He is right. The most sure way to check your gears is to pull the diff covers. Then you know they has good clean fluid in them.
Martin
Martin
CK5
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83 Jimmy build, what to do first?
- Thread starter K5trs
- Start date
K5trs
1/2 ton status
Alright I'll do that today if my dad doesn't need me at the shop. If not ill do it tomorrow. How much will all the supplies including drain pan and gasket scraper run me?
Depends on what you go with, where you get your stuff from. Is there a Harbor Freight, or a Walmart near you?
Martin
Martin
K5trs
1/2 ton status
Not a harbor freight but a Walmart, would that be my best bet or should I go to O'reilys?
Walmart will have cheap 80w90 gear oil. Get 6 or 7 qts and some gasket maker rtv stuff. Have some razor blades on hand. And some brake cleaner to spray out any pieces of debris you get in the housing while messing around. Trust me you will.
K5trs
1/2 ton status
What will I need the gasket scraper for? And will I need to jack the truck up?
You won't necessarily need to jack the truck up. The gasket scraper is to clean up the mating surface of the inspection cover and the differential housing. You'll need a low oil catch pan, and a place to dispose of the old oil.
Martin
Martin
They make drain pans that have a cover or something so that you can bring the old oil to a recycle place. I would think your dads machine shop has a used oil tank or something like that. Most parts stores will dispose of your old oil for free provided you bought it there in the first place.
Jacking the axle up and properly supporting on stands will allow you to spin the driveshaft to turn the gears for visual inspection.
Black RTV for the covers
7 bottles of cheapo 80-90 gear oil
1-2 cans of brake cleaner
Gasket scraper, putty knife scraper, something to clean the gasket surfaces
Basic 3/8 drive ratchet/socket set
Drain pan, maybe with a cover?
Rags
Everything that you don't already have should be available at the parts store or wally world.
Jacking the axle up and properly supporting on stands will allow you to spin the driveshaft to turn the gears for visual inspection.
Black RTV for the covers
7 bottles of cheapo 80-90 gear oil
1-2 cans of brake cleaner
Gasket scraper, putty knife scraper, something to clean the gasket surfaces
Basic 3/8 drive ratchet/socket set
Drain pan, maybe with a cover?
Rags
Everything that you don't already have should be available at the parts store or wally world.
Gasket scraper is to scrape off the old gasket 
razor blade works too. BRAKE CLEAN! Get some to clean all the gasket junk and dirt and debris thats gonna fall on the ring gear so you dont have all crud in there when you put it back together and ruin your rear end. No filters in the axles
razor blade works too. BRAKE CLEAN! Get some to clean all the gasket junk and dirt and debris thats gonna fall on the ring gear so you dont have all crud in there when you put it back together and ruin your rear end. No filters in the axles K5trs
1/2 ton status
Ok this sounds stupid and I know it's simple but could someone give me a step by step guide to doing this and maybe a diagram? I just don't want to mess up. Do I just do this to the rear end? And are jack stands expensive should I get 6 tons? I guess I should buy 4? Sorry for my ignorance guys and thanks for the advice! And should I invest in a better jack if so what kind?
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Jackstands can be expensive. 4 ton ones will hold it up, but the heavier ones are usually also taller.
As for step by step.
Disconnect the ground cable on the battery.
Okay, I joking about that step.
Jack up the rear axle, set the jackstands under the axle, and let the jack down so the weight is resting on the jackstands.
Clean off the dirt and grease from the axles housing around the cover. You don't have to be super thorough.
Set the drain pan under the center of the axle.
Remove 8 of the 10 bolts holding the diff cover on. Leave two at the top in, but loose.
Pop the cover loose with a screwdriver. The gear oil should start to drain out into the pan.
Wait till the flow slows down and take out the last two bolts.
Spray a can or two of brake cleaner into the differential. Start at the top and work your way down, trying to clean the old grease out of everything.
Spin the ring gear around till you can read the numbers stamped into the outer diameter of the ring gear. Take a picture of those numbers.
Use a gasket scraper to clean off the gasket area of the differential housing and of the cover.
Clean out the inside of the cover thoroughly.
Apply a bead of silicone to the cover, and put is in place on the differential housing.
Install the 10 bolts, and tighten them down.
Roll around to the front side of the axle housing. There should be a pipe plug screwed into the housing. Remove the pipe plug.
Fill the housing up with gear oil until it is level with the bottom of that hole.
Screw plug back in place.
Repeat this process on the front axle.
Martin
As for step by step.
Disconnect the ground cable on the battery.
Okay, I joking about that step.
Jack up the rear axle, set the jackstands under the axle, and let the jack down so the weight is resting on the jackstands.
Clean off the dirt and grease from the axles housing around the cover. You don't have to be super thorough.
Set the drain pan under the center of the axle.
Remove 8 of the 10 bolts holding the diff cover on. Leave two at the top in, but loose.
Pop the cover loose with a screwdriver. The gear oil should start to drain out into the pan.
Wait till the flow slows down and take out the last two bolts.
Spray a can or two of brake cleaner into the differential. Start at the top and work your way down, trying to clean the old grease out of everything.
Spin the ring gear around till you can read the numbers stamped into the outer diameter of the ring gear. Take a picture of those numbers.
Use a gasket scraper to clean off the gasket area of the differential housing and of the cover.
Clean out the inside of the cover thoroughly.
Apply a bead of silicone to the cover, and put is in place on the differential housing.
Install the 10 bolts, and tighten them down.
Roll around to the front side of the axle housing. There should be a pipe plug screwed into the housing. Remove the pipe plug.
Fill the housing up with gear oil until it is level with the bottom of that hole.
Screw plug back in place.
Repeat this process on the front axle.
Martin
Good description, except that the front axle fill plug is in the cover itself not in the axle housing like the rear.
And when it comes time to run a bead of RTV to seal the covers it should look like this....
Notice the RTV goes around the "inner" side of the bolt holes (the fluid side) not the outer edge.
Set the cover in place, put the bolts in and snug them down. DON'T CRANK THEM TIGHT!!! Let the RTV set up a little while (30-45 minutes) before coming back to tighten the bolts and fill with fluid. And when I say "tighten" you don't need to crank them down. Just tight. Don't really know how else to describe it, this is something you get a feel for after spending time working on your truck.
And when it comes time to run a bead of RTV to seal the covers it should look like this....
Notice the RTV goes around the "inner" side of the bolt holes (the fluid side) not the outer edge.
Set the cover in place, put the bolts in and snug them down. DON'T CRANK THEM TIGHT!!! Let the RTV set up a little while (30-45 minutes) before coming back to tighten the bolts and fill with fluid. And when I say "tighten" you don't need to crank them down. Just tight. Don't really know how else to describe it, this is something you get a feel for after spending time working on your truck.
K5trs
1/2 ton status
On my way to grab some tools! Then it's just time to wait for the jimmy to get out of the shop!
K5trs
1/2 ton status
Well I bought some stuff. I got a 12 ton jack for 46$, 4 ton jack stands, 3 quarts of gear oil (underestimated and didn't grab enough money), and some brake cleaner! Is there a reason royal purple is 3 times as expensive as the gear oil I got at 5.14 a quart?
Because it makes some people feel good about themselves when they go to bed at night. The stuff you bought will work just fine.
Martin
Martin
I put royal purple in my new engine just because i wanted to see how good it works. Its no different than any other synthetic really. But for gear oil i just by the cheap stuff.
K5trs
1/2 ton status
I just realized I forgot black RTV oh well. Back to O'reilys
K5trs
1/2 ton status
I'm planning on going rabbit hunting with some friends and I was wondering what would be the best way to take some extra fuel? Throw some fuel containers in the back? And besides a socket/wrench set what tools/supplies should I bring in case of mechanical emergency?
Jester1
1/2 ton status
Things to pack in SIMPLE trail bag (and I will probably forget something so fill in the blanks):
wrenches
Muti-tip flip scewdriver
Small socket set
Pliers (dykes, channel locks, standard, needlenose, etc)
brake fluid
tranny fluid
oil
antifreeze
zip tyes multi sizes (but 6" are the best and you can add them all together to make longer)
tire fix a flat (use as last resort, change to spare first)
spare tire (with air in it, long story)
prybar
Socket or 4 way wrench tat fit your lug nuts
your fancy new bottle jack (even if you have the factory jack they suck)
Tube of silicone RTV or I like to pack shoe goo also
Hose clamps multi sizes
Duct tape
rags
brake cleaner or window cleaner (cleans more than windows)
Baby wipes
shovel
Tow strap or chain
ratchet straps
jumpercables
This should all fit neatly in a milk crate so it can be used as a grab and go box. As I said I probably forgot some thing small but this will get you started.
I have been following along with your threads and proud to have you on the fourm. You really seem to want to learn so we will gladly be here for you. As far as first big money to spend on your rig, skip the lift and motor stuff for now do the reliability repairs and for your first big purchase looking at your pics get some tires please. 33" should fit fine or 285/75 if you have 16" rims. You have no real tread to speak of and it looks like sidewalls have been run up against some curbs. The tires you have now will last till you can aford new ones. Just my .02 cents.
wrenches
Muti-tip flip scewdriver
Small socket set
Pliers (dykes, channel locks, standard, needlenose, etc)
brake fluid
tranny fluid
oil
antifreeze
zip tyes multi sizes (but 6" are the best and you can add them all together to make longer)
tire fix a flat (use as last resort, change to spare first)
spare tire (with air in it, long story)
prybar
Socket or 4 way wrench tat fit your lug nuts
your fancy new bottle jack (even if you have the factory jack they suck)
Tube of silicone RTV or I like to pack shoe goo also
Hose clamps multi sizes
Duct tape
rags
brake cleaner or window cleaner (cleans more than windows)
Baby wipes
shovel
Tow strap or chain
ratchet straps
jumpercables
This should all fit neatly in a milk crate so it can be used as a grab and go box. As I said I probably forgot some thing small but this will get you started.
I have been following along with your threads and proud to have you on the fourm. You really seem to want to learn so we will gladly be here for you. As far as first big money to spend on your rig, skip the lift and motor stuff for now do the reliability repairs and for your first big purchase looking at your pics get some tires please. 33" should fit fine or 285/75 if you have 16" rims. You have no real tread to speak of and it looks like sidewalls have been run up against some curbs. The tires you have now will last till you can aford new ones. Just my .02 cents.
Jester1
1/2 ton status
Soory looked bak at pics. Forget the sidewall comment they are fine. Funny angle when looking at it on my phone. still say new tires though. something a little more aggresive (mud, trail, sand) since this is not your DD.
