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84 Crew Cab Whatever Build

Well, thanks for posting all the same. I was curious how the bell would center up to drill new holes. Looks like it self aligns on the input shaft mounting plate. It went together fine too. Does the clutch feel alright? Which clutch did you use? One for the SM465?

Yes, it self aligns on the input lip. There are mechanical bell housings for non-SM465 transmissions that will fit in every regard except for having a smaller diameter input lip. The SM465 and NV4500 share the same lip diameter, so it's pretty easy mounting it up. The one bolt that's further from center was close to overlapping with the NV4500 bolt pattern. I remember rotating my bell housing a tiny bit from vertical to gain some clearance there. I based my work on some pictures that Martin dug up of someone else doing the same. Those pictures are either in the M1009 thread or in my NV4500 tech thread (I gathered ideas for a while before going ahead with this one).

Clutch-wise, I haven't installed the hydraulics yet, so it hasn't been tested. But that will probably be done soon, stay tuned over there for updates. I used a newer take-out clutch from one of the members here. Supposedly came off of a 6.5, I bought the flywheel and clutch set together. It is 12" diameter LUK clutch with 2 sets of springs. Don't remember the P/N, but it's the same dimensional size as the standard clutch for a 1986 6.2 pickup.
 
If it were me, I would find a hydraulic clutch pedal assembly to swap into your truck, well worth the upgrade.

Also, you can just run the normal NV4500 bell housing is you want. What year is your NV4500. If its the 92-95 external slave setup, then you can just bolt up the NV4500 bell and slave cylinder, run the line up to the 85-87 hydro master cylinder, and you can just adapt the two lines together with a $5 Swaglok tube adapter. That's what I did on mine and even though the truck isn't running, I've bleed the clutch and the pedal feel really good. Unless you have an SM465 hydro bell laying around, I personally feel like this is a better route to go, but that's just me.

I think you will be wishing you just swapped to a hydro clutch when you swapped in the NV4500 instead of dealing with what you currently have IMO
 
If it were me, I would find a hydraulic clutch pedal assembly to swap into your truck, well worth the upgrade.

Also, you can just run the normal NV4500 bell housing is you want. What year is your NV4500. If its the 92-95 external slave setup, then you can just bolt up the NV4500 bell and slave cylinder, run the line up to the 85-87 hydro master cylinder, and you can just adapt the two lines together with a $5 Swaglok tube adapter. That's what I did on mine and even though the truck isn't running, I've bleed the clutch and the pedal feel really good. Unless you have an SM465 hydro bell laying around, I personally feel like this is a better route to go, but that's just me.

I think you will be wishing you just swapped to a hydro clutch when you swapped in the NV4500 instead of dealing with what you currently have IMO

I agree with these thoughts. I opted for the SM465 bell housing because I didn't like how the normal NV4500 bell housing wedges the slave cylinder between the starter motor and the front driveshaft. With a 2WD truck one of these issues is resolved, but either position works. And if you have a 96+ NV4500 you will have an internal clutch slave anyways.
 
The NV4500 for this truck is the 92-95 version. I'll keep an eye out for a bell but the only one I have seen so far, they were asking around $400 for. I'd rather just drill for bolt holes and go with what I have. Time seems to be a precious commodity as well with three kids. So, using the SM465 bell seems like it would keep things simple and save time. Not sure that I would notice the difference anyways.
 
The NV4500 for this truck is the 92-95 version. I'll keep an eye out for a bell but the only one I have seen so far, they were asking around $400 for. I'd rather just drill for bolt holes and go with what I have. Time seems to be a precious commodity as well with three kids. So, using the SM465 bell seems like it would keep things simple and save time. Not sure that I would notice the difference anyways.

Do you have a 465 bell housing? I have an extra mechanical-clutch SM465 bell housing lying around if you're looking for one. Full disclosure, the reason that it's sitting is that I agree with the above post that hydraulic clutches are nice. :crazy:
 
love this build.

re the saddle tanks, I had an '87 R10 Pickup with the small dual tanks and a 305. Problem was each tank was filled on its own side. Filling both tanks was a pita! At the risk of sounding like a heretic, Fords from "our" era had both fill doors on the same side. Might be worth looking into.
 
love this build.

re the saddle tanks, I had an '87 R10 Pickup with the small dual tanks and a 305. Problem was each tank was filled on its own side. Filling both tanks was a pita! At the risk of sounding like a heretic, Fords from "our" era had both fill doors on the same side. Might be worth looking into.

That's a good point. Maybe I will just move the rearward shock to towards the front with the other one and put a K5 tank in there. It will need the capacity and then there can be fillers on the same side. Thanks for the input.
 
Also, pulled the crew shorty back into the garage to do the front SRW hubs. Looks like it needs ball joints and brakes too. Lucky me...
 
That's a good point. Maybe I will just move the rearward shock to towards the front with the other one and put a K5 tank in there. It will need the capacity and then there can be fillers on the same side. Thanks for the input.

Will you need to move the shocks? The shocks should be on the outside of the frame rail, they don't interfere with the placement of the blazer tank in stock configuration.
 
Will you need to move the shocks? The shocks should be on the outside of the frame rail, they don't interfere with the placement of the blazer tank in stock configuration.
gm 1tons are inboard of frame to clear drw tires on the back . this also lets the leaf packs set in 1" to the frame also .

easy way to spot a gm 1ton in our vintage is king pins for dana 60 front and inboard shocks in back on both styles . and no frame stamp for shock like 1/2 and 3/4 tons .
 
gm 1tons are inboard of frame to clear drw tires on the back . this also lets the leaf packs set in 1" to the frame also .

easy way to spot a gm 1ton in our vintage is king pins for dana 60 front and inboard shocks in back on both styles . and no frame stamp for shock like 1/2 and 3/4 tons .

Gotcha. :thumb:

Is this all C/K30s, or just the dually ones?
 
I was going to do the ball joints, brakes, and SRW rotors today but finding ball joints was a challenge. Ended up getting some Moogs through Summit Racing but it will be a couple of days before they are here. There are a number of things that need to be done still. One of which is the driver's side rocker. Here is a pick of what I have to work with. This side is a touch worse than the other side. I will post "after" pics (hopefully) later today.

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did you check rockauto ? ? ?

I just looked for ya and you would have saved money and saved more with discount code in vendor section .

oh well its just money .
 
did you check rockauto ? ? ?

I just looked for ya and you would have saved money and saved more with discount code in vendor section .

oh well its just money .
Dang, your thrifty. I thought I did good because Summit was cheaper than the local auto parts store. I got free shipping at Summit. Does that make a difference? And it will be here in two days. How does that compare to RockAuto?
 
that's the 1 thing with rockauto some times fast or slow as to the place it ships from .

but shipping is more than fair almost cheep .

boss at work had me get a caliper for a 5500 chevy truck . there return tag price back to cali was under 18 bucks . I cant even do that postal flat rate . . .

great place . . . I use them more and more these days .
 
Started working on the rocker and got it pretty well prepped for some inner rocker patch panel work. Got tired of eating the rust dust when I have a completely rust free crew cab outside. So, I went out and worked on the AZ crew cab and put a CUCV 14BFF, TCI lift springs, and ORD shackles in the back. Seems bass ackwards to go work in the driveway when you have a perfectly good garage but it was a beautiful day for November in New England. Got the majority of it in. Felt good to get that part of the plan accomplished.

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