Yep, 1410 42 degree CV with 12" slip.
CK5
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Yep, 1410 42 degree CV with 12" slip.
Time for some dually studs in that front axle.
What did the front do wrong?
Except that's his disk swapped 14 bolt
I used dually studs in mine. Sucked pounding them all back in but worth it.
Except that's his disk swapped 14 bolt
I have a press so it wasn't bad, just redundant.
For the part number I just look at DRW square Chevy? I can go up to 5/8" longer but really only need 3/8"
I've got access to multiple presses but I'm stupid and do it the hard way anyways
I just ordered the same year dually studs from the local napa. So for me it was a 1978 C/K30 dually
I've got access to multiple presses but I'm stupid and do it the hard way anyways
I just ordered the same year dually studs from the local napa. So for me it was a 1978 C/K30 dually
I'll look up the numbers tomorrow and see if I can get the length spec. Last thing I want to do is cut down 16 studs.
Knocked out a mount for the winters shifter. This is somewhat temporary because I plan on making a center console for the triple sticks, shifter, radio etc when the cage is built.
Feel like home?
bought a 4x8 sheet of steel for the skids. First took care of the gas skid.
You're missing a bolt on the front drive shaft flange.
I feel like you get way more done than I do. Nice work! Is the skid plate some of that Domex 100 XF stuff?
I feel like you get way more done than I do. Nice work! Is the skid plate some of that Domex 100 XF stuff?
It was actually missing two bolts in that pic. Not sure why Jesse provides such short bolts, they don't even thread all the way through the flange so I left a couple out so I can buy longer with locking nuts.
And it's just 1/4" steel. No time to source fancy stuff and I think I have it braced well enough. We'll find out.....
Also bought 20' of 2x4 .180 and 20' of 2x2 .180 for sliders.
Heat barrier was also installed under my feet and replaced the cable for the crawl box. I moved the cable entrance into the cab so it's a smoother sweep and away from the exhaust. It's still wrapped just in case....
Two bigger projects left are sliders and belly skid. Need both of those to swing the rubicon run in 7 days......
I have heat shielding on my shifter cables. Never had a problem with the trans shifter cable until I removed a heat shield for the cat that I don't have. Didn't realize it was shielding the cable from the exhaust. Next trail run I melted the cable.
I have heat shielding on my shifter cables. Never had a problem with the trans shifter cable until I removed a heat shield for the cat that I don't have. Didn't realize it was shielding the cable from the exhaust. Next trail run I melted the cable.
I think you warned me about that once before. My reduction box and my trans shifter cable have heat sleeves. The section of exhaust along the trans is also wrapped. It still gets hot down there but hopefully it's manageable. Jon at JB fab said the bare cables need to be 12" from the exhaust.
When mine melted I think it was because the road to the trail had some steep, long grades. It was a windy gravel road so it was really lugging the motor down hard (the old 350) and I can imagine the exhaust temperatures were really high, plus the trans was good and hot too. I'm actually eager to drive that road again with the 454 because I think it will eat it up and ask for a second helping.
The BBC when geared right sure is fun in the mountains. My truck is a whole other animal with the EFI and 5.13's even with a 4" larger tire. I'm a little worried my belly skid will increase temperatures a bit.
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The biggest difference I've found with the 454 is that I can lock up the torque converter when it's pulling a grade. This is great because it really cools the transmission down. The old 350 didn't have the grunt to do that.
I have Napa dually studs in my disc swapped 14 bolt and they are perfect length. My 10 bolt up front has Carquest dually studs and they were too long so I had to remove about 1/4" or so I think after they were already assembled in the truck. I just used a cutoff wheel and rounded the edges with a nut on there and then backed it off to make sure the threads were ok.
I read through a very detailed Billa Vista article and found dorman part number 610-194 is 17/32" longer (3" vs 3 & 17/32") than the OE stud. I'll order those today from summit.
