I was thinking that wire should be unmolested since it would be the same for both the diesel and a gas motor. Hopefully eliminate wiring shenanigans.
CK5
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brokenparts
1/2 ton status
We are all rooting for ya... keep at it.
The wire/ plug that you are holding in the 2nd picture looks like one for the wiper motor to me. Not positive at the moment, but I believe so.
Good point, one of those would be the wiper motor.
On the starter, did you add the cable from the solenoid to the block? I was just reading through the instructions and thought it was interesting that you have to add a cable that goes to the block.
No....what directions say that? The block is grounded, why would the starter need to be grounded?
If yours is the same Powermaster mine. 
I always wonder who reads those directions 
interesting and easy enough to add.....
interesting and easy enough to add.....
I obsess over things. I've often told my father-in-law and brother-in-law that I envy their ability to just jump in a do something and figure it out as they go. I have to research all about something before I'll do it. Part of the reason I found that was because at first I didn't see where the switch wire connected on these starters. I just didn't see the little screw on the top, I was looking for it to be down with the other terminals.
On the flip side I couldn't figure out where that wire went either so I looked for the directions, couldn't find them, cussed a little and then asked google. That little screw is a bitch to get to, you can't get a stubby screwdriver in there.
I should pre-wire that then. I'm planning to do the remote solenoid so there will be a little jumper wire between the battery terminal and the little "S" terminal.
yep do that now. Or put a hex head bolt on the starter that's accessible from the side.
Ooh yeah! Good idea.
If you attach a cable from that solenoid stud you highlighted green to ground, you're gonna be in for a meltdown when you go to crank it.
where do you think it goes then? Odd it says to ground the starter yet there isn't a clear grounding terminal mentioned.
There is no dedicated ground on the starter itself. It grounds through the engine block. Thats why the instructions say to run your ground cable (from battery) to engine block. Then you also want a ground from engine block to frame and engine block to body.
That diagram that says " motor lead" is already factory terminated. It goes from the switched side of the solenoid to the starter motor.
That diagram that says " motor lead" is already factory terminated. It goes from the switched side of the solenoid to the starter motor.
I know that I should tell you in your own thread, but if you do that with a permanent magnet starter, you will get a little bit of starter "run-on".. It's due to the starter motor becoming a generator when you let off of the key. It holds the solenoid pulled in until the RPM of the motor drops low enough for the coil to drop out. I'm talking less than a second.
You can learn to ignore it, or change the excite wire for the starter to parallel the one on the remote solenoid, or find a diode that will take being installed on the starter for the excite wire.
BUT ! I don't remember how Pat showed me to tell when you have a permanent magnet starter by a picture.
Starter wires
Bulkhead
So I get voltage like this from the pink and the pink/black wire with the ignition off.
Then I turn accessory on and get 12.5v. Crank and it drops to 10.5v. Let off and it's at this.
Maybe cleaning the bulkhead connections will solve some of these problems.
Bulkhead
So I get voltage like this from the pink and the pink/black wire with the ignition off.
Then I turn accessory on and get 12.5v. Crank and it drops to 10.5v. Let off and it's at this.
Maybe cleaning the bulkhead connections will solve some of these problems.
Yeah...
