening there. Replaced with a spectra premium unit as it was the only one I could find locally. This solved my issue and now it's reading 98 kpa with key on, and starts up much better at idle. One annoying thing is that on the Holley software I switched kpa to psi for my fueling tables ect.. but on the handheld it's still in kpa.. makes it even more annoying! Guess I'll have to get used to kpa so it's an easy reference from handheld to laptop. I installed a splitter on the Holley can bus so I can have my laptop and handheld plugged into the ECU at the same time.
Today I gotta get the doors done and the brakes bled since I went and messed that all up by swapping the prop valve. I also didn't eyeball my exhaust very well and it isn't too parallel with the frame and hangs down more than I wanted it to, as it travels back to the diff.
It's pouring and a good day to hibernate in the shop and avoid all the property chores .
Got both mirrors on the truck. I didn't tack weld in the little piece that acts as a brace, but will in the future. Going to keep plugging away at the door internals today. Once they are both done I can really start getting ready to drive this thing.
I was having issues with my MAP sensor reading 138 kpa with key on and also at start up. This was causing some of my rough idling issues at the ECU had to to correct the fuel trim ect for this sensor reading. I tested my wires from the ECU and I have 5v, ground and a signal wire, so that's all good. Tested the MAP sensor by applying vacuum and watching the sensor reading.. a whole lot of nothing happening there. Replaced with a spectra premium unit as it was the only one I could find locally. This solved my issue and now it's reading 98 kpa with key on, and starts up much better at idle. One annoying thing is that on the Holley software I switched kpa to psi for my fueling tables ect.. but on the handheld it's still in kpa.. makes it even more annoying! Guess I'll have to get used to kpa so it's an easy reference from handheld to laptop. I installed a splitter on the Holley can bus so I can have my laptop and handheld plugged into the ECU at the same time.
Today I gotta get the doors done and the brakes bled since I went and messed that all up by swapping the prop valve. I also didn't eyeball my exhaust very well and it isn't too parallel with the frame and hangs down more than I wanted it to, as it travels back to the diff.
It's pouring and a good day to hibernate in the shop and avoid all the property chores .
Really rough conversion from kpa to psi is to divide by 7, which you probably figured by now. 
I like the anti-bling on this truck. white painted bumper, rims, and now mirrors. Also digging the art wall, or stress relief wall...
Power steering is 100% A-OK with trans fluid.
I like the anti-bling on this truck. white painted bumper, rims, and now mirrors. Also digging the art wall, or stress relief wall...
Power steering is 100% A-OK with trans fluid.
Spent the day dropping every part into the bottom of the doors.. atleast twice, but the doors are getting there. Got the glass and passenger door parts in. The window weatherstriping channel is one big piece which is nice, although it is a little annoying this way. Doors are pretty complete. I forgot about the S shaped door braces, that go from the bottom mirror bolt, over to the inner door steel. So ill have to do that before i continue.
I also lost a couple of those retaining clips that mount the door mechanism rods, to their alotted hole.. so i jumped at the opportunity to use the new to me drill press i bought. drilled a hole for a cotter pin.
One thing im slightly confused about is the metal bracket that bolts the arm rest in, has the holes near the long outside edge. These 73-76 door panels should have the hole near the door. Im going to have to drill and modify these ones to work i think, they also seem to interfere slightly at the top as if they are a little too tall. Ill re look at it all with fresh eyes, but im thinking its just 79 and 74 doors, coliding.
Theres also quite a gap at the window crank. Did they have deeper crank handles or am i missing something else. Took these doors apart a long time ago now..
I actually didn't know that, that'll be a good benchmark. For the most part I use my laptop now because I'm not driving,so being stationary with my laptop works. When it comes to driving, I may bring it with me if I run into issues, but wouldn't have it open.
I wanted to put it back to the way it came. Which was factory white bumper, white mirrors and white wheels. The factory white mirrors were the westcoast ones, but a parts truck that a friend had, had these factory white mirrors. I always toyed with the idea but sanding chrome down to do so, always seemed like a little much. These white ones cleaned up real well.
I also lost a couple of those retaining clips that mount the door mechanism rods, to their alotted hole.. so i jumped at the opportunity to use the new to me drill press i bought. drilled a hole for a cotter pin.
One thing im slightly confused about is the metal bracket that bolts the arm rest in, has the holes near the long outside edge. These 73-76 door panels should have the hole near the door. Im going to have to drill and modify these ones to work i think, they also seem to interfere slightly at the top as if they are a little too tall. Ill re look at it all with fresh eyes, but im thinking its just 79 and 74 doors, coliding.
Theres also quite a gap at the window crank. Did they have deeper crank handles or am i missing something else. Took these doors apart a long time ago now..
Really rough conversion from kpa to psi is to divide by 7, which you probably figured by now.
I like the anti-bling on this truck. white painted bumper, rims, and now mirrors. Also digging the art wall, or stress relief wall...
Power steering is 100% A-OK with trans fluid.
I actually didn't know that, that'll be a good benchmark. For the most part I use my laptop now because I'm not driving,so being stationary with my laptop works. When it comes to driving, I may bring it with me if I run into issues, but wouldn't have it open.
I wanted to put it back to the way it came. Which was factory white bumper, white mirrors and white wheels. The factory white mirrors were the westcoast ones, but a parts truck that a friend had, had these factory white mirrors. I always toyed with the idea but sanding chrome down to do so, always seemed like a little much. These white ones cleaned up real well.
The window regulators are completely different between the first and second generation doors. The 77-80 door panel and regulator sticks out farther, uses different size rollers and a couple other differences.Theres also quite a gap at the window crank. Did they have deeper crank handles or am i missing something else. Took these doors apart a long time ago now..
Ahh I figured. Well so far, all of my guts have fit in the 74 door shells well, I'll have to do something with the handle crank shaft. For now I'll just live with a gap there, but maybe cut it down and use a crank handle with a pinch bolt or something. I can easily cut the foam pad down that is on the shaft. Confirming it's different is the knowledge I need, to hack it apart and make it work.
Tried looking up door parts on LMC because they have exploded views, but they just have one for 73-91 doors.. so it wasn't much help.
Took the ol' girl on the maiden voyage today. Did pretty good I think. Got some leaks and what not to address but it didn't blow up so that's good. Brake pedal still very soft but brakes work for sure. Will do another full bleed.
To try and break in the rear end. I drove it about 15-20 minutes, let it cool down and did another 45 minutes or so. Will change gear oil before next drive, and inspect the rear end.
On the drive home the handheld monitor just went black.. pulled over. Unplugged ,re plugged ect... And still no luck.. didn't mess with it much when I got home at all. Hoping it's an easy solution when I get back to it.
Stoked the transmission has all its gears. Trans temp was around 160-180 at the highest. It does kick into gear pretty aggressively sometimes.. gonna see what that's about.
Oil pressure was steady 38-40, and up to 50-53 driving, depending on rpm.
Coolant temp was steady around 192
Noticing some ticking noise around cylinder 6-8. Going to pull valve cover and inspect. I did swap out a pushrod and rocker arm, don't remember which one though off the top of my head.
Before the next test drive I should probably put the last seat bolt in, bolt in seat belts, and maybe bolt the centre console in...
To try and break in the rear end. I drove it about 15-20 minutes, let it cool down and did another 45 minutes or so. Will change gear oil before next drive, and inspect the rear end.
On the drive home the handheld monitor just went black.. pulled over. Unplugged ,re plugged ect... And still no luck.. didn't mess with it much when I got home at all. Hoping it's an easy solution when I get back to it.
Stoked the transmission has all its gears. Trans temp was around 160-180 at the highest. It does kick into gear pretty aggressively sometimes.. gonna see what that's about.
Oil pressure was steady 38-40, and up to 50-53 driving, depending on rpm.
Coolant temp was steady around 192
Noticing some ticking noise around cylinder 6-8. Going to pull valve cover and inspect. I did swap out a pushrod and rocker arm, don't remember which one though off the top of my head.
Before the next test drive I should probably put the last seat bolt in, bolt in seat belts, and maybe bolt the centre console in...
Got a ...."few" exhaust leaks to fix..
Getting the first drive over with is always a nice hurdle to clear.
Oh ya.. so much less to worry about and whole lot more motivation now to address the next steps. I have been really pushing lately to get it to this point, so I can close a chapter and relax a bit. It's been in the shop for a good 18 months at this point...
Did an oil change, and definitely suspect in terms of the metal in there. Something's eating itself I think, and hopefully it's on the top end where the ticking is, or something else decently repairable if no permanent damage is done. Only a few little pieces stuck to my magnet, so hoping I caught it fast enough... Flying out today, so I'll start the discovery when I get back...
This is what I was able to pick up with running the magnet along the bottom of the pan...
Has anyone ever painted one of these white? You'd think it'd make it easier to look at the oil
I've been saving up to have a transmission rebuilt or a new torque converter made... So hopefully it'll cost less than what I have saved!
It sucks I put the top end back together so long ago now, I'm having a hard time thinking of things I might have missed, or messed up. I've also been looking for a reason to buy an oil filter cutter for awhile now, besides curiosity. Maybe a nice set of certain cutters would work just as well.
This is what I was able to pick up with running the magnet along the bottom of the pan...
Has anyone ever painted one of these white? You'd think it'd make it easier to look at the oil
I've been saving up to have a transmission rebuilt or a new torque converter made... So hopefully it'll cost less than what I have saved!
It sucks I put the top end back together so long ago now, I'm having a hard time thinking of things I might have missed, or messed up. I've also been looking for a reason to buy an oil filter cutter for awhile now, besides curiosity. Maybe a nice set of certain cutters would work just as well.
Got this pic off F/B
